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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started my search for a 55 or 56 in earnest since I sold my last ride. I've looked at hundreds of craigslist and ebay ads. It seems that 20K is a "seperation" point. In other words, there are some really nice rides available north of 20k and some so so stuff under.
I don't mind "sweat equity" and enjoy working on the cars, I just don't want to deal with ANY rust...
Guess my question/comment is, is it possible to find a "rust free" decent car under 20K ?
 

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I've seen some pretty nice 4 doors going for under 20K but they were probably not totally rust free. It will have to have been restored to be rust free or be a very low milage car stored in a humitidy controlled garage for 50+ years to be rust free. Just keep looking. The swap meet in Arlington usually has a "car corral". http://www.southwestswapmeet.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gonna try to make it, but I have a really messed up flight schedule that weekend. Still not sure what time I get back to DFW. May have to go straight from the airport and catch some ZZ's in the parking lot.
 

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"is it possible to find a "rust free" decent car under 20K"

Depends on your idea of "decent". It's possible.

Here's my outlook of $20k cars:

- No rust, older restoration, decent drivetrain but nothing fancy, may need paint or interior work to be nice.
- No rust, nice paint, needs mechanical work, maybe mostly finished but needs some things.
- Looks nice but has rust, but has decent decent drivetrain.

Or other variations, but doubtfully a great car, unless you get lucky.

Lucky at the car corral or typical ad means jumping on a bargain, because others will jump on them too. So be early and don't wait when you see a deal. I know this is easier said than done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you check the classifieds on this site? Here's an example -
http://www.trifive.com/classified/showproduct.php?product=3781
Yep, been hitting the classified regular. That's a decent looking buy, bet its long gone though.

Wouldn't mind an "older" resto. I just hate body work. I'm not very good at it and a nice paint job these days is big money.

I'll be patient. I've waited this long. Just trying to get a "grip" on the market price since I know nothing about these cars.
 

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Are you looking for a 4-door or a 2-door? I have a nice nearly rust-free 57 210 4-door for sale for half of what you're looking to spend. Arizona car, 283 PowerPack with a 3-speed manual. Very nice car and an easy resto. PM me if interested, or look in the classifieds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That black 55 is perfect for me. And the price was right.
Thanks guys. I'll just be a hound until I can find the right car for me. I bet there will be some nice rides for sale around Christmas .
I have been checking ebay the last few days. I am amazed at the number of new ones that come up for sale everyday. I'm still a little nervous about spending that much money on something I can only see pictures of. I'm gonna have to look at it in person i'm afraid
 

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In this price range you are going to find both junk and gems. And you probably won't be able to tell from photos. So definitely go look, or get someone here to help you out.
 

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I lucked into my 55 210 4-dr through a friend of a friend.

Generally rust free, paint needs some touch up here and there, small block with a TH350.

Definately a driver, not a trailer queen, been having a lot of fun this summer .. I think I got a decent price @ $10,000.

My wife's price point was about $10,000. My personal point was "no body/frame work" needed.

Check out Craig's List. It's not just for hookers. Well, if you're looking for headers maybe.... Exhaust manifolds.

The key though, is patience. You'll find it.
 

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55s may have an apparent VIN discrepancy if originally titled in Texas because Texas used the engine number on the title up through 1955, and then switched to the factory VIN # in 1956. The discrepancy that arises is that the car has had another engine put in it, and the owner didn't have the VIN changed when that happened. It is not too hard to get it straightened out, but for a buyer it's much easier if the seller has already done that little bit of homework.
 

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Roland, that's why I said the seller should take care of that. What I didn't say is he needs to take care of it before he puts it on the market.

It's something a seller should take care of, just like he'd wash the car before you came to look at it. A car without good paperwork is not something you should never buy, but one like that should carry an appropriate discount if the buyer has to take care of it, especially if he's from out of state.

Myself, I might consider a project car like that, but never a car that's running and allegedly worth more. You just can't take that risk unless it's not worth much or carries a big discount.
 
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