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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My son wants to install retractable 2 point or 3 point seatbelts in his 56 post. I have found a couple pics but no real meat to how to get this done in a good manner. The motivation for the retractables is to not be seen very much. We plan on belts in the front and back so any suggestions would be appreciated. We would also like to match the original green interior as we are going to remove it and fix everything needed and put it right back in. In too good of shape not to. Thanks in advance for any help.
Wayne
 

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seat belts

I can give you some general ideas. On my 2 door sedan I weleded two nuts into
the side of the interior. One nut was located between the rear window garnish molding and the edge of the windlace at the door. The other nut was directly below that one at the floor using the retractor as your guide as to how high from the floor to weld this nut.

I ran into a problem with the retractor hitting the lower rear stainless steel piece of molding. The belt in the back of the retractor was laying against the trim piece and then the belt would not cycle. So I made a piece of metal that form fit the retractor to go in back of the retractor about 5/16 thick. Then I machined a goove to clear the stainless trim piece and I machined a second groove to allow clerence for the belt itselt.
If you do not use the stainless steel trim piec you have it made
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Guys. The Juliano's site showed the install I need to do. Now I just need to find the belts in a green that goes with the original interior. Suggestions?
 

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Just as an fyi, i looked at GEM's hardware, Ecklers, and Julliano's and found the Julliano's to be the best overall in terms of design and strength. You might call them and see if they can make you up a set. If not, you might be ble to have them sell you just the retractable parts and get in touch with snakeoyl products (sic) or something like that. I think they do a lot of colors, but not positive.
 

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I am in the process of installing 3 points in my 55 4dr wagon and I found the best price for belts here.

http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/?gclid=CMqqvOOLo7gCFVEV7AodQDgAtA

I bought a steel plate with a 7/16x20 nut welded on the back. I got them from Andover Restraints.

http://www.andoverrestraints.com/

They are RB-3 1 1/2x 4 and about a 1/4 inch thick.

The video mentioned shows a pickup truck. I found the tri five cars are different. There is no metal to go behind. After you have removed the trim you have to cut a notch out of the raised part of the center of the door pillar reenforcement and then weld the plate to the door post. I personally would not trust just welding a nut to it.

I did two rosette welds and then both sides of the plate and top and bottom. The plate is just a bit smaller than the width of the door post.(B pillar) Its best to do this before you paint the car. Naturally I did it after and burned the paint off the B pillar. In the process of welding the plate to the door pillar I also welded the outer skin of the pillar to the inner reinforcement.

If you need pictures of how I did it, I can take some tomorrow.
 

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You may have looked at the wrong video, the one to look at is a 55 sedan. Now I will say that Julianos shows them welding in the upper pillar plate, you can actually drill a hole for the pillar bolt in the pillar, and two smaller holes for screwing the plate to the pillar, and then trim the plate, I believe you then pull the window wiskers from the rear side window, and fish the plate up the pillar through the side of the pillar without cutting and welding, and then attaching the plate using screws. Mine is done that way, although I had east coast chevy do it while it was in their shop for floorboard work so I am not speaking from first hand doing.
 

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You may have looked at the wrong video, the one to look at is a 55 sedan. Now I will say that Julianos shows them welding in the upper pillar plate, you can actually drill a hole for the pillar bolt in the pillar, and two smaller holes for screwing the plate to the pillar, and then trim the plate, I believe you then pull the window wiskers from the rear side window, and fish the plate up the pillar through the side of the pillar without cutting and welding, and then attaching the plate using screws. Mine is done that way, although I had east coast chevy do it while it was in their shop for floorboard work so I am not speaking from first hand doing.
Drag,
You are right, I looked at the general instructions for the 3 point belts which is a pickup. I found the photos of the 55 2dr sedan. but a 4 dr sedan or wagon is totally different. (which is what I was talking about) The reinforcement is corrigated. (just two big curves) No way to get anything in behind it. I will take some pictures and post them today.
 

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Oh gosh, what a pain. You know, when I first started in with these cars in the 70's, 4 door cars were for parts. Now more and more four doors are being re-done. I am surprised that Julliano's does not have a work around for this. I wonder if you could weld the tab that is used for the hardtops to ease the installation.
 

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Oh gosh, what a pain. You know, when I first started in with these cars in the 70's, 4 door cars were for parts. Now more and more four doors are being re-done. I am surprised that Julliano's does not have a work around for this. I wonder if you could weld the tab that is used for the hardtops to ease the installation.
Drag,

Yep In the early 80's I cut up a totally (and I do mean totally) rust free v8 4dr 56 chevy with factory air that WORKED, because I needed the front clip, bumpers and drive train to restore a rusty 56 convertiable. Crazy..

That link you attached is exactly what I did on my door post. Just a bit lower. I cut out a small section to clear the nut and welded it in on both sides and top and bottom at the hump. It ain't going anywhere.
 

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I have no seat belts in my classic cars. I am keeping this info for later use when and if I decide to install them. Thanks guys. Mike
 

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Thanks for posting the pics. I am sure a lot of the 4 door guys will be interested in seeing how you did it.
 

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4 dr seatbelt install

Drag,

Yep In the early 80's I cut up a totally (and I do mean totally) rust free v8 4dr 56 chevy with factory air that WORKED, because I needed the front clip, bumpers and drive train to restore a rusty 56 convertiable. Crazy..

That link you attached is exactly what I did on my door post. Just a bit lower. I cut out a small section to clear the nut and welded it in on both sides and top and bottom at the hump. It ain't going anywhere.
Guys, this is great stuff! Just about to install some 3 pts in my 2 wagons! :congrats::congrats::tu:tu
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is great info guys thanks. The interior is our winter project and this will have us off to a good start. Thanks!!!
 

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This is great info guys thanks. The interior is our winter project and this will have us off to a good start. Thanks!!!
Here is the bracket I made for the bottom of the B pillar on a 4 dr to mount the reel. I made it out of 2 1/2 inch C channel .175 thick, cut in half lengthwise. Its about 5 1/2 inches long. I will weld it to both the floor and the pillar.
 

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Great Post. Am a FIRM believer in seat belts. For a hardtop, seems only way for a 3 point at this time is newer seats with built in. Can't make myself take out the stock bench seat I finally found after 3 years searching and then had to pay $500 a number of years ago. Anyone have the 3 points in a hardtop? Tks Lloyd :bowtier: Sorry, did not mean to steal the thread, but it fits perfectly.
 
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