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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been doing some research on Gassers....I realize the best way to raise the front end on a Gasser is with a straight axle....And can find plenty of info doing it that way.....However, because of the cost and other reasons involved, some are just not going to do it...Also, once done, you would be unable to easily swap it back to original.

Saw threads of Dukobluz:http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3300 and http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4751 Also noticed that he has not been on the site for some time (01-01-2010)

What are the Gasser folk's recommendations here for the alternate route? What coils and other hardware are necessary?

 

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Way back in the day David i got a hold of a set of 64 chevy station wagon springs for a 409 with A/C pads. The pads were a rubber ring that fit on the top of the spring to give you a little more height. I installed them on the Nomad when it still had a small block. That lasted one week. The ride was so harsh it made a dump truck feel like a Mercedes. I was at the complete top of my suspension travel and on acceleration, I would hit the stops with a big clunk. It definitely raised the front end but even I had to give in and remove them.
 

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front end

Been doing some research on Gassers....I realize the best way to raise the front end on a Gasser is with a straight axle....And can find plenty of info doing it that way.....However, because of the cost and other reasons involved, some are just not going to do it...Also, once done, you would be unable to easily swap it back to original.

Saw threads of Dukobluz:http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3300 and http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4751 Also noticed that he has not been on the site for some time (01-01-2010)

What are the Gasser folk's recommendations here for the alternate route? What coils and other hardware are necessary?

Pops I had a 56 Nomad, put coil overs on front, had rear leafs "rearched", rode horibly! Installed name brand leaves and stock front shocks, and Nomad rides like NEW! TJN/56NOMAD:gba:
 

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My basket case 55 I bought had some what I thought extra long springs in the front and the metal donuts on top of that too. It was a 70's thing...
 

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Tri five instant gasser lift spindles

I took these spindles off a 57 Nomad that sat for 25 years. They are lift spindles with chevelle single piston disc brakes. I also have a rare Hurst dropped centerlink.



Stewart...Please put your ad in the classifies forum...THANKS 557B210
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like a great way to go....With all the interest in Gassers...I only wish someone would start making a set of raised spindles, like they do lowered ones....Also found this:

Found this:

There Are Only Three Ways to Get the Front End in the Air

There are three methods of hoisting the nose on a straight-axle Gasser: twin parallel leaf springs, a single transverse leaf spring and hairpins, or a pair of coil springs with a four-link and a Panhard. Much of what car guys build is based on what they remember from when they were young. They may have seen a race car with a transverse-mounted spring and so that's what they want, which is fine, but there may be a better setup for their particular car. According to Don, a '55 Chevy should not have transverse-spring setup. Though it was done in the '60s, Don feels the car is too big and heavy for a single center suspension point. The mass of the car should be spread out on dual leaf springs. Don also incorporates a sway bar whenever possible to make the car handle more predictably on the street.
 

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I started out my 57 Gasser build with taller springs and ball joint spacers. The ride was OK but there was no suspension travel at all so it topped out hard! I decided to go the straight axle route using a kit from Speedway Motors. I also decided to keep the original Frame in case I ever decided to go back stock! The ride is greatly improved over the taller coil spring lift as I have good suspension travel. Of course it won't corner like a stock 57 but thats to be expected ( a lifted truck doesn't handle the same as a stock truck either), I am not saying its bad.. Just different! I kept the stock steering box and had to modify the stock steering pitman arm by heating and bending it slightly to allow it to clear the frame. I also cut off the ball at the end of the pitman arm and drilled it to accept a 5/8 inch hardened bolt to attach the Drag Link. I do not have the "Death Wobble" or Bump Steer! The one thing I do plan on Changing is my choice of front tires. I went with the old school look of Bias Ply tires and they follow every rut it the road!!! I am going to switch over to Radials as soon as I can!!!
 

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Every once in a while when I get into the mood, I try another set of front coils on mine. All I want is 1 1/2 to 2 inches of lift. I no longer want the sky high look. I just want a little bit of up-rake.

The problem is that with every taller set of springs I try, I have to compress them SO MUCH with my inside compressor and even then have to fight them to get them in. And this is also with bj spacers. The next and last set I'm going to try is a set of BB Chevelle or Monte Carlo springs. I do have an iron BB in the car. I expect a real battle!

It seems it would be so very much easier and safer to have a set of raised spindles, but the only ones I've found so far are the cobbled, welded type that place the front wheels out too far. I don't like that look.

I've checked out the lowering spindles at swap meets, and some are simply a cast body with a hole drilled higher up to drop the front. Why anyone hasn't offered a set with the axle shaft further DOWN on the body is beyond me. Every email I've sent to the manufacturers has either been ignored, or I get the "not currently" jibe.

Very frustrating.
 

