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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I have been trolling the forum and threads for the last few days trying to find a post pertaining to the fitting of the Ecklers style Relocating bar with no success.
I know i have seen the instructions somewhere however can not seam to find it.
I have read many posts for and against this style however it does give me the basic dimensions i require for fitment. I do not have the luxury most instruction sheets provide as they pertain to the body already on the chassis and aligning the orig shock mounts for the bar position. Does anyone know of the thread or have the instructions they can send to me?
Thanks in advance David
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Room for tailpipes.

I read and saw in the link that classicchevy shock bar curves forward in the center to allow more room for tailpipes. Good design. :tu
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Here's the installation instructions for the other shock bar:http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/21-28.pdf
Which shock bar do you have?; standard or the one for lowered cars....Also, is your frame one or two piece?
I have a 2 piece frame
The mount i have in mind is the straight one however the lowered vehicle one (curved) may be more practicable. The instructions for the straight one do not show the dimensions i needed as it offers the body as a mount reference.
The dimensions i needed was the distance from the rear of frame to the cross arm and the height loss of the shocker travel.
I had my shocker plates mounted after i reassembled my mock up of the diff housing and it did not look right. Old timers kicking in (HEHEHEHE brain fade) i have them on the wrong side and have the shocks on the rear of housing instead of the front.
So now to figure which one and how to modify so as to not loose so much travel as the 3" loss coupled to the 1 1/2 " lowering blocks I loose 4 1/2" total travel and will make for an interesting and hard ride. Not to mention i may have to source lowered shocks to accommodate the loss of travel. Does anyone know of a mod using twin eye shocks on a single bar? Which model shocks were used? Just floating ideas
Anyone done this type of mod ? If so please advise on what you did thanks.
 

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David
I think the crossmember can be mounted higher than the one shown in that link. When we did mine all those years ago we mounted the new crossmember level with the top of the chassis rail. When we mounted the body I noticed there was room to mount the bar a bit higher - from memory about 1" or 2" clearance between the bar and the floor.
Are you coming down tomorrow? If so, you can check under my '56 and John's '57 to see what clearance there is between the bar and the floor.
Cheers, Des
 

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Hey Wayne, how did you go with running your exhaust through that narrow gap? I noticed you have a straight shock bar and that you have lowered the car, do you still have enough clearance in regards to suspension travel ? I'm at the stage of doing a shock bar and have read somewhere here that you need the shock bar that has the upwards bend in it ?
 

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Hey Wayne, how did you go with running your exhaust through that narrow gap? I noticed you have a straight shock bar and that you have lowered the car, do you still have enough clearance in regards to suspension travel ? I'm at the stage of doing a shock bar and have read somewhere here that you need the shock bar that has the upwards bend in it ?
Dont want to think about the gap Dean !!
Might have to cut the tank ??
 

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David
I think the crossmember can be mounted higher than the one shown in that link. When we did mine all those years ago we mounted the new crossmember level with the top of the chassis rail. When we mounted the body I noticed there was room to mount the bar a bit higher - from memory about 1" or 2" clearance between the bar and the floor.
Slight correction to my comments - we forget a bit over time. :) My '56 has a custom rear floor where the original shock mounts were removed. Looking at John's car today, the shock mount is mounted level with the top of the frame, and there is a small clearance between the original shock mounts and the shock bar.

So if you are building a custom car and want a bit more clearance, remove the original shock mounts from the floor and you can mount the shock bar a bit higher.

And david, was good to catch up with you today.

cheers, Des
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Slight correction to my comments - we forget a bit over time. :) My '56 has a custom rear floor where the original shock mounts were removed. Looking at John's car today, the shock mount is mounted level with the top of the frame, and there is a small clearance between the original shock mounts and the shock bar.

So if you are building a custom car and want a bit more clearance, remove the original shock mounts from the floor and you can mount the shock bar a bit higher.

