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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Doing so sure makes it look nice every time you're behind the wheel. If you need or want that seal, yes, the upper portions have to come off.
Is a process of discovery.
Puled the custom steering wheel of , the turn signal enclosure was full of dirt.
Need to replace components for turn signal, including turn signal cancelling cam (simply not there),
and have figured out the adaptor used for the steering wheel does not have the two holes to hold the signal cancelling cam (seems incorrect model) .
Have looked up finding the Frant 4160 adaptor is applicable to 1956 column. The instructions do show the use of the cam plate,
admit I find it .... that they do not show the back side of the adaptor so I can verify the presence of the two holes.

Had though of up grading to a more recent column, but seems a proper upgrade could include the steering box itself since newer designs
actually use a coupler between steering box input shaft , and steering column shaft itself (not just a one piece shaft).
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I rebuilt my original column. Unless you want tilt or something fancy looking, the stock works fine. Plus, it's paid for already! Parts are easy to find here.
Have pulled the old column.
First thing noticed is the horn wire had broken loose at upper end (part of solder still present).
Have looked at restored columns , hmmmmm $360 - $390 (one must be careful to read as some require steering box upgrade).
Rebuild with parts seems a lot cheaper, My column looks like it should clean up okay:
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Waiting for dashboard switch bezels, column rebuild parts...... decided to revisit the speedometer since it was a bit tight rotating.
Found the web video instructing how to clean and lubricate.
Pulled out the small freeze plug on the side of the housing (base of cable attach threads).
Flushed out with brake cleaner, then lubed with light oil.
Felt a bit of tight points, so I decided to clean the crusty old white grease out of the odometer gears teeth
using a tooth pick...
Took to spinning the speedometer with a T-25 bit in a drill running in reverse.
Dabbed some new Stay Lube White Lithium grease onto the two odometer gears.
A point to consider is the painted on numbers of the odometer are easily scrubbed of even with a Q-Tip.
Clearly need to wipe down some of the surrounding surfaces and remove some of the dust particles....
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Here I sit all broken hearted :rolleyes::geek:......
First I bought new dashboard bezels only to realize they did not come with the metal back plates.
Found the majority of the old goodies slightly abused as expected.
Ordered a set of bezels with back plates, to find:
A) the new back plates are plastic (todays standard).
B) the thru hole for the light switch was only 3/8" and had to file it out to the necessary 1/2" I. D..
Went on to attempt install of the new starter switch that came with the new harness noticing the timing tab orienting it in dashboard non existing, hmmmm okay.
As I tried to orient the harness to the starter switch found it a wee bit .....
Bot familiar with the new harnesses that are sold, and the previous owner had installed with no grommets and thru wrong holes in firewall.
A long story short, using a small fine point set of wire cutters, I removed all the zip ties that tied the harness up in numerous places.
Going to attack it early tomorrow, breaking down/identifying all the wires, and stringing them to where they are going, then bundle them...

Have heard the comments that tell us to sort them out and eliminate unwanted/unused wires.
Given the fact that I had become confused looking for the starter solenoid wire from the switch, only to remember
the wire coming from the ignition switch goes to the safety switch......:rolleyes:
Decided it best to take a break.
 

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A point to consider is the painted on numbers of the odometer are easily scrubbed of even with a Q-Tip.

