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Just and idea, and I don’t know for sure if it would help, hurt, or do nothing. How about cutting a hole in each side radiator panel, and mount some small fans to blow into the bay? I know some might say it’d steal air from the radiator, but with the setup you have maybe not too much. You could even incorporate some short ducts to point where you want. Just a thought.
 

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Any idea on the brand/thickness of coating?

Also, any chance your A:F ratio is off and you're maybe seeing high EGTs as a result of that? If your EGTs are normal and you have even the thinnest ceramic coating, I'd think it shouldn't be blistering the paint off a brake booster 6" away even if airflow is mediocre.
 

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It does work, but I hate the looks of that wrap.
Me too! Never cared for header wrap. I am using black header wrap on both of my tailpipes where they run parallel to my fuel cell, just to avoid heat. But not sure I really even need it. Just did it as a precaution, and since it's not right out where everyone sees it anyway.
 

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I am with you Dave, turn the fans on manually and as soon as the motor is started. See if the system can keep up if you start earlier.
 

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A bypass switch to be able to manually turn on the fan relay would be easy to do. And worse thing that could happen then is you might forget and it would run more than necessary if you forgot and left it on.
 

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Update; Got the louvres punched in my spare hood and took it out for a spin this afternoon. I taped some pieces of yarn behind several louvres as well as the back of the hood near the windshield. Turns out that at low speed (<50mph) the air flow is from the louvres toward the windshield. Over 50mph it reverses and the air flows from the windshield into the louvres/engine bay. Funky, but that's what it is. <shrug> The good news is that we turned the a-c on after the engine reached operating temp and the overheat issue appears to be resolved! The engine temp never went above 195 even in stop-and-go traffic in town with the a-c on cold enough to give us chills.
 

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Update; Got the louvres punched in my spare hood and took it out for a spin this afternoon. I taped some pieces of yarn behind several louvres as well as the back of the hood near the windshield. Turns out that at low speed (<50mph) the air flow is from the louvres toward the windshield. Over 50mph it reverses and the air flows from the windshield into the louvres/engine bay. Funky, but that's what it is. <shrug> The good news is that we turned the a-c on after the engine reached operating temp and the overheat issue appears to be resolved! The engine temp never went above 195 even in stop-and-go traffic in town with the a-c on cold enough to give us chills.
Can you post a couple pics?
 

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It's a spare hood that I had laying around but the louvres fixed the problem with it getting hot when the a-c was in use. Will get it painted after we get back from B-G...or perhaps just get a new hood, put louvres in it, and paint that.
 

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I took a different route and eliminated my inner fenders. Much cooler, 30+pounds lighter, and MUCH easier to work on.
Plus I needed the room for 275/40-17 tires on the front. I plan to never drive it the rain anyway.
 

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I took a different route and eliminated my inner fenders. Much cooler, 30+pounds lighter, and MUCH easier to work on.
Plus I needed the room for 275/40-17 tires on the front. I plan to never drive it the rain anyway.
I like what you did but i drive mine 3 to 4 days a week rain or shine. Wouldnt work for me
 

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I like what you did but i drive mine 3 to 4 days a week rain or shine. Wouldnt work for me
Plus...If you have a 55 (or 56), all that hot air will be drawn right into the cowl intake.
 

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1955 210 SERIES, 406 DUAL QUAD ENGINE WITH MUNCIE 4 SPEED
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Some engines just run hot especially if the cylinder walls are thin through boring. I ran a 406 with louvered hood and large cross flow radiator and was always hot ( 220F)
 

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I have the same issue with my 454, M21 1956 Bel Air. A bit of a back story. When I lived in Hawaii, the car had steel heads and I could drive it around all day long, with no issues with overheating. I now live in Las Vegas, I have changed to Aluminum heads, and now run hot all the time (220 degrees). I have upgraded the copper/brass radiator to an aluminum Dewitts downflow, upgraded the water pump to a Flow Kooler unit, I am running the same twin 11" spall electric fans that I turn on by switch. I believe that the humid air in Hawaii is more efficient at transferring heat from the radiator fins, and I am now having issues with the aluminum heads dissipating heat within the engine bay more quickly where the steel heads held onto it. I hate chasing cooling issues, if I had the money, I would just buy a cold case cross-flow system or a be cool system, but I don't, it all goes to my lovely ex-wife thanks to the amazing divorce laws in Nevada. I have been thinking of removing my inner fender wells, or if I could find a tunnel ram for cheap, cutting a hole in the hood (lol). I just want to drive my damn car without worrying about it overheating. Another thing to note, If I am at 220 and I come to a long downhill and throw the car into neutral and let it coast (40 - 50 mph), I will drop 20 degrees by the bottom of the hill (say a mile long or so).

