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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Well done again with the wiring👍 May I suggest a few bulbs in the garage as well? It seems kind of dusky in there😊
I did turn off the two existing lights (leaving only the garage door opener light) for effect.
I have considered adding lighting, but for now have a pair of lights on cords when needed.
Must admit the previous owner had siliconed the park light sockets into the fixtures. After having wired the passenger side (one of the wire tips was in a box of goodies),
I decided to bend three fingers to secure the socket. I chose to pull the drivers bulb out to do the same and found myself struggling to secure the bulb, thinking I had it fixed
I turned on the lights blowing a fuse. Struggled searching for replacement sockets to no luck on line at local shops, until I found Napa listed a universal socket that was noted as not fitting a 1956.
Ventured there to see for myself, being armed with the fact that the receiver in the fixture was a 3/4" dia., I simply looked at the units on the rack until I found the one that identified it as a 3/4"
universal, two wire (Napa #787109)... for only $4.00. Beats the hell out of after market units for $35.00...
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Okay
New left front park/turn socket gussied up, tested, and installed.
Hooked up the battery and pulled one click on the light switch, again on come the park lights with no blown fuse "YAY".
Next I pushed on the brake pedal (should be constant battery) and no lights, hmmmm.
Put the key into the ignition and turned on the power, the gen light came on as it should (no oil light yet since the sensor is not hooked up).
Pulled the turn switch and I hear click, click.....
When i look forward no lights, and see the rear lights blinking.
Yes I said lights, since both tail lights were blinking.
Switched to the other side, and both front lights along with both instrument cluster indicators are blinking.
First thing, the new American Auto Wire had been sort of installed before I got the car, and when I pulled the passenger fender off,
I realized the 16 gauge dark brown wire marked "park light" was hooked up to "low beam" on the headlight (I have corrected that).
I figure the problem is in the wiring of the adaptor between the new harness (with the plug set for a modern column), and the old column (I did install a new turn switch).
It will be just a matter of tracing down the swapped wire, and sure the issue will be corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
So far the first thing I have identified is the effort to adapt the original (66 year old ) turn signal switch harness plug to new harness, hmmm.
The old wires are too brittle.
The old wires were cut too short, and the first two had already fractured at the new plug.
Going to take inventory of the unused wire and connectors in the Autowire box.
Looks like I will replace the old wires, and with any luck replace the plug inserts in both pieces.
once I get one of the female inserts out of the original plug for measurements, can try to locate a source of new ones.

