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Project "Return To Tubby's": Dave's '57 2dr Sedan Resto-Mod

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Project "Return To Tubby's": Dave's '57 2dr Sedan Resto-Mod Build

I named this build, Return To Tubby's, because as many of you trifivers may know, Project X was featured in the movie The Hollywood Knights. Back in the day, I had seen that car in Hot Rod magazine a few times, but when I saw it roll into Tubby's Drive-In, with the sound of the blower whine, and the general look of it, I was instantly hooked on '57's. That movie came out the year I graduated from high school. Full disclosure, I was a Mopar guy for most of my life, so those are the cars that I had built. My last project was something entirely different, a custom, ground-up build of a 1989 Jeep Wrangler. My wife said that was my last project car, no ifs, ands, or buts about it. Well, to be honest, I couldn't leave this Earth with a Jeep as my last build. I needed to make the last build a classic hot rod. So, I wore down the wife and she finally gave me permission to do one last project. She's a Chevy gal, so convincing her to build a '57 Chevy wasn't too difficult. The only caveat was, I had to sell the Jeep to help fund the '57 build. No problem, since I needed the garage space for the '57 anyway. I immediately put the Jeep up for sale, and began my search for a suitable '57 roller.
I didn't want to buy a complete running car for three reasons. One, it would cost more. Two, I would be paying for a bunch of parts that I would be replacing anyway. And three, generally speaking, a stripped down body is much easier to inspect for rust issues.
I found this roller on craigslist. Compared to a pair of rust bucket '57's that one shady character had outright lied to me about regarding their condition, this one is incredibly solid, with zero rot. Here's the back story on it:

It lived almost all of its life in Alabama. It has 80,006 original miles. It was built in Flint, MI. It orignally was painted Sierra Gold with Adobe Beige roof. It had the Delray interior with imitation leather upholstery in tan and copper. The gentleman who sold it to me had tried many times over the years to buy the car from an old lady that owned it and drove it just twice a week, but she didn't want to part with it. Somehow, several years later, the car landed in a restoration shop in Chattanooga, TN. While it was there, the body was put on a rotisserie, had new floor pans installed, and the body was blocked straight and given a coat of black epoxy primer. The frame and suspension parts appear to have been media blasted, epoxy primed and painted, and new bushings and ball joints installed. However, in the middle of this restoration work, the shop went belly up for unknown reasons. The contents of the business were auctioned off, and the seller was finally able to buy the car he wanted so badly, and its parts. He kept it for about a year, and eventually realized that he didn't have the time to work on and finish the '57, so he put it up for sale. I purchased the car, all of the parts, plus the rotisserie that it was on, for $7,500.

The basic build theme is to restore the exterior to original. The interior will be mostly original, except the front bench seat will be replaced with a pair of bucket seats from a '63 Pontiac Grand Prix, and a Lokar automatic shifter living between them. Underneath will be a 480HP LS3 crate engine, rebuilt 4L80E automatic with a 3,000 stall converter, and 9" Ford rear with 4.11 gears...because, "with 4.11 gears, she can really get lost!" :)

This is my first tri-five build, which means I've got a steep learning curve, but I'm up to the challenge. I really enjoy the build process. When I was a kid, I loved building models, and this is just a big model to me. I'll be asking lots of questions from you guys as the build progresses. So, with that said......let the fun begin!!

How she sits at the moment.









