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Discussion Starter #22
Geez, all this and you essentially just made your kit into a Chevelle rotor kit, which is 7/8" AND clears original 15" wheels. Chevelle rotor kit would have been safer without spacers and less money too. Bad bearings, crooked brackets, my God.
Some of my club buddies suggested this going in, but others convinced me that this CPP kit was the way to go for the lowest offset. I got close to what I wanted to begin with, and feel safe with 1/4 inch steel spacers, machined to be a close fit.

One of the guys, who's been messing with Chevys since forever, warned me that no matter what I did, it was going to be a crap shoot, and I'd have to fix and/or change something with plenty of experimentation thrown in. I just got caught up in all the "bolts right on" poopie-cacca. :p3:
 

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Geez, all this and you essentially just made your kit into a Chevelle rotor kit, which is 7/8" AND clears original 15" wheels. Chevelle rotor kit would have been safer without spacers and less money too. Bad bearings, crooked brackets, my God.

Its a nice day outside AGAIN nunu! You should go work on your car! :sign0020:

As for clearance with 15" wheels the only kit I have ever seen clear stock wheels is the old style 10.5" drop spindle brake kits and even that was VERY close to the rivet in the wheel.
 

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Its a nice day outside AGAIN nunu! You should go work on your car! :sign0020:

As for clearance with 15" wheels the only kit I have ever seen clear stock wheels is the old style 10.5" drop spindle brake kits and even that was VERY close to the rivet in the wheel.
You should spend more time working on these cars. The 11" Chevelle rotor kit clears 15" original wheels, I would have thought you would know this, but then maybe not.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
calipers and rotors installed

Because I promised to report when I was "done," and because someone might still be interested, here's the last update to this long thread and probably the last for awhile from me.

The problem with the pads seeming to be not parallel to the rotor face was changed by just taking off the caliper support bracket and scraping down the mating surfaces with a pocket knife. There's a tiny amount of friction now, but not enough to worry about. I expect it to go away quickly after a couple of stops. So I was alarmed over something that turned out to be insignificant.

There is another little irritation in design: the stainless flex line attaches to the caliper next to the lower float pin. To get a wrench on the float pin to change the pads, one has to set the banjo fitting perpendicular to the frame, causing the line to rub on the frame when turning. If the fitting points to rear, the line is free to move without rubbing, but would have to be loosened every time you change the pads. So I just clamped some split rubber hose over the line in the spot that will rub. The other option would be to turn the banjo fitting so that it points toward the front of the car, but then the line would be close to the a-arms and the spring, and worse, the turning action would encourage the banjo fitting to work loose. Am I missing something here?

Finally, I "discovered" something the rest of you probably already know, but maybe not. Apparently the '56 15 inch rims were welded, and the '55 15 inch rims were riveted. What rubs on the caliper is not the rivets, but the edge of four protrusions on the inner piece where it is riveted or welded. And these protrusions are not as long on the one riveted wheel that I have. All the others (5) came with my '56, and they all clear now by 1/16 of an inch. The riveted rim clears by about 1/8th.

Cheers and thanks, everyone. I'll start another thread when I get to the booster and master cylinder.

David:shakehands:

ps The 1/4 inch steel spacers cost $120 to have machined, but they fit like gloves.
 

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Welcome to the world of SUPPOSEDLY bolt on after market products brother :sign0020:

I feel your pain my friend, 1 year later i just about have everything taken care of, or working properly on my supposedly bolt on 2" drop spindles kit with disc brakes and a 8" dual brake booster & master cylinder kit from Performance On Line. The last problem I have had is the booster is faulty (they have sent me a second one with the same exact problem) and does not return the brake pedal the last half of a inch to turn off the brake light switch. So after a year of going round & round with P.O.L. , i finally just installed a in line pressure switch on the brake line to turn on & off my brake lights. I will run the booster until it finally takes a crap, and then i will use it for target practice for my 357 and buy a new one from a better manufacture like CPP or Heits.

Needles to say i have also replaced the Chinese version of wheel bearings, races & brake pads on 57 within the first 500 hundred miles with the P.O.L. kit

If you get bored, here is some reading material for ya, and you can see the frustrations i have gone threw also, trust me when i say you are not the only having issues with the supposedly bolt on after market world.. :sign0020:
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65766

Well out to the garage to change out my leaky transmision pan with a new one i just purchased from Summit Racing, we will see if my SUPPOSEDLY new tranny pan leaks just as bad as my old one :sign0020:

:anim_25:

Rick
Hello

I have problems with my booster too,brake pedel will not go back all way.
Its from CPP 8".
Have any one some solution for that problem?
 

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Ccp front disk kit

I just discovered that I, m not the only one having trouble with the ccp front power brakes. Ibought my 57 150 sedan about 2 months ago. It just driver quality and I opted out of a frame off resto and just wanted to make the car more drivable . When I asked a mechanic what brake kit to get he said ccp. So i got the kit and had it installed. All I did was drive it home and notice the brake lights didn, t turn off. SO Iadjusted the brake light switch so I t does turn off.Yesterday I took the car to get some new tires. ON the way I felt something draging. I thought maybe the e brake was stuck. But at the tire store the said it was the front brakes wich are brand new stuck on half way and not releasing. Also they said the brakes were getting incredably hot. I asked them to fix it but they don, t work on any thing after market or modified. Corporate policy. So I drove the car home about ten miles. And half way there the front brakes were smoking. When I arrived home. I tried to touch one of the disks but I couldn, t put my hand on it , It was like touching the burner on a stove. There was also a foul burning smell. The car is now undrivable and the brake lights are now stuck on again . I miss my old drum brakes they were better . Tomorrow I, m gonna give that mechanic and CCP a piece of my mind.
 

