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I would suggest you temporarily install the rear springs, and put jack stands under the springs where the rear axle normally sits. This will load the chassis the way it should be regarding both front and rear spring mounts, not just in one place where a jackstand is placed.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the assistance guys, I have taken the car off the chassis trolley and it on axle stands where the wheels would be ( can’t put it on the wheels as I don’t have a diff or spindles atm )
It did help a little but I have still had to put 10mm shims at the back mounting points and still leave out the ones under the rocker and door jamb.
It is almost right but I don’t like the idea of none or cut down body rubbers under the frame.
As you can see it’s almost right but that’s 35mm variation ( inch and a half ) from what the mount should be.
Next it to laser the chassis and see if the ass end is hanging low.
I’ll post once that’s done.
Thanks again for all the help
 

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please try setting the door to rocker gap how does pass door fit can you tell when they put the quarters did they leave the original door jam area
 

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Discussion Starter #25
please try setting the door to rocker gap how does pass door fit can you tell when they put the quarters did they leave the original door jam area
I put on the passenger door and it’s even worse.
They didn’t leave the original jambs.
I put a straight edge on the passenger side after removing the rubbers under the jamb and door and pulling the body down to the chassis. It shows a 4mm ( 1/6 of an inch bow upward where the 1/4 and rocker meet.
I am thinking if I cut the vertical and under side of the rocker to 1/4 join this might relieve some of the pressure and allow it to drop helping the jamb gap.
I’m going to check the chassis this afternoon and see if that is also part of the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #27
the problem may in shape and length of the quarter panel a lot of people leave the orginal jams
I thought the same I measured both sides of the car and they are identical
They could be the wrong shape but no way to tell as both have been replaced as well as the jambs
I have completely unbolted the body from the chassis and as u can see from the picture there is an 8mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) bow where the rocker meets the quarter , this makes me think they didn’t have them aligned properly when they welded them putting a bow in the entire car. ☹
 

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Don't for a minute think that original panels or repro panels are so accurate that lining them up with no "bow" makes for an overall straight body with door openings that fit the doors.

The body should have been supported properly and the door(s) fitted the best possible before cutting the old quarters off. Then the new quarter should have been positioned to match. The rocker to quarter panel profile could then be reworked to remove a "bow" if there was one. It's a secondary issue.

Your driver side issue may still be able to be made to fit without cutting on the panels. Don't know about the passenger side because you haven't supplied as much info. Don't give up on shimming, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Don't for a minute think that original panels or repro panels are so accurate that lining them up with no "bow" makes for an overall straight body with door openings that fit the doors.

The body should have been supported properly and the door(s) fitted the best possible before cutting the old quarters off. Then the new quarter should have been positioned to match. The rocker to quarter panel profile could then be reworked to remove a "bow" if there was one. It's a secondary issue.

Your driver side issue may still be able to be made to fit without cutting on the panels. Don't know about the passenger side because you haven't supplied as much info. Don't give up on shimming, etc.
I agree 100% with what you said about the way they should have been done, the problem is i purchased someone elses unfinished project and by the looks of it the guy who replaced the panels didnt have a clue what he was doing
i have been shimming it all day and tried every way possible to avoid cutting the panels but when the car has been welded with a bow i will need to use house bricks to shim it to get it right :(
Both sides are the same, when there is no pressure on the bodymount bolts the entire body bows up in the middle. I even put 200kg of weight on the centre of each rocker but that didnt help at all
321166

I ran a laser across the chassis and i think that is also contributing to the problem but the body is the main cause
If i go off the factory measurements as shown here https://www.trifive.com/d1/garage/55 Chevy Assembly Manual/2-15.gif then it looks as though my chassis is an inch low at the front and an inch low at the rear
 

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If I understood your post correctly, your frame is bowed up in the middle. Most body shops have good "frame machines", and are experienced in straightening frames for collision work. At this point, I think that is your best option. You may find that the body may not sit right on your newly straight frame, and have to remove welds to it fit the body correctly. Good luck.
 

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You need to support the chassis by the suspension points before trying to fit anything here. The location you have the rear supports under the frame is NOT a good location and will be causing a deflection in the chassis making the body appear high in the middle. These chassis are not as rigid as you might think. Put the rear springs & axle in before you go any further trying to fit any body parts.
 

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i would try pulling it down with the bolt and no mount in place in the onebehind the door it may also help jf you do both sides at same time try shiming the cowel not just the back
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If I understood your post correctly, your frame is bowed up in the middle. Most body shops have good "frame machines", and are experienced in straightening frames for collision work. At this point, I think that is your best option. You may find that the body may not sit right on your newly straight frame, and have to remove welds to it fit the body correctly. Good luck.
I agree, i think i have to make sure the frame is right before doing anything else.
Im pretty sure the frame has a slight bow ( going off the factory assembly dimensions sheet)
I'll find another 55 this week to take some measurements off to compare to.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You need to support the chassis by the suspension points before trying to fit anything here. The location you have the rear supports under the frame is NOT a good location and will be causing a deflection in the chassis making the body appear high in the middle. These chassis are not as rigid as you might think. Put the rear springs & axle in before you go any further trying to fit any body parts.
Trying to chase up a diff to do that before i go any further
 

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Discussion Starter #36
i would try pulling it down with the bolt and no mount in place in the onebehind the door it may also help jf you do both sides at same time try shiming the cowel not just the back
Have tried pulling it down with no rubber mount , helps a little but still way out
Both sides have been done at the same time but .
There is definately an issue with the rocker to quarter welding as you can see in this pic
It looks as though where they have welded the rockers to the quarters on both sides of the car they did not align them properly first, putting a bow in the entire body.
Shimming is no longer an option, i have tried every possible way and i would need to use 4 inch shims at the front and back of the car to even get any where near closing these gaps which then throws everything else on the car out of alignment
I know these chassis and bodys do flex but the moron who replaced these panels should have at least had the brains to weld them in a straight line
 

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Trying to chase up a diff to do that before i go any further
It is essential that the frame is "loaded" onto the rear springs, but I think if you don't have access to a diff, You could simulate the diff by placing jackstands exactly where the diff is located on the leaf springs, at least for a check of the frame being badly bowed. or place a beam such as a 4x4 in the diff location, over jackstands. Make sure everything is level, at least side to side in your garage, so no twist is introduced, Again, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
It is essential that the frame is "loaded" onto the rear springs, but I think if you don't have access to a diff, You could simulate the diff by placing jackstands exactly where the diff is located on the leaf springs, at least for a check of the frame being badly bowed. or place a beam such as a 4x4 in the diff location, over jackstands. Make sure everything is level, at least side to side in your garage, so no twist is introduced, Again, good luck.
I’m going to use a ride tech 4 link rear end , would it be best to support the chassis where the coilovers will mount to the rails ?
 

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try putting a long straight edge on the frame like you on rocker to quarter. you should a similar space. the door to rocker appears to straight along the bottom of the door and not have the bow like rocker in that area.look at the back of rocker does it look like it was welded straight. put a straight edge on the edge of the inner rocker. has the floor been changed or any work done
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Found that the chassis is bent down slightly at the front and rear, not helping the fitment issues.
Going to attempt to straighten the chassis first then deal with the panels.
 
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