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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I finally got around to installing a floor shifter in the wagon and instead of pulling apart the old column to remove the shifter bits, I just bit the bullet and ordered a ididit tilt column.

The wagon has a rack and the current "Intermediate" shaft was a welded up mess, so I am going to replace the parts from column to rack with new pieces.

Will have a splined to 3/4 dd on the rack, with a dd shaft to the item in question.

Should I look for a rag joint or just run another u-joint on the column end? I personally am leaning toward a rag joint, but wanted to hear some other opinions on the matter.
 

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Rag joints are really only for shafts in a straight line. No angles at all. If you have a rack you probably have some kind of angle. Rag joints are better at isolating the hydraulic vibration from coming up the column to the steering wheel. There are u-joints with a vibration isolator built in. That would be the best way to go with a rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ended up buying Borgeson parts from summit. Even with shipping/duty/taxes they were still cheaper then buying local. Which just plain sucks, but it is what it is.

What I can say is holy crap. The difference between the old "Sweet Engineering" and the Borgeson parts is huge.



 

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Good ain't cheap & cheap ain't good.

If you want a cookie cutter car then there are dozens of cpp, ecklers, danchuk catalogs out there.
I prefer to build a little different from mainstream though and these have always worked well.
 

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Then why the Jegs brand and not the name brands listed as alternatives?

Also this deal is listed as "off road only", and they don't mean Hummers and Baja trucks. This thing is very light compared to a Borgeson u-joint.

I had a similar joint on my 1250 lb. dragster with bicycle-like tires. Not sure I'd be comfortable with it on anything else. It is very lightweight.
 

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If you read the spec's on that Jeg's unit posted link it specifically says:

"Steering accessories designed specifically for use with the 1971-72 Pinto style rack and pinion Steering Systems."

That appears to me to be "light duty application only", at least to me??

ken 57
 

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Then why the Jegs brand and not the name brands listed as alternatives?

Also this deal is listed as "off road only", and they don't mean Hummers and Baja trucks. This thing is very light compared to a Borgeson u-joint.

I had a similar joint on my 1250 lb. dragster with bicycle-like tires. Not sure I'd be comfortable with it on anything else. It is very lightweight.
those joints originated in the aircraft industry decades ago and are actually very strong, just not sure I would trust a jegs, summit or no name brand for this.
 

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Rick,
I see you again that you like to follow around and banter anything that I say or contribute on here.
I think we should call these Tri fives by Rick as if it is not your way it is no good.
I just listed that Jegs brand as an example because it was the quickest link I could find since I was on their site already.

Please tell me how quick you have gone in a steel bodied car? That you built, that you tuned?
You are just a clown that is at the end of his life span and has nothing better to do then do look down your nose at anything not suggested by you.
It's probably a good thing you are behind a keyboard as your nose would stay straight from there flapping off at the lips like you do.
 

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Good ain't cheap & cheap ain't good.

If you want a cookie cutter car then there are dozens of cpp, ecklers, danchuk catalogs out there.
I prefer to build a little different from mainstream though and these have always worked well.
Just an honest question but, how do you go about removing one for replacement or in case you have to pull stuff apart for some reason? Do you have to cut the shaft and start over, or do you have a trick to split the joint somehow?

At least the splined or D type joints can be un-bolted. For a street car it seems a better choice to use that type.
 

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Just an honest question but, how do you go about removing one for replacement or in case you have to pull stuff apart for some reason? Do you have to cut the shaft and start over, or do you have a trick to split the joint somehow?

At least the splined or D type joints can be un-bolted. For a street car it seems a better choice to use that type.
We have never had to replace one in 15 years of using them. If you had to replace one I would replace both & the shaft also because it would be damaged not worn out. These will outlast us.
 

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I'll stand behind all I've said.

These joints are bolted to the steering shaft tube with a cross bolt. So taking it apart is a matter of removing the bolt and nut. There's a photo here. https://quartermax.com/apex-joint

Also read the note in the link. "Note: This is a lightweight application that is not designed for circle track, street, or highway use. Total vehicle and driver weight not to exceed 3500 lbs."
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I finally got everything installed, adjusted and not binding anywhere. I have to say, for a "retro fit" model specific steering column, it sure needed a lot of work to make it fit.

For those looking at the ididit column, I had to trim the gauge surround 1/2, so the column would reach the firewall, had to fabricate a lower mount, since there wasn't one included in the kit. Fabicate a horn contact as the one included was for an aftermarket steering wheel. Drill out the stock steering wheel so the turn signals would properly cancel. Doing this will make it a huge PITA to pull that steering wheel now since the hole you have to drill out, is used by the steering wheel puller to remove the wheel.

So much for model specific.

Overall, I am happy now that its done, but I was not expecting this much work for that column to fit.

Now I need to find a smaller diameter and shallower steering wheel as the tilt pushed the wheel about 2 inches closer to me, and being the original 18 inch steering wheel, its pretty damn close to the body.
 
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