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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Could not resist getting an Aoooga horn :) .
Preliminary install of column done, will make final alignments, and horn button install tomorrow.
Chuckle as I consider an old stye vacuum wolf whistle, it would give me a use for the factory vacuum tank used in the power brakes.
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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Discovered I had left put the column to instrument cluster rubber seal, pulled the column out.
Discovered that the horn button contact had slipped over the side of the column housing.
Drilled and tapped a 10-32 set screw to push the existing contact Teflon housing towards the center.
Found the turn signal cancellation cam barely reached the triggers, drilled the existing 10-32 screw hole through
to allow the use of a pair of 1/2-20 nuts as spacers behind the cam.
The new steering wheel hub sits a shade shallow combined with a full thickness 1/2-20 nut one the column shaft,
the spring supplied for the horn button won't stay. Have ordered a package of 1/2-20 grade 8 Jam nuts (thinner is better) :)
Have ordered a variety pack of compression springs just in case (needed one for the rattle spring on the column shifter handle anyway).

Making progress
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Discovered I had left put the column to instrument cluster rubber seal, pulled the column out.
Discovered that the horn button contact had slipped over the side of the column housing.
Drilled and tapped a 10-32 set screw to push the existing contact Teflon housing towards the center.
Found the turn signal cancellation cam barely reached the triggers, drilled the existing 10-32 screw hole through
to allow the use of a pair of 1/2-20 nuts as spacers behind the cam.
The new steering wheel hub sits a shade shallow combined with a full thickness 1/2-20 nut one the column shaft,
the spring supplied for the horn button won't stay. Have ordered a package of 1/2-20 grade 8 Jam nuts (thinner is better) :)
Have ordered a variety pack of compression springs just in case (needed one for the rattle spring on the column shifter handle anyway).

Making progress View attachment 378140 View attachment 378142
View attachment 378141
View attachment 378139
meant to say I used a pair of 1/4-20 hex nuts to space the signal cam. Drilling and tapping thru allows the use of 10-32 x 1" long bolts to secure cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
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Installed the heater controls (had to order some push on retainer washers, and one factory style cable clamp (the flat washer that was on the defroster does not hold)).
In the process of cutting select wires and fitting them accordingly (some had fittings but say 2' longer than needed),
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Received the new cable clamp, and push on washer retainers. Felt it seemed the washer needed more pressure then I wanted to apply, I took and approach to secure the cable end by threading the pin, and using a stainless nut instead.
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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Went to install column shit handle (was in a box along with much of the car....), figured out that diameter of split pin should be 7/32" (with a max .232 dia. per standard).
Given the actual dia. inside the shifter handle is at .230 (likely worn) , I ordered both 7/32" and 6mm (at .236) just in case the inch standard dia. is loose.:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Already having the new speedo cable , speedo bullet ... with gears for the Turbo Hydro 350, I dove under the car to prep and install.
Of course I took a flashlight with me and actually peaked into the bullet hole and discovered not only the bullet was missing, but the worm gear on the output shaft is as well.
Pulled the driveshaft out (has one u-bolt with coarse threads, and one with fine threads) hmmm (will get new u-bolts).
Took picture of third member intending to look it up and find no listing for a GM35 (only single digits).
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Pulled out the trans cross member to allow a better scrub of trans.....
Recognized the home brewed cross member perches were rough cut with a torch,
I trimmed the ends square with cut off wheel.
Installed the missing speedo drive gear on the output shaft, used new bolts and washers to re assemble.
Speedometer cable installed, next "E" brake cable and all new pulleys.... Think I should get the new forward brake lines installed before the master cylinder...
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Received new drum puller, noce tool but the brakes suck.
New cylinders, springs, shoes already here.
Between the old shoes being 1 3/4" width (new ones are 2"wide), and the wear of the drums, new drums on the way. A trip to Napa for new studs, and u-joint bolts is in order.
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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Taking a brake
😝
from the interior, and working on the rear brakes.
First thought was holy ......
Already have the new brake cylinders, retainer springs, E brake cable, and shoes. Ordered new adjusters from Napa, and drums from Summit.
Cleaned up/painted axle, backplate, leaf spring.
Will buff the new paint off of the points of contact for the shoes to avoid sticking.
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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Brake progress, left side rear before, right side rear after.
going to get left side done, then adjust up shoes, and E brake....
Going to wait until I get final decision on direction for front end brakes,
including lines....
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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
New drums installed.
Looked at the back plates, and there is some wear on the four pads where the shoes back and forth.
Did buff these points prior to assembly, and plane to yank the drums off after a few miles of use to see how things are progressing.
Have looked at options to get new back plates if needed, for now hesitant to pull them since as I recall the need to pull the axles to get them off.....
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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
New speedometer cable installed.
New “E” brake cable installed.
Rear brakes preliminary mechanical adjustment done.
“E” brakes preliminary adjustments done and tested.
Pressed out the broken wheel stud, and installed new one.
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