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I have the same issue with my 454, M21 1956 Bel Air. A bit of a back story. When I lived in Hawaii, the car had steel heads and I could drive it around all day long, with no issues with overheating. I now live in Las Vegas, I have changed to Aluminum heads, and now run hot all the time (220 degrees). I have upgraded the copper/brass radiator to an aluminum Dewitts downflow, upgraded the water pump to a Flow Kooler unit, I am running the same twin 11" spall electric fans that I turn on by switch. I believe that the humid air in Hawaii is more efficient at transferring heat from the radiator fins, and I am now having issues with the aluminum heads dissipating heat within the engine bay more quickly where the steel heads held onto it. I hate chasing cooling issues, if I had the money, I would just buy a cold case cross-flow system or a be cool system, but I don't, it all goes to my lovely ex-wife thanks to the amazing divorce laws in Nevada. I have been thinking of removing my inner fender wells, or if I could find a tunnel ram for cheap, cutting a hole in the hood (lol). I just want to drive my damn car without worrying about it overheating. Another thing to note, If I am at 220 and I come to a long downhill and throw the car into neutral and let it coast (40 - 50 mph), I will drop 20 degrees by the bottom of the hill (say a mile long or so).

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Badass 56. Try a mechanical fan with a shroud. Not guaranteeing success, but I built a 63 Impala with a 409 in the 80’s. Darn thing would overheat in minutes with electric fans. Changed to a mech fan and problem solved. And no irritating fan noise at idle either.
 

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Badass 56. Try a mechanical fan with a shroud. Not guaranteeing success, but I built a 63 Impala with a 409 in the 80’s. Darn thing would overheat in minutes with electric fans. Changed to a mech fan and problem solved. And no irritating fan noise at idle either.
Thanks, I posted more pictures in the pictures section. My brother said the same thing about the mechanical fan. I may go in that direction...
 

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Solution for a quieter/cooler car: Re install the cast exhaust manifolds and lose the headers! :) but modifying your fan control to have a low speed setting (half speed fans?) might also be a great idea for change.

Is your engine running lean? Lean engines run HOT...
 

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Solution for a quieter/cooler car: Re install the cast exhaust manifolds and lose the headers! :) but modifying your fan control to have a low speed setting (half speed fans?) might also be a great idea for change.

Is your engine running lean? Lean engines run HOT...
Not sure if this was a reply for me or for someone else. I know this thread was kind of old.
My car is loud as F with the big block, huge cam, and super 40 mufflers through 3" pipes out the side to 4" tips. No quiet ever, lol. My fans are full speed, all the time, they come on with a switch, no fan controller. I have an oxygen sensor installed in my passenger side header and at idle I am near 14:1, cruising closer to 13.5:1, under hard acceleration 12:1. My cam is a 108 LC, so lots of overlap. The car has a dual-plane Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap, 800 Edelbrock AVS2 carb, Performer RPM heads, its 10.5:1 compression (was 11:1 with the steel heads), headers are 2 1/4" primary long tubes, base timing is set at 14 BTDC, the total is 36 I believe, the distributor is a small-cap HEI unit from Performance Distributor. I'm about ready to just drive around without my hood, lol. The only way I am running manifolds is if they are attached to turbos. :)
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Sikryd, something went wrong when you made your changes from iron heads to aluminum heads. There is no reason that should have happened. Likewise nad427's electric fans, something was wrong and is wasn't because he chose electric fans.

Unfortunately, you described everything as I would do it - I have no suggestions other than this one - check your timing to be sure that it's what you think it is.
 

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One simple thing you might check is where your temperature sender is located if it's in one of the heads & you have a provision in the intake manifold swap the sender position see if there might be a difference. I say this because after swapping from iron heads to a set of Edlebrocks on a SBC it made a difference in gauge readings by 20* didn't understand why but it did & the car has been running now for several years without issue.
 

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One simple thing you might check is where your temperature sender is located if it's in one of the heads & you have a provision in the intake manifold swap the sender position see if there might be a difference. I say this because after swapping from iron heads to a set of Edlebrocks on a SBC it made a difference in gauge readings by 20* didn't understand why but it did & the car has been running now for several years without issue.
The sending unit is in my intake next to the water neck. The sending unit is newish as it came with my Dakota Digital gauges, so I don't think it's an issue with the sending unit. I did use a non-contact thermometer and shot the temp right near it and it was within a degree or two. It's time to move to alcohol or lose the hood, lol.
 
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