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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I am in need of help deciding the parts needed to get my 57 belair hardtop on the road. My dad bought the car in 58 and I am lucky enough to still have my dad at 85 years old. I am running out of time to take him for a drive in it. It's been 30 years since the car has been on the road. The car has sat for the last 3-4 years with nothing done. All the running gear is out of the car and I have completed the front end conversion. I am just too busy but I have found a guy who has built many high end and just get er back on the road Belairs and he is gonna do the work. I am going to buy many parts and have them on hand when bringing the car to him. I already have a crate HO350 Deluxe Engine(12496968). I am thinking of using an 8 3/4 mopar that I have with 3.23 sure grip. I need suggestions for transmission, radiator, power steering pump and steering box, steering column(the car came with manual steering and column and gear box are already out). I'd like to keep the column on the inside of the car looking original if something is on the market. Any other costly parts that I may need to get prior to dropping it off the car would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That 8 3/4 Mopar is a better piece than a 9 inch and would work with a 700R4 or a TH350/TH400.
That is what I have heard and the reason for going in that direction and it should fit right under with just perch mods. It is from my parts car for my 68 Coronet R/T. I was leaning towards the 700R4.
 

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That is what I have heard and the reason for going in that direction and it should fit right under with just perch mods. It is from my parts car for my 68 Coronet R/T. I was leaning towards the 700R4.
That is what I have heard and the reason for going in that direction and it should fit right under with just perch mods. It is from my parts car for my 68 Coronet R/T. I was leaning towards the 700R4.
Hopefully its around 60 inches axle face to axle face.
 

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Some 8.75 Mopar housings dropped right on the spring center pins I ran one in a 55 B modified production car held up well even with stock axles.
I have a friend that ran one for years in a Dart in the 11s with a 440 slicks and stall and never hurt the stock axles. They are 30 spline like a 12 bolt. The Sure Grip is similar design to 57-64 Chevy, 58-63 Olds 9.3 and Dana 60. Much better part than a FOMOCO Traction Trash.
 

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Mine held up well turning low 11 second times never breaking the third member with 4.89 gears & Sure Grip. I did twist the housing off the pads breaking the driveshaft cutting the brake line but luckily was at raceway park now Lucas raceway so plenty of shutdown still was interesting. Next housing got some welding in that area.
 

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Mine held up well turning low 11 second times never breaking the third member with 4.89 gears & Sure Grip. I did twist the housing off the pads breaking the driveshaft cutting the brake line but luckily was at raceway park now Lucas raceway so plenty of shutdown still was interesting. Next housing got some welding in that area.
You were lucky a buddy of mine Torino did that and damaged the convertor hub, broke the C6 in half, wasted the driveshaft, destroyed the R&P and ruined the 9 inch housing. I was a very expensive pass.
 

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Dad is 85 right? All this custom work is time consuming and I don't think you necessarily have the luxury of time. My dad passed at 72 years old in 2008. What I would not give for one more day with the man so you might consider some stream lining to get it back on the road as quickly as possible, with updates later. So you want to put a 700r4 in with a crate 350 motor. This is not a 600 hp big block stick shift race car with 30 inch wide slicks here. Its a really nice street combination that will do the job quite nicely. Why not leave the stock rear in it for the time being? Unless you are intending to heap abuse on the rear tires, and shock the drivetrain, that rear will hold up just fine, like millions and millions of them have and still do. That will be just one less thing to deal with in the short term. You will always be able to upgrade later but you get the car drivable faster which is what you really need, no? Scrub it up, give it some paint, replace the springs and shackle bushings, install some Muscle Car Ceramic Matrix Brake shoes, new drums, new ebrake cables, new wheel cylinders and hardware, new brake line across the back of the rear, and a new flexible brake line from the frame to the rear, change the gear fluid and its completely done. All bolt on parts with no fabrication or hot rodding needed. I would think the above could easily be accomplished in a day or less if the parts were all on hand and the mechanic is working efficiently.

For a radiator, you might consider Cold Case. Lots of the members here have installed their radiator, including me, and they work really well and they have very good customer service to boot. Again, you might consider a bolt in stock unit, no fuss no muss.
 
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