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Whoa! That looks awesome!!
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Dave your interior looks awesome, great color combo. You have done a great job building this 57.
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looks awesome but I am worried about the headliner wrapping around the rear window flange. I have tried that in the past and it caused huge fitment issues for the back glass and trim. it is supposed top be on a tack strip just inside the window flange. Love the color combo and textures. and its not to busy, jus clean and classy
Thanks for pointing that out, John. I don't think he put a tack strip there. Its my understanding (not stating fact here) that the rear edge of a factory '57 headliner has a strip of cardboard attached to it, and that gets tucked behind the rubber "flap" on the rear window gasket. I also have a '55 sedan rear window gasket that I can use. My interior guy can stop by my house in a couple weeks, so I'll explain the situation to him then, and see what he comes up with. Until then, thoughts, anyone?
Thanks to all for the positive comments. All credit for the interior goes to David Leon at Tops Inc. in Palm Bay, FL.
Thanks for pointing that out, John. I don't think he put a tack strip there. Its my understanding (not stating fact here) that the rear edge of a factory '57 headliner has a strip of cardboard attached to it, and that gets tucked behind the rubber "flap" on the rear window gasket. I also have a '55 sedan rear window gasket that I can use. My interior guy can stop by my house in a couple weeks, so I'll explain the situation to him then, and see what he comes up with. Until then, thoughts, anyone?
that is correct stock 57 has the cardboard strip sewn in and hooks to the roof line on tabs just in front of the window and the edge is covered by the secondary rubber flap on the window rubber.
On a 55 there is a tack strip just inside the rear window opening and also a 3 piece garnish molding to finish off the edge.
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That interior is "spot on" and the two-tone is just the right touch. Awesome job by the stitcher.
On another note - what happened to the enclosed trailer for the ride home? Juss Curious.
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That interior is "spot on" and the two-tone is just the right touch. Awesome job by the stitcher.
On another note - what happened to the enclosed trailer for the ride home? Juss Curious.
Thanks! My buddy with the enclosed trailer had a problem with the high pressure fuel pump on his 2019 Dodge Ram diesel pickup, and he was nervous about taking a long trip with it, so, the enclosed trailer ride didn't happen. I had to go to Plan B and rent a U-Haul car trailer. Everything worked out fine, though.
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Until then, thoughts, anyone?
Dave - since you asked after John pointed out the rear glass / headliner issue and no one has offered it up, let me suggest treating the issue like a '55. It is an elegant (but fidgety to retrofit) alternative to the '56-'57 headliner/glass transition. I did this on my last '56 2-dr Bel Air in which the PO had unknowingly used a '55 seal with a '56 headliner (I'm confident he had no clue about the differences, and whoever installed them did not either). Source the 3 pieces of trim from a '55 2-dr sedan (I don't know for sure if 4-dr trim is the same - ?) as mentioned, 2 sides/one upper. Since your headliner is already secured (I assume glued in place) you may be able to skip the worst part of this process - making/installing the tack strip...lucky you. Skip to the next paragraph. If not, you will have to make/install the appropriate tack strip for the sides and roof area - this is best done with the trim in hand and the glass seal sitting in its proper place - this allows the trim to 'sit' correctly along crevis of the rubber seal and where the headliner rests near the underside of the roof. The tack strip will live in that void. It will have to be put in sections between the screw holes and their respective 'bracketry' that also help properly place the trim in the crevis just mentioned. Since you do not yet have the glass installed you'll have much better access. How to attach the strip sections is an issue, as well as what to make them from. This choice is also determined by how you secure the strip to the metal. I had and considered the thin/narrow plastic strip commonly sold by vendors, but didn't feel it fit well in the profile and it did not stick well with the adhesive I used. It may be 'back-woodsy' but I trimmed/shaped pieces of some rubber sheet I had laying around (from an old pickup bed mat - about 5/16" thick) and glued them in with J-B Weld. I'm sure there may be other solutions, but this worked perfectly and is still holding 5 years later.

Drilling the holes for the trim is an issue, but made easier without the glass installed. With the rubber glass seal in place, seat the trim across the upper side. It should easily sit against the rubber seal and the underside of the roof where the headliner rests. Make sure it is centered. Using the screw holes as a guide, mark the screw holes - you may have to trim the headliner slightly in that area so the bit and the screw don't try to wrap it up. If you do this correctly there is no chance of running a hole through your beautifully painted roof - the bit and screws will be roughly parallel to the roof skin. Again, I did it with the glass in place, and although I had a sore neck for a couple of days there were no issues. You'll need to do the same for the side trim. They will mate up to the ends of each side of the center piece. You may also need to make sail panels for the area between the side trim and the quarter window trim if your upholsterer didn't already do so - they are held in place by the trim and no big deal to make...cardboard and some headliner material. Paint the trim, install the back glass, use appropriate length trim screws you may have left over from the glass molding screw kit - and you'll have a classier looking rear glass surround than what they were putting out at the factory.
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Absolutely badass brother!

Beautiful!
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Dave - since you asked after John pointed out the rear glass / headliner issue and no one has offered it up, let me suggest treating the issue like a '55. It is an elegant (but fidgety to retrofit) alternative to the '56-'57 headliner/glass transition. I did this on my last '56 2-dr Bel Air in which the PO had unknowingly used a '55 seal with a '56 headliner (I'm confident he had no clue about the differences, and whoever installed them did not either). Source the 3 pieces of trim from a '55 2-dr sedan (I don't know for sure if 4-dr trim is the same - ?) as mentioned, 2 sides/one upper. Since your headliner is already secured (I assume glued in place) you may be able to skip the worst part of this process - making/installing the tack strip...lucky you. Skip to the next paragraph. If not, you will have to make/install the appropriate tack strip for the sides and roof area - this is best done with the trim in hand and the glass seal sitting in its proper place - this allows the trim to 'sit' correctly along crevis of the rubber seal and where the headliner rests near the underside of the roof. The tack strip will live in that void. It will have to be put in sections between the screw holes and their respective 'bracketry' that also help properly place the trim in the crevis just mentioned. Since you do not yet have the glass installed you'll have much better access. How to attach the strip sections is an issue, as well as what to make them from. This choice is also determined by how you secure the strip to the metal. I had and considered the thin/narrow plastic strip commonly sold by vendors, but didn't feel it fit well in the profile and it did not stick well with the adhesive I used. It may be 'back-woodsy' but I trimmed/shaped pieces of some rubber sheet I had laying around (from an old pickup bed mat - about 5/16" thick) and glued them in with J-B Weld. I'm sure there may be other solutions, but this worked perfectly and is still holding 5 years later.

