Rear Gear Patterns

Looks pretty good to me. You want the heaviest contact in the center of the tooth on both the height and the width. You have that perfect on the height of the tooth, and on the crown (drive side).

Great...:happy0030:I'm going to start putting it back together in a few hours. I changed the shim once to get that pattern .28 to .33 for the final. I almost have that on the coast side but my next shim size is a .40 and I think if I put that in I will lose my drive side pattern.

That would be my guess too, that's probably too big a move. Even 002" more shim might be too much change for the drive side. And you have the benefit of knowing how much it changed with your first adjustment - I don't.

When I went to the .33 shim that upped it .05 from the .28 shim that I started with which was putting the pattern a bit on the the inner toe. The .33 shim put it right dead on center of the drive side as you see now. I think anything else would put closer to the outer heel side. I'm going to leave it like it is. Thanks for the advise from your experience...GKK


BTW Rick..this project is converting the rear end to posi from a non-posi unit. All of the bearings, gears, axle bearing, ring and pinion, spider gears were eat up with rust pits and needed replacing. I got most of the stuff, carries and R&P, from Ron's one of our sponsors. The bearings came from Eckler's which were Timken.

Looks like a good pattern to me. I thikn it will run well like that. I see that you are using the Eaton Posi. Did you have to do any modifications to the case to make it fit?

big gear head said:

Looks like a good pattern to me. I thikn it will run well like that. I see that you are using the Eaton Posi. Did you have to do any modifications to the case to make it fit?

Click to expand...

Yes I did..I ground off a web brace 1.5 inches to 2 inches and had to do a little grinding on the case where the ring gear flange on the carrier unit ran. All of that took less than an hour. I also used a grinding tool and then polish and finished it up with a Dremel tool with a fine rock on the end to clean up anything that may turn into something else. Then to top it off I wire wheeled those areas and then did a good cleaning with gunk and brake cleaner.

I was wondering if there were any clearance issues with the Eaton. I've been told that they fit with no grinding, but I didn't believe it. I haven't had the chance to install one yet.

GEAR BREAK IN

GEAR PATTERNS LOOK GOOD. REMEMBER TO BREAK GEAR IN 200-300 MILES. BACK IN THE DAY THE HEMI MOPARS WOULD UNLOAD REMOVE THE SLICKS AND RUN THE CARS IN GEAR FOR 15-20 MINUTES TO WARM THE GEAR GREASE BEFORE MAKING THEIR FIRST RUNS OF THE DAY. PROBABLLY WORK TO HELP BREAK IN GEARS TOO. RUN UNTIL REAR IS WARM THEN SHUT OFF. LET COOL TO AMBIENT TEMP THEN REPEAT. 2 OR 3 TIMES SHOULD DO THE TRICK BEFORE SOME GENTILE CRUSIN'.:anim_25:

Actually, that is what I plan to do next Saturday morning. Thanks for reaffirming my idea:tu. gkk