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It's been slightly over a year since I used a friends commercial Rotisserie. It has wide large steel wheels, no bearings (would be a great improvement to reduces the friction), 3/4 inch stop bolts, extendable feet & length and safety pins that where spring loaded. The steel wheels were very large, the down side, sweep your floors.

I wouldn't get anywhere close to a rotisserie that didn't have safety bolts and locking Pins.

Consider the worst case scenario, something falls or Bumps the rotisserie, a weld fails,, and the rotisserie starts to lean or ?? Larger safety components are very expensive. If your concerned about a welded members strength, add a brace , gusset ETC, their low $$ cost and very effective. Always listen to your Gut Feeling.

First off Rick is Very Correct, CG Center of Gravity is of upmost importance !!!

Whatever one has bolted onto a rotisserie this large bulky component needs to have the CG properly centered. When properly set, the Body, Fame etc should be easy to Rotate, and little risk of Tipping Over. Few have bearings, so grease the tube inside a tube axle to reduce Friction. Yep, I got my frame with one end brace bolted up before the Light Bulb came on ...

My Project...

I used the borrowed rotisserie to Finish up my '37 new Frame with a quite complex Roll Cage. We added various body and accessory mounting Tabs, Corner Braces, a few short Tubing pieces, suspension brackets, Rocker Bars, Seat Bars, ETC., and TIG welding in the so hard to get places.

It took me a full day to set up the rotisserie, adjust the overall length and width of the legs,,, everything was heavy. Was a very heavy duty rotisserie. Also Took me several times to get the CG to where the frame was well balance and wasn't heavier on one side. Setting up the CG was a major PITA, but eventually it was done and relatively easy to by hand at the center of the frame. I cold turn the frame and it would stay put.

The TIG welding was completed by a friend of mine (certified) , and he is an absolute fanatic about proper prep, clean, and proper welds, no porosity. So he was constantly having me Turn the Frame ,,, just a little bit more, clean here... But in the end, was well worthwhile. While I was watching Ron often sitting inside the frame TIG welding,,,, I thought a lot about safety.

I also had the Dustless sand blasting completed. Then I did the prep and painting. First time that I ever painted a frame on a rotisserie, what a difference. But it was easy to set the spray gun on a step ladder and turn the rotisserie, then paint on....

Michael.
 

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Guys,

Here is the mock-up with a 1/2” hitch pin. It looks kinda wimpy, I think I need to do a 5/8 or 3/4 pin.

What do ya think?
Welcome to the 21st Century! Nice work Geoff.
 

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Guys,

Here is the mock-up with a 1/2” hitch pin. It looks kinda wimpy, I think I need to do a 5/8 or 3/4 pin.

What do ya think?
I would weld a tube between the two tabs, so they support each other.
 

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Did any of you see the photos of the rotisserie that Flynman posted for sale earlier in the week? Lots of good design ideas that address many things discussed here.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I would weld a tube between the two tabs, so they support each other.
They really don’t have a lot of pressure on them unless the car is wildly off balance.
Also, They’ll be 1/4” thick tabs and I want to put a spring between the tabs. :tu


I would like to create some balancing adjustors but don’t want to get too sidetracked unless it will be cheap and simple. (It’s not that hard to get the body to balance using this rotisserie)

I could use some acme threaded rod and weld/pin a nut on one end but not quite sure how to make it work smoothly without getting some stuff machined.

They sell these two balance adjuster rods but I will still have to fabricate brackets. They will probably cost nearly $150 bucks by the time I get them shipped to me.

Anybody got any cool/inexpensive ideas that I can source the hardware easily?
 

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The problem with using a hydraulic jack or a threaded rod is not with either of those mechanisms per se. It's about the friction they have to overcome with typical telescoping tubing fits and forces applied that are not in line with the motion. That's where nice fits and bearing materials are needed.
 

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Find a local hardware bolt supply that sells just bolts will have the harden threaded rod. Mastercarr should have the rod as well.


You can get 1/2” spring pins on amazon for $12 add side gussets to it and enjoy cheap enough. These can be locked open same thin they use for trailer ramps. Can use one on either side too.

The jack and threaded move the mounts easily, the jack is
Moving a vertical load on the tube so no real friction though the tube as there is no side load, so zero issues. The adjuster rod mounts on the adapter brackets to fine tune balance so it car is up right, you move it up and down with rod for balance again will he vertical load on tube .
 
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