Loyd,
I believe they sell a numbers tape that you can wrap around the dial to have new looking numbers again.
Also, your column rebuild is a good choice. Not much usually goes bad with them, but they sometimes need that upper bearing replaced. The steering box is easily rebuildable or adjusted.[
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
While waiting for parts for column, moved to securing the rear end wire harness. Researched listings/pointers on Tri Five and working to incorporate what was shown.
Looked under the rear end and realized the factory cross brace (rail to rail) behind the bumper had been pulled towards the bumer say 3/4".
I assume someone wrapped a strap around it to pull something (the factory brace is only 3/32" thick channel).
Pulled the bumper off, wrapped three 760lb. ratchet straps around the brace and the angle iron for the Reese style hitch.
I realized who ever installed the hitch went as far as to weld a 1/4" steel plate from the hitch receiver then welded it to the bottom lip of the bent factory brace (still scratching my head).
I considered (and still am) cutting the ten rivets, remove the old brace, fab a new on ..... but for now:
I cut the link to the hitch, straightened the old brace (as best one can since the channel wall are stretched) , and stretched a piece of 2" x 2" angle to reinforce on two sides
Have strung the flex conduit .... across to feed wires.
You can see the gap between where the reinforcement plate was attached to the hitch and the edge of the frame brace (it use to be directly above it).
Plan to insert my a 2"x 2" insert into the hitch receiver to see if the bumper will sit right with it exposed.
Yup, going to scrape down the tire storage surfaces to paint...
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
While waiting for parts for column, moved to securing the rear end wire harness. Researched listings/pointers on Tri Five and working to incorporate what was shown.
Looked under the rear end and realized the factory cross brace (rail to rail) behind the bumper had been pulled towards the bumer say 3/4".
I assume someone wrapped a strap around it to pull something (the factory brace is only 3/32" thick channel).
Pulled the bumper off, wrapped three 760lb. ratchet straps around the brace and the angle iron for the Reese style hitch.
I realized who ever installed the hitch went as far as to weld a 1/4" steel plate from the hitch receiver then welded it to the bottom lip of the bent factory brace (still scratching my head).
I considered (and still am) cutting the ten rivets, remove the old brace, fab a new on ..... but for now:
I cut the link to the hitch, straightened the old brace (as best one can since the channel wall are stretched) , and stretched a piece of 2" x 2" angle to reinforce on two sides
Have strung the flex conduit .... across to feed wires.
You can see the gap between where the reinforcement plate was attached to the hitch and the edge of the frame brace (it use to be directly above it).
Plan to insert my a 2"x 2" insert into the hitch receiver to see if the bumper will sit right with it exposed.
Yup, going to scrape down the tire storage surfaces to paint...
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Tried setting the bumper in place with the hitch ball mount in the receiver.
So far the height of the receiver is roughly 1/2" - 3/4" too high for the bumper to line up to frame rail holes to allow installation.
Options:
Notch the bottom of the bumper for clearance (to allow a 2" hitch to slide into receiver).
Get an insert that is 2 1/2" (or just over) depth from shoulder to pin with a vertical drop
(could install prior to bumper , of course it would stay...)
Cut the hitch structure from the car.
Just install bumper with no intent to actually use the hitch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Have
looked at the price of a new front bench seat at $1,100 just for frame, springs.....
Have a Borg Warner T5 from a camaro that seems would not fit if I get the bench seat.
Seems buckets are cheaper. and the top loader of the T5 would likely be okay with them.
Your thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Looked at the identification on the T5
13-52-066-913
13-52-066-923
Best I can figure is from an 83-87 Camaro
interesting that it is referred to as a non world class :rolleyes:

will need to stop and do a bit of measuring (best one can do with the turbo 350 in place)
and wrap my head around where the shifter will set if used.
I get it at 21" from front of trans housing to shifter.
16.5" from front of housing to mount.
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Have
looked at the price of a new front bench seat at $1,100 just for frame, springs.....
Have a Borg Warner T5 from a camaro that seems would not fit if I get the bench seat.
Seems buckets are cheaper. and the top loader of the T5 would likely be okay with them.
Your thoughts
You can find a used bench seat (if that's what you want) and have it recovered. I like the buckets in mine though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
You can find a used bench seat (if that's what you want) and have it recovered. I like the buckets in mine though.
Have wrapped up the wire harness install for rear lights (soldering necessary branches park lights, license plate lights....) with double shrink wrap .
Installed new rubber tail light fixture to body rubber seals.
(maybe will get new fixtures for christmas ;)
Installed new reflectors, and lenses.
Waiting to button up remainder of harness before energizing circuits.
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Have reinstalled the tail gate upper window glass with new seal , sealant......
Attached new seal for the jam.
Installed the assembly in the wagon, and see the left side of window is just slightly lower than the right.
Very little clearance between window and tailgate on left side.
Am assuming that there is some adjustment available where the hinge bolts to the roof...
Is it possible to make a height adjustment shifting the hinge as noted?
Have not been able to find literature covering this issue.
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Cleaned up and painted the heater box.
Assembled complete with new core and temperature valve.
Received the two fresh air vent cables only to find that both are 24" long when one of originals is 32".
Rebuilt turn signal switch assembly.
Added the shift detent for the turbo 350 (never updated).
Good thing I took pictures, as diagrams favor manual shift.
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