And David, was good to catch up with you today.

cheers, Des
Des was great to catch you and John today and have a chat. Many thanks for the correction above and for allowing me to have a look under John`s car giving me opportunity to get the exact measurements i needed.
As stated the shock bar can only go as high as Flush with the top edge of frame, this will give 1/4" max between the orig shock mounts and the new shock cross member and makes for a tight fit for the exhaust. This new info will assist in my decision in going forward with this particular mod.
Bit of homework now to see what i can do to get back some shock travel. Total loss in the new position is 3 1/2", with local supplier i can get 1" lower spec shocks.
Question now is do i need to be concerned on the 2 1/2" or am i being to pedantic.
Thanks again to all for all replies David
 

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David,
Can I ask the reason for installing the shock mount? Is your body damaged in the shock mount area?

Would it be simpler just to install stock shockers (real cheap, about $20 each for decent Monroe gas from rockauto.com) in the stock position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
David,
Can I ask the reason for installing the shock mount? Is your body damaged in the shock mount area?

Would it be simpler just to install stock shockers (real cheap, about $20 each for decent Monroe gas from rockauto.com) in the stock position.
Hi Matt, Maybe i am over thinking my issue.
Yes it would be simpler and make more sense to install std shocks in the std location and Wayne and Deans posts have made me look a bit further into the mod .
My orig reasoning goes like this.
My orig mounts are 56 years old, non failed and will surely have fatigue, this is my main concern and main reason i leaned towards the shock mount, and as my chassis is out the mod would be easier to perform. My research is leading me to rethink the shock bar idea and highlighted other associated issues with the mod.
So before i headed into an unknown area (to me) i made my initial post.
Many members have successfully incorporated this mod and made it work for their application and in the process saved the floor pan in the trunk. I may now just reinforce my orig floor mounts, fit up the standard shocks and forgo the shock mount bar.
I will be running std springs and 1 1/2" lowered blocks.
My thought process calculated that the orig mount positions will remain almost unchanged, and only the travel arch of the suspension on the other hand will not, it will be reduced to the tune of the lowered blocks and run the risk of bottoming the shocks out on full compression. My initial thoughts were no loss of travel with the shock bar and my research has proven otherwise. All things being equal the info supplied to me to date is reinforcing any modification needs to be thoroughly thought out, have all pro`s and con`s considered and then acted on accordingly for the desired outcome. Thanks again all whom have and may post their thoughts.
Regs David
 

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Just one other thought, lowering blocks will not affect the required shock length - the position of the lower shock mount plate under the spring is unchanged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just one other thought, lowering blocks will not affect the required shock length - the position of the lower shock mount plate under the spring is unchanged.
Agreed, however i did know the full travel of axle is compromised due to the lowering blocks.
My thoughts were i could incorporate this loss with the shock bar and regain my loss.
My thought process was to fit the bar, the main frame modified in the bump stop area to regain this loss and the bar would reinforce this frame mod. Alas this is not the case and after seeing first hand today one in place and in service my perception was way off.
 

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I'm looking to do this modification also. It sounds like this thread is about wrapped up but maybe Wayne or someone could answer a few questions for me. I'm looking at the earle Williams support for my car. My 57 is lowered with 2" drop leafs with the original style dual exhaust. Will I have clearance issues with the rear end hitting the Williams support bar or is it mounted up high enough? If so will the curved Eckler's support bar give me more clearance?

I sure wish that Eckler's support bar was left a bit longer to cut to fit rather then having to spread the frame like the instructions read.


Thanks Gerald
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm looking to do this modification also. It sounds like this thread is about wrapped up but maybe Wayne or someone could answer a few questions for me. I'm looking at the earle Williams support for my car. My 57 is lowered with 2" drop leafs with the original style dual exhaust. Will I have clearance issues with the rear end hitting the Williams support bar or is it mounted up high enough? If so will the curved Eckler's support bar give me more clearance?

I sure wish that Eckler's support bar was left a bit longer to cut to fit rather then having to spread the frame like the instructions read.


Thanks Gerald
Gidday Gerald have a read of this thread it may give you some answers to some of your questions.
I know it made me think on my own situation.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105015&highlight=rear+shocks+bottoming
Regs David
 
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