Drilling the holes for the trim is an issue, but made easier without the glass installed. With the rubber glass seal in place, seat the trim across the upper side. It should easily sit against the rubber seal and the underside of the roof where the headliner rests. Make sure it is centered. Using the screw holes as a guide, mark the screw holes - you may have to trim the headliner slightly in that area so the bit and the screw don't try to wrap it up. If you do this correctly there is no chance of running a hole through your beautifully painted roof - the bit and screws will be roughly parallel to the roof skin. Again, I did it with the glass in place, and although I had a sore neck for a couple of days there were no issues. You'll need to do the same for the side trim. They will mate up to the ends of each side of the center piece. You may also need to make sail panels for the area between the side trim and the quarter window trim if your upholsterer didn't already do so - they are held in place by the trim and no big deal to make...cardboard and some headliner material. Paint the trim, install the back glass, use appropriate length trim screws you may have left over from the glass molding screw kit - and you'll have a classier looking rear glass surround than what they were putting out at the factory.
Thank you for that write up! You are correct, the headliner is glued in place.
I happen to have a 3 piece set of '55 sedan rear window trim, painted and ready to install. I already installed the '55 sedan gasket on the rear window, but I'll pull the gasket off the glass, and temporarily put it in place.
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Dave, This interior looks amazing. So happy it is what you want and turned out so well. Looking forward to possibly seeing the car my next trip to Florida. Take care and thanks for all your help on my build.
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Thank you for that write up! You are correct, the headliner is glued in place.
I happen to have a 3 piece set of '55 sedan rear window trim, painted and ready to install. I already installed the '55 sedan gasket on the rear window, but I'll pull the gasket off the glass, and temporarily put it in place.
the problem is the headliner is glued in the wrong place. it will cause huge issues with window and outside trim fitment. it should be glued to the roof substructure just in front of the window flange. No trifive from gm ever had the headliner glued to the window flange. I tried this once and it was a total disaster when I went to put in the window and trim.
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it should be glued to the roof substructure just in front of the window flange.
You are quite correct, John. I had assumed that it was glued to that support substructure but also brought around (unnecessarily) to the pinchweld. I should've raised that question. Hopefully so - Dave could then trim that portion away so the seal (and clips) will fully seat. If not and the headliner becomes loose, perhaps his upholstery guy could still restretch and glue it to the substructure (isn't that how some of the late 60's-70's cars had it at the top and sides of the rear glass- no tack strip, just glue?). As long as the material doesn't go beyond where it would sit if stapled where the tack strip would go he should be okay.
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hotrodg726 said:
it should be glued to the roof substructure just in front of the window flange.

You are quite correct, John. I had assumed that it was glued to that support substructure but also brought around (unnecessarily) to the pinchweld. I should've raised that question. Hopefully so - Dave could then trim that portion away so the seal (and clips) will fully seat. If not and the headliner becomes loose, perhaps his upholstery guy could still restretch and glue it to the substructure (isn't that how some of the late 60's-70's cars had it at the top and sides of the rear glass- no tack strip, just glue?). As long as the material doesn't go beyond where it would sit if stapled where the tack strip would go he should be okay.
Thanks, John and Madman. Its like that in the front, too. Well, the interior guy will be coming over in a couple weeks, so while he is here, he can release the headliner and re-glue it in the proper spot then. Shouldn't be too major of an issue for him.
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He can release the headliner and re-glue it in the proper spot then. Shouldn't be too major of an issue for him
Agreed 👍
excellent.
Last week, I spoke with the wife of the interior guy. She runs the day to day operations part of the business, which allows him to focus on building interiors. Anyway, she said that he will be at my house sometime around the end of this month, to reglue the front and rear of the headliner, reposition the 3rd brake light (its too low right now), and he's going to bring his steamer, and use it to remove the wrinkles in the leather.
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Dave, I have finally started back on my build and working on the Eldorado seat brackets. On the seat channel there is a 4" long plate on one side only of each seat. I do not see the purpose for the plate and wondered if I can eliminate it. Do you or anyone else that used these seats recall if they eliminated that plate?
Dave, I have finally started back on my build and working on the Eldorado seat brackets. On the seat channel there is a 4" long plate on one side only of each seat. I do not see the purpose for the plate and wondered if I can eliminate it. Do you or anyone else that used these seats recall if they eliminated that plate?
Check your messages.
3
Earlier this week, I dropped off my '57 at a restoration shop called Iron Stable Garage to get the windshield and rear glass installed. The owner and the guys that work there are good people, and they are as passionate about working on classic cars as I am. They know how to get the job done in a professional manner, and that's exactly the kind of people I want touching my ride. While the car is in their hands, they are going to get the front end aligned for me as well. So, when I get the car back from them, it will be ready to drive!!! Or, at least take those first baby steps around the block!

BEFORE


AFTER


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