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Hi all. Looking to replace the Booster and master cylinder on my 57 Chevy. What would be the best combo to use. I have Disk front, Drum rear. Any thoughts would helpful.

Thanks

Pepe.
 

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I’m running a CPP “Midnight Series” booster, and aluminum master cylinder in my ‘55. Has disks front and rear. Stops really good. Big improvement over manual front disks, rear drums I had before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Not related to a booster and master cylinder, but you might consider replacing the rear shoes with the shoes sold by Muscle Car Brakes. I swapped all four sets of their matrix ceramic shoes on my drum brake car and it made a noticeable improvement in braking.

Also, if you are using the chevelle calipers, member hotrodg726 sorted out some Hawk street pads that are an improvement from over the counter. Hawk HWK-HB103B-590.
 

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Ace - had you originally purchased the booster/master cylinder from CPP, including the firewall mount, then just swapped out the booster for the 9"? And does the documentation with the aluminum master require anything special for brake fluid? JR
 

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Ace - had you originally purchased the booster/master cylinder from CPP, including the firewall mount, then just swapped out the booster for the 9"? And does the documentation with the aluminum master require anything special for brake fluid? JR
The booster and bracket (flat mount) were from East Coast Chevy. No special instructions on brake fluid from CPP. (I'm using DOT4) The 9" DD had same mounting pattern as old booster, so it fit right up. As usual with the flat mount booster, I had to cut/shorten the top mounting studs on the booster.

Ace
 

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I confess I've not noticed any flat mount boosters specifically for tri-fives, but I would sure prefer one. The spacer bracket used to adapt for the original stud mounted master always looked a little clunky to me - but was readily available and worked okay. If the booster mounts flat on the firewall, the original studs would need to be removed and other mount holes drilled... Will have to look into this a little.
JR
 

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I confess I've not noticed any flat mount boosters specifically for tri-fives, but I would sure prefer one. The spacer bracket used to adapt for the original stud mounted master always looked a little clunky to me - but was readily available and worked okay. If the booster mounts flat on the firewall, the original studs would need to be removed and other mount holes drilled... Will have to look into this a little.
JR
JR, just wanted to be clear....my brackets don't mount booster flat/directly to firewall. They are 1 5/8" deep, but hold booster & MC at a flat angle as opposed to angled up. (The angled booster brackets are also a lot deeper at approx 3.5"). Look at pages 146 and 147 of east coast chevy on-line catalog. Because the flat mount brackets hold the booster closer to firewall, the studs on booster have to be cut or else they collide with the car's firewall MC studs.

Ace
 

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JR, just wanted to be clear....my brackets don't mount booster flat/directly to firewall. They are 1 5/8" deep, but hold booster & MC at a flat angle as opposed to angled up. (The angled booster brackets are also a lot deeper at approx 3.5"). Look at pages 146 and 147 of east coast chevy on-line catalog. Because the flat mount brackets hold the booster closer to firewall, the studs on booster have to be cut or else they collide with the car's firewall MC studs.

Ace
Thanks for that follow-up...it clears things up a bit. I have a hard copy of the E-C catalog, but it's out in the shop and I decided to not brave the torrent of rain last evening to check it out. So piddled around a little on the computer looking for flush mount boosters - came up with nothing. Certainly it could be done, but not really worth the effort, even though it would eliminate the bracket. I looked at the CPP black booster/aluminum master at their booth last summer in Louisville and liked it - if for no other reason than the master would never rust... I've used CPP parts on 3 other builds, and had my share of issues and successes. I'll peruse the E-C info later today, Thanks again.
JR
 

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JR, Pretty sure Don (ACARDON) mounted his booster directly/flush to the firewall of his '57 somehow. You might want to ask him how he did it.....

Ace
 

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Any different recommendation if you have an LS swap??
I will be doing the same.. front disk, rear drum.
Just curious if there are any fitment issues with that CPP setup?
 

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I thought I recalled seeing a unit that the firewall bracket raised the master / booster assembly up a bit to allow more clearance.
 

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Actually this on looks like it moves it up and left?
Surely that means towards to the drivers side.

https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=14976
i'm just finishing up basically that same install bought the entire power disc brake set up from east coast for a 55 that still has factory generator & power steering on the rear thought maybe the unit might clear with using the generator relocating bracket that was a big no ordered the offset bracket to make it all work the booster is a 8" dual
 

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Just got the CPP Midnight series 8" Power booster / Master combo part number MNS5557BB2-8D.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-57-CHEVY-BELAIR-150-210-8-POWER-BRAKE-BOOSTER-CONVERSION-KIT-DISC-DRUM-/263396188065

Looks very nice .. and fits with my LS2.
However ... Why do they make the bracket space it off the firewall so far??
Also aims up ? Looks silly...
I think I will drop $150 to get the offset bracket to get a bit more clearance for my corvette engine cover, especially if it is less of an angle.
Why cant these flush mount to firewall?
I mean I know the bolts but I mean is there a way?

Any body got any picks or recommendations?

I cant be the first guy to think this?
 

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As a general statement, an 8" booster mounted flat won't clear most valve covers, certainly not LS with coils on the covers. Some kind of offset is required.

Also, the offset mount and angle allows a direct, no binding, connection for the booster pushrod to the brake pedal, 1" up from stock location, changing the pedal ratio from 6:1 to 4:1. This reduces the pedal stroke and the overall result is a brake system that feels similar to what is on a modern car.
 

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Just read this article. Confirms what you are saying. Explains it well.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/old-gm-power-brake-boosters-mount-upward-angle/

I’m trying to post a pic of mine. It defiantly would clear the coil packs. And look better but the angle may be the issue. I’m gonna research the offset bracket done more. My ocd hates the clunky look. Lol.
 
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