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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks
Anyone out there have a rusty chevy ? My thing is sheet metal and I enjoy hearing what you guys are working on . So share your rusty story's with me.:D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Reborn55
How far is De Soto :eek: Hey I have often thought it would be a neat idea to load the equipment in a trailor and go on the job . But then I thought wait I have a shop here and the car is a lot easier to move from one state to another. :confused: But the idea always lingures, I do how ever go to Carlisle Pa. in the spring and shape metal with some freinds but that is only an hour and 15 minutes away.:)
 

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Hi prostreet

I am building a 210 2 door wagon my first project my first 57 and my first new hobby since I quit racing in circles. I have replaced the floor, rockers inner and outer, lower quarters and still have lots to do. I think I bit off more than I can chew for my first frame up rebuild.
 

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I'd take any pointers on sheet metal gaps. I'm working on my door gaps at the moment. My doors are hung and adjusted as close as possible. I'm useing a 3/16'' steel gauge and ginding and tig weldind any area over 3/16''. It's been real time consuming to say the least so any tips would be appreciated here. I have the hood and front fenders set but I have a issue with the height of the hood and fender about 12'' back from the vary front of the hood. The hood is about 3/16'' higher there:confused: as far as I can see I have to doors to do, set the deck lid and check it for gaps, then I can get the body back the rotissorie and move on to several other items. I'm shooting for spring to get it in paint.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Wannabe < --------(insert name here) :D
Nothing like jummping in with both boots :) hey Its a great learning experience and one leads to antoher. :eek:
 

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A55C4 said:
I'd take any pointers on sheet metal gaps. I'm working on my door gaps at the moment. My doors are hung and adjusted as close as possible. I'm useing a 3/16'' steel gauge and ginding and tig weldind any area over 3/16''. It's been real time consuming to say the least so any tips would be appreciated here. I have the hood and front fenders set but I have a issue with the height of the hood and fender about 12'' back from the vary front of the hood. The hood is about 3/16'' higher there:confused: as far as I can see I have to doors to do, set the deck lid and check it for gaps, then I can get the body back the rotissorie and move on to several other items. I'm shooting for spring to get it in paint.:D
Bruce, I would think the hood has a slight bow up in that area. They are known for getting bumped in the front at some time and that happening. Check the two fenders against each other and make sure the fender isn't bowed down in that area first. If the fenders are the same, then the hood is the culpert. My hood had been hit like I said and was over an inch high along the top in the middle. I set the hood up so the front corner was supported in the very corner and the rear was supported at the hinge mount area. Then I set a 2 X 4 up on its edge right at the high spot and hit it witha 40oz hammer several times. I did check each stroke to be sure I wasn't going to far. Once it matched the fenders I ground and metal finished it. I only had to skim it with metal glaze and block it.
 

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Thanks Mike,

I'll check the fenders as soon as I get them back off. I also have another hood I can try just to see if it fits better. I wasn't sure if it was something I had to live with or not. If I have to use a 2x4 to spread out the blow will it make the hood grow longer? If so My fenders will have to be reset?I set mu hood starting with the cowl gap, then set the fenders to the door as best I could. With the car sitting @ perfect level I measured the fenders from the frame and shop floor along with the door gap to get them in place. The door gap was real close on the right side but the gap on the left side is open too wide. Let me know if any of this is not protocal or if there is another way....Pleaseeee:D

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi A55C4
Hey gaps are tough , Its all in job set up check, recheck and check again . But something tells me you are all ready doing that .:D Hoods are also a bugger , if the hinges aren't sprung right it will throw the hood out and up were you find your self pushing rear of the down to meet the fenders and cowl . Hoods that are fatigued can raise in the mid point of the fender line wish will need structural repair and or reinforcement. Also if the front sheet metal and core support are not elevated or down Far enough can play havoc on proper hood alignment. Having to tig gaps in is a real challenge when you have to deal with all the heat affected zones created by the heat of the torch. I have many time in the past put the door in the best position with the fender and rocker to make sure I had the best of lines on all four corners
and had to trim about a 1/2 inch in the length of the quarter and wedge it out till it had a satisfactory door gap. I much prefer correcting the door skin in whole and making a new one if that's what the job allows $$$$ or even making a whole new edge of the quarter from top to bottom to make the perfect adjustment. When its for yourself you can be the judge when its a customers it depends on there ability to with stand the TIME CARD :D
 

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Checking with another hood is something most guys can't do because of the availability. Your lucky there. I would try the other hood to rule out the chance the hood is bowed first. Be very careful that the front sheet metal is square to the cowl. Your smart in using the cowl as the reference point. But don't try to get the gap across the back of the hood too tight. They will hang on the cowl when opening if they are too close. Have you measured the opening for the doors to see if they are the same length? After my 55 was in primer I wound up have to rip my right quater at the door and move the jam area back 3/16ths of an inch. Thats an easy place to change the gaps if all else fails. These car were as bad as yours when they rolled off the assembly line in 1954. I know when I see a tri-five with perfect gaps that they were made that way and not original. (Had a fellow take exception with me on that point when he insisted his car was 100% original and had perfect gaps of 3/16ths all around).
 

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Less than an 1/8'' from one side to the other. I think maybe I'm try to split hairs here. Kyle and I were just going over it, I think I'll just go after the real noticible area's. Now I think I can see that light in the tunnel again...:D
 

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I'm not trying to say cut corners (no pun intended) but it would be hard to make every margin exact side to side. 3/16ths vs 5/32rds isn't the battle you want to fight.
 

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Your absoluty correct Mike. I think I'll just go after the ares that jump out at me. Like on the door beltline buy the door handles. The gap is really close there. Then I'll more onto the hood issue. The hood I have is from the 4 door 55 I had.It was unmolested orriganal paint so I don't think there was any damage to it. That leaves the fenders? I hate to start beating on the body parts as I really have no expirence there :( As far as the hood/ cowl gap I think I have it dialed in. I had it at a bind and moved it forward until it cleared and then a bit more. The new hinges really helped a lot.
 

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Prostreet,

Thanks for your feedback. As you can read above I think I have backed off the thought of doing perfect 3/16 gaps. I think it would leave me with more brain damage :cool: I'm real paranoide of getting the car done (again) and wishing I had done thing differently. I realize there is no perfect car but I'm just trying to do this one to the vary best of my ability and I woun't know what that is until I try it :eek:
 

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That's what I have done but.... I have say 3/16-1/4 at the rockers. B pillar is say a fat 1/8 top of window frame is about 1/4 but consistant or straight... gap at back of door varries, too much in my opinion. Then I set fenderes . still gap varries, quite a lot :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Bruce
Im sure Mike will agree with what I have to say , the most important part of this whole build is to (((((( ENJOY FUN PLEASURE )))))) now get back to work and pull that gap another 64th :p
 
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