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Ok so I am slowly stripping ALL the paint to bare metal and I am noticing there is some surface rust happening. Question is can I use Filler primer rattle cans from the auto parts store on each panel as I finish them. It will be a while before I even think about paint. I am not going for a 100pt show car just a real nice driver and on a fixed budget. Any thoughts or opinions on how to proceed?
 

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A "Real nice driver" car does not have rattle can primer under the paint. The proper way is to use epoxy primer as metal protection and even more important because as you say it will be a long time before you paint.

The way I did it was clean a few parts then spray them using SPI epoxy primer. Next week clean a few more parts, etc.. Yes it's more work but trust me it will pay off in the long run.
 

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I roll my primer.It goes on thick and you have no waste if you only mix what you need.If your local paint store doesn't sell the rollers you can use the 4'' white rollers at Lowes or home depot
 

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Rattle can primer surface does NOT stop rust. It just makes it to where you can't see it until you remove it.

The reason for my statement is that the stuff is porous.

It's also not a good base for any other primer or paint.

If you have bare metal that you want to protect, put epoxy primer over it. Real 2 part epoxy primer like PPG DPLF or SPI, not rattle can "epoxy". If you can't or won't spray it, put it on with a brush or roller. Or if it's a small spot you can use a refillable aerosol can called "Preval". You can get Preval containers at places like Lowes and Home Depot.
 

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I roll my primer.It goes on thick and you have no waste if you only mix what you need.If your local paint store doesn't sell the rollers you can use the 4'' white rollers at Lowes or home depot
Yup! That's a good option. I did that to touch up sand-throughs on a car I did for my wife. It beat having to clean my gun over and over.
 

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I've got a touch-up gun and mix only a few ounces of epoxy primer and shoot on the bare spots as I go. This afternoon I shot two areas less than a square foot each. When I get it all done I will shoot the car and block it.
 

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I roll my primer.It goes on thick and you have no waste if you only mix what you need.If your local paint store doesn't sell the rollers you can use the 4'' white rollers at Lowes or home depot
Agreed. If you have no compressor, roll it on.
 

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Compressor, putty gun, priming gun, top coat gun it all adds up and you`ll more than like use it once or twice.

If you can team up with someone in order to get it done right that may be another option :anim_25:
 

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I'm not sure if I read all the "roll it on" replies thoroughly, but what you're looking for are FOAM rollers, not house paint rollers with nap.
 

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I used this epoxy on a bare dash and its held up well - didn't want to mix up a lot of paint - and this is 2 component. I used up the whole can so can't vouch for the pot life:
http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-e...=40408681047&gclid=CNq9-q6_sLcCFeZ_QgodyBMAkw
"2K patented aerosol allows you to paint with a two-component paint with no mixing! Spray Max's innovative nozzle and valve technology, combined with its two internal chambers ensure the right ratio is mixed every time. Sprays like a gun, broader spray pattern than conventional aerosols and no mess to clean up. You'll get professional results from an aerosol. Pot life 4 days. 2k rust cure primer in buff has excellent adhesion and corrosion. Can be applied over new and rusty surfaces. Can overcoat with any 1k/2k system. 14.1 oz net weight. Made in Germany."

And a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDvzY5FnsHI&feature=player_embedded
 

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Rattle Can Primer

Ok so I am slowly stripping ALL the paint to bare metal and I am noticing there is some surface rust happening. Question is can I use Filler primer rattle cans from the auto parts store on each panel as I finish them. It will be a while before I even think about paint. I am not going for a 100pt show car just a real nice driver and on a fixed budget. Any thoughts or opinions on how to proceed?
it's your car and you do what you want. If someone wants to buy you a gallon of epoxy and a spray rig then accept it
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Epoxy it will be then, I will probably do the rolling process since my only compressor is just a smalll pancake one and I doubt that would cut it for spraying. I may try that that Eastwood Spray Max too, but I saw Eastwood also has a black Epoxy primer and since it will be in primer stage for a while that would look kind od cool to see it in a dark color,
 

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A "Real nice driver" car does not have rattle can primer under the paint. The proper way is to use epoxy primer as metal protection and even more important because as you say it will be a long time before you paint.

The way I did it was clean a few parts then spray them using SPI epoxy primer. Next week clean a few more parts, etc.. Yes it's more work but trust me it will pay off in the long run.
Not all rattle cans are Krylon, nothing wrong with high end rattle can products.
 

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keeping bare metal, rust free

As you strip the car down wipe each panel with metal prep. It will leave a zinc phosphate film and will stay rust free for a year indoors.Metal prep is a absolute must when stripping a car ,It disolves surface rust. kills the microscopic rust thats not apparent to the naked eye. and will make any paint work last much longer.Mastercoat prep contains zinc. Capt lees works well and Ospho are also great products.
 

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Just what is a "high end rattle can product"? Isn't that an oxymoron?
Rick I had a major malfunction and screwed up the new bedside on one of my 87 GMC 4x4s, I bought a new quality stud welder pulled the dent and filled it. I did not need much primer and did not want to buy a gallon. My friend in the business who has built many high end cars in his 45 years in the business recomended a can of Transtar 2 in 1 #4603. A buddy of mine who is an inspector for a major ins company and former employee of the aformentioned body and paint man was very impressed and has since bought some for personal use. When I took it in for paimting they wiped it down and gave it fresh base clear paint. The job turned out excellent, I have to keep my old stuff looking good and running because new trucks have wimpy front end assemblys.
 
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