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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to remove the pinion pivot yoke. Part that holds the universal joint to the Differential.

Can I just loosen the nut that holds the part to the hub. Pull the part off. Not sure if would run into other issue. Just want to double check.

The drive line has been cobled up previously. Have a new shaft and joints.

Looks like the yoke was chewed up to fit the universal joint, just don't want to force univ. joint into the yoke.

Thanks inadvance

Pepe
 

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Need to remove the pinion pivot yoke. Part that holds the universal joint to the Differential.

Can I just loosen the nut that holds the part to the hub. Pull the part off. Not sure if would run into other issue. Just want to double check.

The drive line has been cobled up previously. Have a new shaft and joints.

Looks like the yoke was chewed up to fit the universal joint, just don't want to force univ. joint into the yoke.

Thanks inadvance

Pepe
Pepe, unless I'm misunderstanding what you're asking, when you remove the four nuts from the 2 U-Clamps that hold the universal joint in the saddle of the rear differential yoke, once those U-Clamps are loose and you drop down the drive shaft, the Universal Joint comes down with the drive shaft, so there's now need to remove that rear yoke from the differential.

Hope that helps, best of luck with it!!! :tu:tu:tu

BDR...:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The saddle as you called has been chewed up a little where the U Joint sets. I would like to replace the saddle/yoke
 

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Need to remove the pinion pivot yoke. Part that holds the universal joint to the Differential.

Can I just loosen the nut that holds the part to the hub. Pull the part off. Not sure if would run into other issue. Just want to double check.

The drive line has been cobled up previously. Have a new shaft and joints.

Looks like the yoke was chewed up to fit the universal joint, just don't want to force univ. joint into the yoke.

Thanks inadvance

Pepe
If I understand you correctly, your pinion yoke has been damaged and you want to replace it with a new one.

Once you remove the drive shaft universal from the pinion yoke you will need to remove the nut that holds the pinion yoke in place and remove the pinion yoke as shown below. You do not need to remove the rear axle housing from the car to do this. I would install a new pinion seal while you have it apart.

Hope this helps. :anim_25:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's what I want to do. So once I loosen the nut use a puller to remove the yoke. I just did not want cause more trouble. Thanks for your response just perfect.

Reinstalling just tighten the nut to set the yoke inplace. Do you what torque I should use on the nut?
 

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Inch pounds

you should use an inch pound torque wrench, measure the reading as the big nut is removed. you don't want to over tighten this when reinstalling. it will change the pinion depth in relation to the ring gear by smashing the crush sleeve, it is a spline shaft so the nut does not secure it but sets the depth of the crush sleeve . be careful or you will have more problems. you may be able to measure the fine threads showing i don't know how accurate that would be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks I will measure exposed shaft in front of the nut.

Thanks all.
 

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Measure how many threads are exposed on the pinion shaft, then take a chisel and mark the pinion shaft and pinion nut. When you go back on with the nut, when it gets close to the amount of threads line up the chisel marks. You do not want to over tighten the pinion nut. You do not want to use a torque wrench. I always go past the chisel marks just a hair. Ted
 

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Hope that advice about using an inch-pound torque wrench was meant to be funny ; the pinion nut is staked to the pinion from the factory , and as such , would take about 150-200 ft-lbs to break it loose . Marking the nut and counting the threads is an okay suggestion ,but it just puts the pinion nut back where it was . By all means , replace the oil seal while the yoke is off . Most often , the yoke will slide off with a tap or two , without a puller . If you input "pinion nut torque" in the search box , all sorts of comments and suggestions pop up . I've always reset the pinion yokes with a new crush sleeve and seal , torqued to 150 ft.lbs, holding the yoke still with a monster pipe-wrench . This is where the inch-pound torque-wrench comes in ; the ROTATIONAL torque of the pinion should be around 10-15 inch-pounds ; that's the amount of effort to turn the pinion , with the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings . The actual torque on the pinion nut is 150+ FT.LBS to start with . Torque the pinion nut to 150 ft.lbs. , and then check to see how much torque it takes to rotate the pinion with the inch-pound wrench . Without replacing the crush-sleeve , it's guess-work at best , although some have gotten away without torque-wrenches for years . Better to do it right . Be safe...Bob.
 

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Using the inch pound wrench only works when you are turning only the pinion gear to see how much drag it takes to turn when you have it torqued. I am sure that is what he was getting to. Bob is right, the nut will be torqued quite a bit. Prepare to have a friend as a holder of the wrench against the floor.
 

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Hope that advice about using an inch-pound torque wrench was meant to be funny ; the pinion nut is staked to the pinion from the factory , and as such , would take about 150-200 ft-lbs to break it loose . Marking the nut and counting the threads is an okay suggestion ,but it just puts the pinion nut back where it was . By all means , replace the oil seal while the yoke is off . Most often , the yoke will slide off with a tap or two , without a puller . If you input "pinion nut torque" in the search box , all sorts of comments and suggestions pop up . I've always reset the pinion yokes with a new crush sleeve and seal , torqued to 150 ft.lbs, holding the yoke still with a monster pipe-wrench . This is where the inch-pound torque-wrench comes in ; the ROTATIONAL torque of the pinion should be around 10-15 inch-pounds ; that's the amount of effort to turn the pinion , with the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings . The actual torque on the pinion nut is 150+ FT.LBS to start with . Torque the pinion nut to 150 ft.lbs. , and then check to see how much torque it takes to rotate the pinion with the inch-pound wrench . Without replacing the crush-sleeve , it's guess-work at best , although some have gotten away without torque-wrenches for years . Better to do it right . Be safe...Bob.


Good Advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will need a bruisier to torque it down. I got it off. Previous owner cobled up the yoke. Ilieu of getting the correct size, they gound out the U Joint groove. Will get a new one on Monday. There is agreat drive line guy in Hurst Texas. Products are priced right too.

Thanks for all the help
 
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