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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully I'm posting this in the right section...

I'm trying to use an unknown-already welded-in side-motor-mount system in this 56 Chevy which was originally used for a 396 big block. I've converted to a stout SBC and today I mocked up the new engine using the same mount system to see where it would sit in the engine bay. -I'm hoping to make this system work.

To me, the engine seems like it sits too low, and obviously it's too low as the 8" balancer is rubbing on the chassis. Can any one take a look at my photos can provide some feed back about how much I need to raise this engine to get it to fit as it should? I don't want to raise it too much in fear that the trans (700r4) will rub the tunnel. If you could provide a photo of your SBC and show me where it's sitting, that would be extra helpful.

How close am I? Raise it up a tad to clear the balancer? Or am I waaaay off with this set up?

Advice and recommendations are appreciated. I may just need to install a different motor mount system altogether, but again, trying to make this work.











 

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56 Bel Air 2dr Hardtop. Tunnel Rammed 327/M22, 9"rear w/4.57 Detroit Locker
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You're going to need to go back and up. Do you have the factory style front mounts to use to locate the engine in the proper place while you replace the side mounts with some that keep the engine in the stock location? With the engine in the stock location, notice how close to the firewall the distributor is. There is no need to worry about the trans hitting the tunnel. Here's some pic's in the factory location, hope it helps some.
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I did the exact same search a couple of weeks ago, as mine - using side mounts - also sat low. Mine damper cleared the cross member, but the PS pump not so much. @JohnDubaya measured for me, here´s what he came up with: I measured from the hole in the crossmember as pictured, to the water pump shaft. In Metric it came to 310mm which converts to 12.204 inches. I have plenty of clearance to the crossmember. Link to the thread here The 55 family wagon
Length wise, what sleepy 427 says. Being a former BB car, PO probably moved the frame mounts 1 3/4" or so forward. Most likely you will have to relocate/replace the frame mounts to make this work. Good luck👍
 

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May be putting the cart before the horse, will the oil pan clear the steering linkage?
A few here can fab / modify oil pans.
If the fuel & PS pump clear the crossmember a notch in the crossmember for the balancer could be an option.
or if raising the mill:
The tabs on the frame will need to come off anyway I would make / weld on longer tabs = mill up.
A swap to a 6 & 1/4" fluid damper balancer = bolt on, no mods.

Luck
 

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To your question of the balancer/crossmember conflict, hopefully Pops will chime in here like he did for me about 3 yrs ago. Can’t find that old post from him now but IIRC he stated the distance from the crank bolt centerline to the x-member was 6 5/8” (?)
I used that info and did some welding on my old, poor quality side mounts and all is good today thanks to his advice.

My advice is to get that distance and work from there.
Best of luck and happy turkey day to all!
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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you engine is about 1" lower than it should be and about 2" further forward than it should be. you really need to get it back and up so you do not have issues with the steering linkage clearing the oil pan.
 

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I think the height problem might be solved by using taller motor mounts if yours are the shorter ones. See dimension A on the Moroso motor mount application chart. I'm having trouble posting a pic right now. As far as the engine being 2 to 3 inches too far forward, that is probably because the side mounts were intended for a bbc install.
 

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The harmonic balancer isn't the only issue. As has already been mentioned you will likely have interference with the steering linkage against the oil pan. Your fan blade will be too low and most likely interfere with the lower radiator hose and transmission cooling lines. As it sits you won't be able to use a mechanical fuel pump or a power steering pump.

I suggest you remove the tabs welded to your frame and purchase a new side engine mount kit. There are several aftermarket kits available. Some are weld in and others are bolt in. This will locate your engine in the correct position which will save you much time and grief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thank you SO MUCH to the very quick responses and helpful insight as well as photos. I knew it would be a long shot to use the current set up, but knowing that some side mount kits seem to fit BBC and SBC, I thought I'd try.

In the photos below you can see that only have about 3/8" or a tad more adjustment where I can slide the engine backwards. So even if used spacers to move the engine up to allow the balancer to clear, I'd still likely have issues with the engine being too far forward. I did look at the oil pan, and wasn't quite sure without the steering in place. I do know this pan typically work well in a Tri-Five if the engine is correctly placed.

I like the idea of using front mounts as a template to place the engine where it needs to sit. I don't have any, but its an idea. I'll likely get another weld it kit, Earl Williams or another that will resolve this issue. Again, I appreciate the quick help on this!



 

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I measured mine during installation a while back..a SBC crank centerline is typically 5 3/4 above the frame to get the 4* down angle.

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You`ll need too mock up a new set of engine mounts to get the SBC in the right position, this will guide you to making sure your distributor, oil pan and if your using a short or long water pump where the radiator will be mounted.
 

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I used Speedway side mounts they will bolt to the frame, drilling required.
If you go this route be advise that the rubber will compress in a few years.
My fix: changed the rubber to poly strut rod bushings for a 65 up Ford Galaxie.
 

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Another confusing thing is that it's real easy to get a BBC with 8" balancers. Some of the earlier BB's came with 7 inchers, but the later ones routinely came with 8 inchers. The PO might have had a 427. That's cool!
 

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Another option for bolt-in side motor mounts. This is the kit that I used.
View attachment 381681
My car came to me with no engine mounts of any kind; the old-style frame/bellhousing mounts had been removed.

When I went to install my SBC I put a set of front motor mounts on to locate the engine front-to-back and side-to-side then I bolted a set of side mounts like the ones in the pic above to the engine. I used a jack to hold up the trans to keep things at approximately the right angle.

All that allowed me to see where to mark the holes for the side mounts on the frame, which I then drilled and bolted in place. I also measured the trans output shaft in between the frame rails to ensure things were centered. After that I set up the trans crossmember for my 700r4. Once I was sure everything was good, I welded the engine mounts in place.

I took my time to make sure everything was right, and the result is a car that goes down the road at 75-80mph with no vibration or issues whatsoever.
 
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