Did see what was shown as a : 1956 chevy signal switch harness adaptor, but the old style end was the female plastic plug (not the mail end shown).
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55 4 door Bel Air wagon, 350sbc, t5
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I’ve somehow missed your recent progress. Things are moving along nicely.
Seeing a gauge cluster light up is almost as big as the first engine start up for me.
It stirs up nostalgic memories of interstate holidays as a kid. My father would often drive overnight while we all slept and my abiding memory is the glow of the dashboard lights as we drove. So I like all the lights working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
I’ve somehow missed your recent progress. Things are moving along nicely.
Seeing a gauge cluster light up is almost as big as the first engine start up for me.
It stirs up nostalgic memories of interstate holidays as a kid. My father would often drive overnight while we all slept and my abiding memory is the glow of the dashboard lights as we drove. So I like all the lights working.
Although I am still stepping through buttoning up the wiring (discovery/eliminations), I admit turning the key , getting gauge response, then clicking the starter , was a cool sense of progress.
Getting there, while waiting for an order of wire terminals to rebuild the adaptor connecting the turn signal harness, yesterday I elected to install the weather stripping seals on the four doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Have made up the new wires for the adaptor from new American wire harness to factory column turn signal switch.
I made the wires using the diagram showing the wires as they lead to the plug (including the BROWN wire).
Decided before assembling the terminals into the plugs, I should look at both the new American Autowire plug, and the factory column plug
to identify what has been done. I found thew BROWN wire was install from fuse block to the plug.
Once I had seen what was in the new harness, a light went on, there is a secondary paragraph in the American Autowire that
tells us the BROWN is not used when connecting to stock turn switch (hmm ha ha).
No problem, I just need to test and confirm the existing BROWN is the intended 12V supply
the text lists as the PURPLE 12V supply .
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Yay
Fabricated new adaptor harness (left a few inches to allow tucking it up out of sight).
The new harness was wired to include both an E Flasher feed, as well as the ignition controlled 12v for turn flasher,
I went with the ignition controlled feed and simply left plug post to E Flasher feed out (not used in stock column).
The rest was just arranging the pins in the stock plug to correct line.
Hmmm, intended to upload a video of functioning blinkers, but TF said no.
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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
In reflection, looking at the picture of the new adaptor harness,
I could have cut the ends off of the American Autowire harness, and eliminated the newer strip plug
hooking directly into the original plug ....
Oh well, this way if I decide to swap out the original column, the necessary plug is already in line..
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Being my intent to pull the distributor to address the oil pressure gauge connections, I decided to pull the spark plugs :cautious: .
There were three I would consider tight, all but one black.......
Slipped a small diameter air nozzle into each cylinder to blow out loose debris, then sprat upper engine lube into each
(I do not have a clue how long the engine sat before the previous owner (middle man) tried to fire it up.
Decided to hook up the remote start switch, and screw in my old pressure gauge (I have not used for decades)
The front four cylinders :
1 came in at 65 P.S.I. (spinning with starter).
2 50 P.S.I.
3 50 P.S.I.
4 00 Not even a puff.

Going to thread My gauge into an alternate available engine as a comparison,
then pull the valve covers to see what it looks like, including push rods, and rocker arms.
The engine based upon stamped numbers, as well as cast numbers,
is a 305 c.i. manufactured in 1978.
Have already prepared myself by researching long block options
versus refreshing the current engine hear at home.
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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Popped the cover off and quite surprised how clean it is inside.
Looked at the rockers on otherwise dead #4, and could see say 1/8” of clean threads above the adjustment nut. Yup, it was far too tight.
Found exhaust on number 8 flopping around, now it hits 70.
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Understanding the engine is cold, and lifters are just getting oil for first time in recent…. , I rotated each to closed position to back them off and bring down just zero backlash (or more). Stuck my thumb in number for SP hole , and pop,
60 lbs.

Will pull the cover on driver bank and do the same there.
Looking more like it reasonable to put a bit of time adjusting, clean the carburetor, new wires cap and rotor, and at least see what it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Hmmm
So I took the old compression gauge down to the barn.
Pulled a plug out of my John Deere 265 and the compression there is 55 per my gauge,
pretty much the same at my 305 in the wagon
(was good to turn over the Deere anyway, since it has sat for a couple of months),
Looked up the factory compression ratio for both
the Deere is 8.3-8.4, the 305 is 8.3.
I know the Deere runs fine, so unless I buy another tester ..... am thinking the old 305 may be fine.
Of course one never knows until you fire it up (uncorked of course ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Am looking at the standard 1978 SBC second gen distributor with the coil in the cap.
First thing I noticed is number one on the past nearest the number 7 plug side.
I understand the wire can be attached at any post on the cap.
Second things I see when I set the cap in place is how close the cap is to the firewall.
Some diagrams are conflicted with one placing the number one wire at front right of center (towards passenger side,
which means wires 3 and 6 are closest to the firewall and must cross with no room).

My preferred arrangement one that rotates number one CCW so it is in the front on the left (or drivers side), the result places
wires 6 and 5 nearest the firewall allowing them to progress to their plug without crossing behind distributor.

Certainly and alternative is to purchase what I would refer to as a first gen distributor with no points ,
nut of course the need for an external coil kind of sucks.
Any thoughts ?

Also looking for a source for the wire shields used by factory for wires run under the exhaust,
rather than over valve cover (since this seems less of an issue with headers).
 
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