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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before installing new rear main seal, 2 piece SB350, I have a dumb question.

Should I mark flywheel position with white-out in order to clean mating surfaces and then return to original position?

I don't think it matters but want to be sure.

Also, is BLUE RTV the recommended sealant on the edges? I have RED and CLEAR.
 

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Before installing new rear main seal, 2 piece SB350, I have a dumb question.

Should I mark flywheel position with white-out in order to clean mating surfaces and then return to original position?

I don't think it matters but want to be sure.

Also, is BLUE RTV the recommended sealant on the edges? I have RED and CLEAR.
Hopefully you have the dowel in place which will guarantee it goes back the same... and I am pretty sure the bolt holes have one slightly off position as well (I know the one piece does) I don't know that I ever paid attention to that aspect before as the dowel is the locator and I always used a new dowel on my assemblies. - but be sure your clutch goes back in the same place! it's irrelevent when using new parts but will accelerate wear if you put it all back one third of a turn out (same for a Torque converter as well)

either rtv will work - just let it skin a bit before mushing down.
 

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Before installing new rear main seal, 2 piece SB350, I have a dumb question.

Should I mark flywheel position with white-out in order to clean mating surfaces and then return to original position?

I don't think it matters but want to be sure.

Also, is BLUE RTV the recommended sealant on the edges? I have RED and CLEAR.
All 350 2 peice rear seal engines are internally balanced and the balancer and the flywheel should be neutral.

There should be a hole in the flywheel and one in the crank and because of habit I have always lined the 2 up but it really don't matter.
 

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It's funny - but when I read this a second time I get a completely different question! I am not sure if he was talking about rotating the engine to clean the seal (like as in the journal) surface - in that case the answer is it don't matter - unless you have something else uninstalled like the dist and rotating will throw off the timing on re-install! But one word of caution - DON"T force the upper seal half in by just pushing - make sure you load it into the crankshaft as you insert or the nice sharp edge of the block will cut the ridge of rubber from the outer diameter of the seal - oil will then leak OVER the seal (between the seal and the Block).

And correctly (thank CNC) inner balance does not need a dowel - but the holes do still line up! I am foggy today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yea, I wasn't too clear after reading it myself. I've got the motor on a stand and was just rotating to clean the journal area prior to rear main install. I've been foggy--long long time since I've done a teardown and probably need remedial autoshop...
 
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