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icody, When you put the radials on, you'll be wondering why you waited so long. The difference is dramatic. Not only does it stop "hunting", following every little groove in the road, the ride is actually "civilized"./al
BTW your 57 is lookin' great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It seems it would be so very much easier and safer to have a set of raised spindles, but the only ones I've found so far are the cobbled, welded type that place the front wheels out too far. I don't like that look.....I've checked out the lowering spindles at swap meets, and some are simply a cast body with a hole drilled higher up to drop the front. Why anyone hasn't offered a set with the axle shaft further DOWN on the body is beyond me. Every email I've sent to the manufacturers has either been ignored, or I get the "not currently" jibe.Very frustrating.
Nad427....I wholeheartedly agree....Many moons ago I aske CCP here on the forums, if they would have any interest in doing just that:http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48429&page=2

Got this reply:
There is no plans on creating one guys sorry. There are companys that make a straight axle conversion. Dont know off hand who but a google search should help.
 

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icody, When you put the radials on, you'll be wondering why you waited so long. The difference is dramatic. Not only does it stop "hunting", following every little groove in the road, the ride is actually "civilized"./al
BTW your 57 is lookin' great!
Thanks Nitrouspro... I would change them out tomorrow except I can't find a tall set of Radials to fit on a 4 1/2 inch rim. i am looking for a 28 inch height. I am running a 30 inch pie-cut slick on the rear and to small a tire height in the front would look strange!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Nitrouspro... I would change them out tomorrow except I can't find a tall set of Radials to fit on a 4 1/2 inch rim. i am looking for a 28 inch height. I am running a 30 inch pie-cut slick on the rear and to small a tire height in the front would look strange!
Cody....How 'bout a VW Bug tire....The OE size was a 5.60-15. The radial conversion is a 165R15...Not sure on the height though....Would these work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-2-NEW-B...0|Rim+Diameter:15&hash=item19defa15fc&vxp=mtr




Your car is lookin' good buddy :):tu
 

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Thanks for the compliment...
The tire will easily fit the rim however its only 24.5 inches tall..thats a 6 inch difference from front to back. I can find lots of radial tires that fit the rim..the issue is getting a radial that is at a minimal is 28 inches tall..the tallest radial i have seen is a 26...ugh. The reason I have not replaced yet is i am going to have to get 4 new tires (2 front an2 rear). Waiting for these to wear out..lol
 

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Thanks for the compliment...
The tire will easily fit the rim however its only 24.5 inches tall..thats a 6 inch difference from front to back. I can find lots of radial tires that fit the rim..the issue is getting a radial that is at a minimal is 28 inches tall..the tallest radial i have seen is a 26...ugh. The reason I have not replaced yet is i am going to have to get 4 new tires (2 front an2 rear). Waiting for these to wear out..lol
Don't know if your concern is really the size difference from front to rear, or if it's that a shorter front might get lost in the front wheelwell, but back in them days the rears were almost always taller than the fronts, sometimes by ALOT. I have 33's rear, and 26's up front. Looks "balanced" that way. HAHA! Looking at your car pic, it looks like it could stand a bit taller of a rear tire, if it'd fit without rubbing anyway.
Dan
 

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Cody I don't know how you feel about Hankook tires but I found some P215X75X15 OPTIMO H724 100S from them that are just short 28 in tall and 5 in tread that worked fine on my 4 in wide Fenton wheels Keith
 

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Thanks z24racer.! I will give them a look tonight! As a matter of fact I just ordered a set..lol..thanks again!
 

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The raised spindle concept is definitely a low cost alternative to a straight axle conversion. However, relocating the hub below the two ball joints creates accelerated wear and quite possibly premature failure to one or both joints. When the engineer's at Chevrolet designed the stock spindles they made them so that lateral forces were excerted equally to each ball joint. With the raised spindle you have relocated the fulcrum point and amplified the effect by raising the center of gravity to the body. Both will work against longevity of these components. Grant you, most guys running these spindles probably take great care turning corners, etc. But its a risk that most manufacturer's who have considered casting them will not take.

The proper way to create this raised concept and retain stock spindles, suspension width and ride would be to have one of the manufacturer's who make tubular A arms today bend a set of uppers and lowers to relocate the spindle point to a given ride height and provide a taller coil spring with the same spring compression rate as stock. It would probably be slightly more expensive than the fabricated spindles you see on Ebay but a whole lot safer. If there's enough interest, it might be competitively priced. Who knows

Just a thought.
 

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The raised spindle concept is definitely a low cost alternative to a straight axle conversion. However, relocating the hub below the two ball joints creates accelerated wear and quite possibly premature failure to one or both joints. When the engineer's at Chevrolet designed the stock spindles they made them so that lateral forces were excerted equally to each ball joint. With the raised spindle you have relocated the fulcrum point and amplified the effect by raising the center of gravity to the body. Both will work against longevity of these components. Grant you, most guys running these spindles probably take great care turning corners, etc. But its a risk that most manufacturer's who have considered casting them will not take.

The proper way to create this raised concept and retain stock spindles, suspension width and ride would be to have one of the manufacturer's who make tubular A arms today bend a set of uppers and lowers to relocate the spindle point to a given ride height and provide a taller coil spring with the same spring compression rate as stock. It would probably be slightly more expensive than the fabricated spindles you see on Ebay but a whole lot safer. If there's enough interest, it might be competitively priced. Who knows

Just a thought.
A set of the a-arms you proposed would be fine with me. It might look a little goofy from the front though. I just wish that a company would look into this deeper and actually try. The responses I've gotten are next to "don't bother me with this".
 
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