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HOW HAVE YOU LOWERED YOUR TRIFIVE?

  • Heat The Coils?

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • Cut One Or More Coil?

    Votes: 29 19.9%
  • Clamp The Coil?

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Lowering Coils?

    Votes: 27 18.5%
  • Dropped Spindels?

    Votes: 97 66.4%
  • Air Bags?

    Votes: 4 2.7%
  • Other?

    Votes: 12 8.2%
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There are several ways to lower the front of a trifive... I have 2 inch dropped spindles on my 56... Back in the day some of the guys would heat their coils with a torch and have some of their buddies sit on the front fender until the springs cooled... Others have cut their coils or installed lowering springs for the desired effect... I can remember seeing adds in catalogs for spring clamps to clamp the springs but I don't remember ever seeing that setup on a car... Air bags are also another option... On an earlier poll (IS YOUR NOSE IN THE AIR?) I asked our members how they liked the front to sit... Raised, lowered or stock and it seems most like the front lowered... I AM NOT RECOMENDING HEATING THE COILS... I am only asking people how they have lowered theirs and in the past some people have heated them...
 

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It depends on how much of a drop you want. Obviously airbags can put the front end wherever you want it, but they're fairly expensive. If you want less than 2" drop, I would go with cut coils. If you want a 2" drop, dropped spindles to maintain suspension travel. More than 2" up to about 3", dropped spindles for sure, plus cut coils.


Or you can get the whole thing at once (plus more) with a 3" dropped C4 suspension. :)

There's not one thing wrong with cut coils up to a point. I wouldn't heat them, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:eek: :eek: I can't believe you even put heat the coils as an option Dave.
I am just trying to be honest... I never said heating the coils was a GOOD idea but it is the way some people have done it in the past and I wondered if it is still being done:confused0006: Later, Dave
 

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I AGREE

I agree take the heating coils off the list. Dangerous and unpredictable as to handling!! Will they break where you heated them?? Will your kids be in the car when they break?? No Thanks. Dropped spindles aren't that expensive. You can get them as part of a package when you add disc brakes, which are a must have when doing any driving on today's Interstate highways.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree take the heating coils off the list. Dangerous and unpredictable as to handling!! Will they break where you heated them?? Will your kids be in the car when they break?? No Thanks. Dropped spindles aren't that expensive. You can get them as part of a package when you add disc brakes, which are a must have when doing any driving on today's Interstate highways.:rolleyes:
I am not recomending heating the coils I am only asking by what means have you lowered them...
 

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I don't think heating the coils is going to cause them to break. The problem is it will probably make them softer in that heated area, and will result in a less predictable drop.
 

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I am not recomending heating the coils I am only asking by what means have you lowered them...
Heated coils front, heated leaf springs rear. Just kidding.:D

I agree with ChevyNut, but be prepared for a stiffer ride with cut coils. Also, I think the ratio is around 1.7:1, meaning a 1" cut = 1.7" drop at wheel. Also, since the springs sit in pockets, top and bottom, a spring whacker should remove a full (360 degree) coil or two. I don't know what kind of drop you get for each coil removed.

With some dropped spindles, like McGaughy's, be prepared for reduced turning radius. If you go the dropped spindle route, it's best to buy a pair that don't lock you in to the 10.5" GM "metric" brakes.

Oh, the answer to your question? None of the above, since my car now sits at stock height. I'm a recovering McGaughy user.
 

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I am just trying to be honest... I never said heating the coils was a GOOD idea but it is the way some people have done it in the past and I wondered if it is still being done:confused0006: Later, Dave
I know Dave. I was just surprised you put it on the list... thats all. :sign0020:
 

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I had an old 51 F**d when I was young, we put blocks of wood under the bumpers and heated the coils till it dropped on them. Man did it set good. It didn't drive too bad and it looked cool.
 

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I had an old 51 F**d when I was young, we put blocks of wood under the bumpers and heated the coils till it dropped on them. Man did it set good. It didn't drive too bad and it looked cool.
Did that to a guy's car in high school shop class, with the teacher's approval!

But by the time I graduated, we were all raising our cars in the front using those twist-in blocks between the coils!

I may be ahead of the curve this time, having just gone to stock spindles & springs.:D
 

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I bought 2" lowering coils and rear leaf springs with all new shocks. So mine now sits 2" lower than stock. Haven't driven enough to know how it drives, but i sure do like the looks of it.
 

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When you cut a coil or more the increase in stiffness of the spring rate is not too much. Most "sporty" type drivers will like it better, along with the better handling both it and lowering provide. ------------------------------------Both spring ends do not have to be in the spring pockets! I have cut 1 1/2 coils off the bottom, it works fine. Remember, after market A arms have flat bottoms and don't have any pockets at all either! They work fine that way too. The pockets are engineering overkill. Many modern cars don't have or need them.
 

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Both spring ends do not have to be in the spring pockets! I have cut 1 1/2 coils off the bottom, it works fine. Remember, after market A arms have flat bottoms and don't have any pockets at all either! They work fine that way too. The pockets are engineering overkill. Many modern cars don't have or need them.
CJ, you may be right, but I'm just a*** retentive.:D

Later model springs are wound so they can sit on a flat surface. (The end coils bend to meet the neighboring coil, and sometimes have "flats" on the ends.

You're also right in saying lower and stiffer equates to better handling, although I prefer to do it with compliant springs, sways bars, and shocks with adjustable damping. Speaking of which, now that my car has QA1 shocks on the back, the front shocks (fairly new KYB Gas-a-just) seem really bad!
 

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With some dropped spindles, like McGaughy's, be prepared for reduced turning radius. If you go the dropped spindle route, it's best to buy a pair that don't lock you in to the 10.5" GM "metric" brakes.

Oh, the answer to your question? None of the above, since my car now sits at stock height. I'm a recovering McGaughy user.
I got a private message from a member asking why I got rid of my old McGaughy spindles, so wanted to post my response here:

The driving force for me was going back to stock ride height front and rear. I ended up using a Wilwood brake kit on the front along with new coil springs.

Also, my metric brakes worked fine with a dual 8" booster and 20" vacuum, but my new (in 2007) 327 has only 15"-16" vacuum so I went to a manual setup, but never could get the brakes to work well.

Regarding turning radius, my McGaughy spindles hit the lower A-arms, so I relieved the spindles a little with a grinder. I have also seen the center link hit the oil pan before full left or full right is reached. This is common with engines that are moved forward (and has nothing to do with the spindles).
 

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I have Moroso front springs with 1 1/2 coils cut out. been on there for years (starting to settle ) Just lowered the rear again by removing a leaf from the springs and redoing the slider mounts. I LOVE the front springs. stock spindles without reduction in steering radius.
 

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Up front I used 2" spindles and cut the lower arm spring pockets out and added a 1" band . 3" total and still have stock springs. Don
 

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Cutting the coils would have been to easy. Just kidding , I didn't want to cut the springs not knowing how many coils to cut out to get the 1" I wanted . Don
 
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