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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone!

I removed all the rear stainless trim for my repaint so I would not have to mask up to it. That stuff was a bear to get off – they long pieces wedged securely in there. (And not just fastened to the clips – the 'T' section was held well by the rubber and also the old, white sealer. (First time out of the car, btw.)

It's hard to tell what condition the original clips are in, and I know they can't be changed without taking the glass out. BUT ... what experience to people have with re-using old clips in place and just using a strong sealer around any that are broken? (And can broken clips be partially cut away?)

Btw, the front stainless section around the top of the windshield was just masked up – because an outside visor covers it up anyway.

Cheers, John

Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Couch Motor vehicle
 

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Hey everyone!

I removed all the rear stainless trim for my repaint so I would not have to mask up to it. That stuff was a bear to get off – they long pieces wedged securely in there. (And not just fastened to the clips – the 'T' section was held well by the rubber and also the old, white sealer. (First time out of the car, btw.)

It's hard to tell what condition the original clips are in, and I know they can't be changed without taking the glass out. BUT ... what experience to people have with re-using old clips in place and just using a strong sealer around any that are broken? (And can broken clips be partially cut away?)

Btw, the front stainless section around the top of the windshield was just masked up – because an outside visor covers it up anyway.

Cheers, John
If it were mine I would remove the rear glass. Not that difficult. have a helper (or 2) cover trunk area with a blanket since new paint and clean area, install new (and extra clips especially at lower corners as they're difficult to hold with just the factory amount of clips) use new seal and caulk strip and reinstall.
 

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It’s an interesting quandary, especially if the original seal is not leaking. Do you disturb 65 years of no leaks, just to replace a couple of clips and run the risk of leaks with the new rubber, or do you touch the clips up with some rust converter and sort out a workaround for the broken clips to avoid disturbing the rear window. My windshields are original to the car and do not leak. Me, I would not even consider removing them at this point, even for paint, just because they don’t leak And are not failing in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It’s an interesting quandary, especially if the original seal is not leaking. Do you disturbed 65 years of no leaks, just to replace a couple of clips and run the risk of leaks with the new rubber, or do you touch the clips up with some rust converter and sort out a workaround for the broken clips to avoid disturbing the rear window. My windshields are original to the car and do not leak. Me, I would not even consider removing them at this point, even for paint, just because they don’t leak And are not failing in any way.
Yes, I should have said – there has been no leaking.

Previous repaint was done without removal (and ended with cracking), and this time I wanted the better (non-masked) finish. And being a 4DHT getting the corner pieces removal was very difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And my … that original white caulking seal is amazing stuff – still pliable (and strong) after 60 plus years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have cleaned up the insides of the three main trim pieces – man there was a lot of crud in there!

Today I will clean up some more around the actual window rubber and clips to see accurately what is going on.

But to confirm: the perpendicular part of the trim section slots on the outside of the clips and into the groove of the rubber, right?

And in these times, what is the preferred sealer to use in this application?
 

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Have cleaned up the insides of the three main trim pieces – man there was a lot of crud in there!

Today I will clean up some more around the actual window rubber and clips to see accurately what is going on.

But to confirm: the perpendicular part of the trim section slots on the outside of the clips and into the groove of the rubber, right?

And in these times, what is the preferred sealer to use in this application?
For sealer, this is what I ordered and the glass guy said it was perfect. Did front and back and still have some left.

3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound, 08509, 1/10 gal Cartridge https://a.co/d/8iPTxG6
 
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