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Metal Fabrication and Repair questions

Hi Folks
If any one has any questions on how to or the best way to repair ,remove ,replace any and all panels you can start a thread (post your ??) or email me direct at [email protected] and we will try to help you the best we can. TriFive has set this up for you folks to take advantage of and help you along with your projects. Thanks for stopping in to TriFive .

 

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outside rocker panel replacement

Prostreet,I am in dire need of advise,Ihad removed the outside rocker on the driver's side without installing any kind of braces (stupid me,not thinking) only to discover the inside rocker needed to be replaced and the piece that is behind the kick panel and sandwiches between inner and outer rocker also needs to be repaired.How can I get the door back in alignment to shut and also to get the replacement outer rocker in the proper location? The front and rear floor pans need to be replaced as well.This is on a 57 2 dr.sedan.The back of the door is sagging about 1/2 in..When door is closed it goes in about 1/4 in.too far.Any advise is greatly appreciated.Thanks,Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Paul
Your by far not the first one to happen by a step or two.:D Dont let this worry you some time (or most ) I get cars delivered in three or four seperate deliveries and they still go together so not all is ever lost. :)
Here is a quick Illistration for some ideas on how to get some realignment back were it is needed.

Now dont forget there are quite a few ways to do this so use only what you feel comfortable with.
Notice right above the tube on the B pillar there is a drawing of a small piece of angle iron. When you get close to your jacking point weld a piece of angle (with the flat side down) a 1/2 inch above were the door seems to fit the best, this way you can shim between the jacking bar and the angle and if need be take shims out. Now I like to stress the door up a bit before I weld so when relaxed it falls into place.
Now as far as the adjustment on the door closing in to far Maybe able to fix that with a simple striker adjustment. If not you may have to play with the distance between the inner rocker and the frame rail untill you get the body mount secured.
Please keep us informed and take photo's if possible this a great post for others to learn from and when they need to know how you can refere back to this thread. :D
 

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This may seem like a hijack but stick with me here. I too am dealing with replacing the rocker area of a 57 2 door sedan. Driver's side. The outer rocker is completely removed. An adjacent 6" strip has been removed from the lower quarter, this missing strip runs from door opening to wheel opening. Fender is off. The door is still mounted. Body mounts are in good shape, and car is resting normally on tires.

I've just gotten the outer rocker off, and now I can see the inner rocker needs replacing too. The outer section of floorboard that sits on top of the inner rocker is also rusty. My original plan was to surgically separate the inner rocker, leaving the floorpan as intact as possible, so that I could then use the floorpan to provide location for the new inner rocker. I'd weld the new inner rocker to just the crossmember supports(not to floorpan yet), then remove the old floorpan. Then install new floorpan, weld to inner rocker, then install the outer rocker.

After reading this post, now I'm thinking twice. Without bracing, is this thing gonna sag on me when I cut the inner rocker out? It has not sagged so far, I'm surprised to read that Paul's did with no more removed than the outer rocker.

The driver's floorpan is not rusted through, it's still providing support. But, it's not perfect, and that's all that will be providing rigidity there after the inner rocker is cut out.

I spent a lot of time aligning the door before I took the outer rocker off. I don't want to remove the door since the door is my method to align the new outer rocker. I know bracing wouldn't hurt, but do I really have to have it here? On a sedan on good mounts? If so, can I install effective bracing without removing the door?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Byrdman
You can make your bracing with it shimmed out so the door opperates as usual with no interferance. It is always a good idea to brace were and when you can. Keep in mind even if all your gaps look great during the removal of structual panels, when you start welding the new ones in parts will move. :)
 

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I was counting on the inner rocker for support (didn't look close enough).When I removed the outer rocker,the inner rocker almost fell out. My front and rear floorpans are rusted pretty bad too,no support there either.I'm lucky it's not out of wack any more than 1/2 in. Prostreet I appreciate the great advise.I will get back to work on her next week.I will try to get some pictures posted.Never again will I remove anything related to the door frame without bracing.Thinking about welding a brace to the inner door frame with a turnbuckle in the brace.Thanks again I would be lost without this great website. Paul
 

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He he he...yeah a little. After the floor, inner and outer rockers were in and solid, I moved on back and replaced from the shock mounts to the tail pan.





Oh, and after I was done there, I replaced the right quarter panel. :D
 

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Won't have to do that much to mine,front and rear floor pans,inner and outer rockers on both sides and the toe board on drivers side.Then on to the outside,lower patch panels on both fenders and between the doors and wheel openings.Then I can finish the inside.
 

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The door is still mounted. Body mounts are in good shape, and car is resting normally on tires.


I spent a lot of time aligning the door before I took the outer rocker off. I don't want to remove the door since the door is my method to align the new outer rocker. I know bracing wouldn't hurt, but do I really have to have it here? On a sedan on good mounts? If so, can I install effective bracing without removing the door?
I replaced the floors, braces, cargo floor, tubs, and inner and outer rockers on my Nomad without any bracing whatsoever. I aligned the doors and kept checking, and nothing really moved. The body was on the frame, and I bolted the braces down and aligned them to the frame before I started locating the floors. I don't think the bracing is as critical with a sedan or wagon as it is with a HT or convertible.







 

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outside rocker panel replacement

Well guys sorry for such a long delay,health problems,and I have some good news on my problem.Prostreet advised bracing door frame,offsetting brace from the inside.I did this with a piece of 2''x2''angle,first I had tack welded the outer rocker in place in alignment with the door,I removed the tacks at the back of the rocker,placed a jack at the rear of the door and jacked door 1'' above correct location,next I welded angle in kick panel area and about halfway up in the rear door frame area.Next I re-tacked the back of the rocker in the correct location.I removed the jack and the door closes in correct location.now I am replacing floor pans and inner rocker panel. I have the same thing to do on passenger side,will brace before taking anything loose this time.thanks again Prostreet. I will get some pictures posted on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Alexp
Hope your health problems are gone and you are feeling better. Great news on the repair, I'm sure the other side will go as well. Keep us posted on your health and repairs. :)
 

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2 dr sedan roof vs. hardtop

howdy! new at this site but otherwise old and decrepid...question what is the actual difference between the roof panel on a 55 two door sedan and two door hard top? We all know the glass is different but is that because the pillars are different length/height or is the actual panel (from the gutters up)different, aside from the obvious side upper glass track being intregal to frame ect. thanks, cliff
 
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