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Couple of possibilities going on here. When you said you got a kit do you mean master and booster along with brakes or just one or the other? Just rough guess but it sounds like maybe the vacuum is holding the brakes on, one causing the brake pedal to suck in and get th brake lights on and causing the pads to contact the rotors. I would try to drive it without the vacuum line hooked to the booster with the vacuum line plugged. See if the brake lights stay on, if it does then its probably something else. Check back after that.
 

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I just discovered that I, m not the only one having trouble with the ccp front power brakes. Ibought my 57 150 sedan about 2 months ago. It just driver quality and I opted out of a frame off resto and just wanted to make the car more drivable . When I asked a mechanic what brake kit to get he said ccp. So i got the kit and had it installed. All I did was drive it home and notice the brake lights didn, t turn off. SO Iadjusted the brake light switch so I t does turn off.Yesterday I took the car to get some new tires. ON the way I felt something draging. I thought maybe the e brake was stuck. But at the tire store the said it was the front brakes wich are brand new stuck on half way and not releasing. Also they said the brakes were getting incredably hot. I asked them to fix it but they don, t work on any thing after market or modified. Corporate policy. So I drove the car home about ten miles. And half way there the front brakes were smoking. When I arrived home. I tried to touch one of the disks but I couldn, t put my hand on it , It was like touching the burner on a stove. There was also a foul burning smell. The car is now undrivable and the brake lights are now stuck on again . I miss my old drum brakes they were better . Tomorrow I, m gonna give that mechanic and CCP a piece of my mind.
Call me at 800-522-5004 and I would be happy to go over a few things with you on your kit.
 

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[QUOTE

I wish I had discovered this forum seven years ago. I really feel for the guys out in farm country in the midwest, who might have to drive several hours to get to a parts or hardware store, and who depend on mail order service. Today, in the space of a few hours, and within 3 miles of my house, I did all of the above, plus getting one of my club buddies (retired sheet metal worker) to come over and take a look. I live in Sonoma County, in Northern Calif, and I'll bet there is a higher concentration of old car activity here than almost anywhere else in the country. .

David[/QUOTE]


David, thank your lucky stars you don't live in rural Alaska like I do, I have to have everything shipped up here and man can that get expensive. Often I order a $100-$200 part and the shipping is nearly equal to the purchase price.

Although I cant prove it I swear when a vendor sees the Alaska address they pick and choose the crappiest parts they have on the shelf and ship them knowing I probably won't return them because of the cost involved.

Also gets me is when they say WILL NOT SHIP TO ALASKA like I live in some foreign country.

Another one that gets me is a vendor will ship something all the way across the lower 48, coast to coast for free, but when I ask to them to deduct said cost from what they want to charge me to ship something up here all I get is we can't do that.

Ok I'm done venting.... I love Alaska, even our short cruising season.

Todd
 

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Ok, I'm really late to this party but in the interest of helping...I bought a 57 Chevy Disc Brake Conversion Kit from SSB around the time this thread was started - Unfortunately, they are GONE (2019) - I had no problems with their kit. I did get a list of the parts they used for just such an emergency, thankfully. I do not know if it extended the front tire track width nor do I care. It aligned well. The only "problem" was replacing the calipers with parts store calipers - I had to grind off a ridge on the top of the caliper.I have aluminum 14" wheels (OutlawII)

There conversion parts kit consists of -
Caliper and Rotor- 72 Chevelle

Seal Victor 46409

Pads 69-81 (Hawk -Delta 52

Hoses 69-71 Camaro

Bearings NA I assume they are the standard Chevrolet Chevelle bearings.
 

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I also see how old this thread on the CPP 0 offset disc brake kit is just happened to run across it I bought this same kit in October of 2016 when I first bought my 56 hardtop the install was easy except for one problem junk bearings same problem inner bearing would not seat against the spindle replaced all with timken bearings problem solved but I contacted CPP explained what I found the fix & was told that they hadn’t ran into that problem before that’s is what really upsets me that they would continue to sell a product for that long a period without fixing a simple problem that might cost them a few dollars more for quality bearings This is the kind of problem that could cause someone to be seriously hurt if the person installing didn’t catch it I’ve bought lots of parts from CPP & will continue to but problems like this need to be addressed when they are pointed out & im sure I wasn’t the first to let CPP know the concern
 

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LOL, they have a prepared answer to ever issue, “we have not seen that before” Every issue I have ever had that’s what they said.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm having issues with my CPP supposedly "bolt on" kit too on my 57. I too don't want the offset out either.

I had an older CPP bracket kit for 55-57 Chevy stock spindles laying around. So I ordered the 2700 kit that did not have the brackets or a master cylinder/booster. That did not fit at all. So my parts guy talked to CPP for the right bracket kit for my car and I bought the 5564DBK-V2 supposedly "2nd version" bracket but ended up being the EXACT SAME BRACKET AS I HAD. Now I'm stuck with a car without brakes.

Anyone have this issue too?
 
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