Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have finally pulled my Powerglide and taken it apart and ready to order the kit. Need help in finding a vender that sales the kit, I called fatsco and they don't have the banana gasket, are there other venders that sales the kit with the banana gasket? and what is the difference?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
I have finally pulled my Powerglide and taken it apart and ready to order the kit. Need help in finding a vender that sales the kit, I called fatsco and they don't have the banana gasket, are there other venders that sales the kit with the banana gasket? and what is the difference?
I don't believe you can find a kit now days with the banana seal , they come with O rings which is OK . Just be carful and use a light grease to hold them in place AND be carful that you align the shifter rod to meet the valve arm (left side ) as you bring the two section to gather or it will not go into gear , and you'll have to take it apart again . Have you don't this before?:anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have not done this before but I have the video that VIPER sent and it really helped me alot, and I also took pictures and drew diagrams of where each bolts goes and taged them, since they sometimes differ. I have seen the kits for sales on ebay with the banana seals but the transmission kit with the banana seal on ebay cost more about 40.00 and up. Thanks for your reply!!!



I don't believe you can find a kit now days with the banana seal , they come with O rings which is OK . Just be carful and use a light grease to hold them in place AND be carful that you align the shifter rod to meet the valve arm (left side ) as you bring the two section to gather or it will not go into gear , and you'll have to take it apart again . Have you don't this before?:anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
I have not done this before but I have the video that VIPER sent and it really helped me alot, and I also took pictures and drew diagrams of where each bolts goes and taged them, since they sometimes differ. I have seen the kits for sales on ebay with the banana seals but the transmission kit with the banana seal on ebay cost more about 40.00 and up. Thanks for your reply!!!
The Video may be the one I made :anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Your video is well spoken of on this site and other sites that im a member. It really saved me alot of time and headaches.... The copy that I have is ok, but do you have a good copy that I can buy from you?
Sorry I dont ,but it covered the simple repairs ,which is simple to do and thanks
[email protected] is my brothern-in-law and he still has some to sell I think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im stuck on the Speedometer drive gear, is there a way around not removing the speedometer drive gear to remove the planetary gear and shaft. I can remove the rear bearing and snap rings and I was wondering if it can be remove towards the front vs removing the speedometer drive gear? If not I'll have to find a tool to pull the speedometer drive gear out towards the rear shaft.


I don't believe you can find a kit now days with the banana seal , they come with O rings which is OK . Just be carful and use a light grease to hold them in place AND be carful that you align the shifter rod to meet the valve arm (left side ) as you bring the two section to gather or it will not go into gear , and you'll have to take it apart again . Have you don't this before?:anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Im stuck on the Speedometer drive gear, is there a way around not removing the speedometer drive gear to remove the planetary gear and shaft. I can remove the rear bearing and snap rings and I was wondering if it can be remove towards the front vs removing the speedometer drive gear? If not I'll have to find a tool to pull the speedometer drive gear out towards the rear shaft.
No you'll have to remove it to get to the rear bearing and pump and remove the planetary gears . Go to a rentel and rent a puller:anim_25:

Why are you even taking it out 99% of the time it will be OK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The reason is to replace the seals and O rings - The problem I was having was that it won't go into high gear only low and then goes into neutral after 25 mph and then I have to shift it back to low to continue to drive. Like you mentioned in the video it was the clutch plates they were all worn only 1 had friction and the rest were down to the metal and the pieces were all scattered in the drum. I cleaned it all out. Thanks, I might just leave it it as is then. I though noticed that the reverse low servo piston had alot of metal like mud outside the ring from worn metal and I had to cleaned it all out, does this mean I have to replace the rings which means I have to remove the planet gears, to get to the reverse low servo piston and ring?


No you'll have to remove it to get to the rear bearing and pump and remove the planetary gears . Go to a rentel and rent a puller:anim_25:

Why are you even taking it out 99% of the time it will be OK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
The reason is to replace the seals and O rings - The problem I was having was that it won't go into high gear only low and then goes into neutral after 25 mph and then I have to shift it back to low to continue to drive. Like you mentioned in the video it was the clutch plates they were all worn only 1 had friction and the rest were down to the metal and the pieces were all scattered in the drum. I cleaned it all out. Thanks, I might just leave it it as is then. I though noticed that the reverse low servo piston had alot of metal like mud outside the ring from worn metal and I had to cleaned it all out, does this mean I have to replace the rings which means I have to remove the planet gears, to get to the reverse low servo piston and ring?
You can remove the low servo large piston ring with out removing the planetary if you wont. Use a piston ring clamp to reinstall like putting a piston back in a block ( just pull the servo piston out a little to remove and replace the ring.)
The clutch drum is drive only (D) low and reverse is like a stick shift trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Im stuck on the Speedometer drive gear, is there a way around not removing the speedometer drive gear to remove the planetary gear and shaft. I can remove the rear bearing and snap rings and I was wondering if it can be remove towards the front vs removing the speedometer drive gear? If not I'll have to find a tool to pull the speedometer drive gear out towards the rear shaft.
The speedo gear on the shaft can easily be removed by using a sharp punch or chisel and tapping with a hammer. tap on the side of the gear next to the shaft, and avoid touching the threads of the gear. notice where it is on the shaft. to re-install, just use a punch and tap it back on. no need for a puller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Low/Reverse servo adjustments

The book says to tighten the screws and back off 4 complete turns. Else where they say 2 1/2 back, some say 3 im lost? I'll probably go with the book adjustments or does anyone disagree?


This is for a CI powerglide automatic 235 ci.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
The book says to tighten the screws and back off 4 complete turns. Else where they say 2 1/2 back, some say 3 im lost? I'll probably go with the book adjustments or does anyone disagree?


This is for a CI powerglide automatic 235 ci.
The more you back off the band screw the longer the band takes to stop the direct drum , I set it at two turns.:anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Reverse servo

Can I replace the ring on the reverse servo without pulling the planetary gear out, and if I can I know I have to pull out the reverse piston just enough to remove the ring, I have tried to pull it out with no success, this is without pulling the planetary gear out? It is almost all the way in the bore.


You can remove the low servo large piston ring with out removing the planetary if you wont. Use a piston ring clamp to reinstall like putting a piston back in a block ( just pull the servo piston out a little to remove and replace the ring.)
The clutch drum is drive only (D) low and reverse is like a stick shift trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,185 Posts
You can pry the old seals out with a large screwdriver but I prefer to collapse them inward with a small chisel then remove them.
Here are some pointers on rebuilding a CI Powerglide:
You probably won’t be able to find a banana gasket. Use Vaseline to hold the O-rings in place. The O-rings will work just fine.

I made this tool to remove the clutch spring snap ring from a harmonic balancer puller and some bolts and nuts.




It works great. I used a press to collapse the spring but a one foot piece of “all thread” down through the middle with some large washers and nuts on the ends should work if you don’t have a press.

Make sure that all the sliding valves in the valve body slide easy in their bores. This includes the closed throttle downshift cushion valve and the forced cushion downshift valve. Over tightening the valve body bolts will also cause the valves to bind. Use a torque wrench and tighten the valve body bolts to no more than 90-120 inch pounds.

In the video the low brake band anchor strut is installed upside down and the apply strut is installed upside down and backwards. This is how the struts should be installed:



Check the adjustment of the reverse band by measuring the travel of the reverse servo piston. When the reverse band is correct you should have 3/16” piston travel.



I back off the low band adjustment 4 turns. ;)
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top