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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to know if anyone has used the shock relocation kit on a '55 where the leafs are on the inside of the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wow, not many huh? I like the idea of the leafs on the inside. My dad is old school and he said that is what they did back in the "day". And he is helping! I don't like the idea of cutting the frame and putting in/on a pocket kit, but I would like to have the extra tire room. Any thoughts from you TriFive ladies and gents would be great.
 

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I have the springs betwwen the frame rails and mine does fine. I just built an anti roll bar and am going to the track tomorrow to test it out. hopefully the car will leave even and straight and go faster. Getting ready for Pinks all out in Bristol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Speedy55, my five five came off the drag strip too. They started racing it in the early sixtys. I bought the car in the late eightys. The springs were on the inside of the frame with somesort or handmade holders(I don t want to call them brackets!) I was lucky to find the factory brackets from a nice guy from this site who did a pocket kit on his and didn t need them anymore. Huge help. So do I need to add a rear sway bar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure about that, but great question. Maybe someone out there would have some import on that!?
:confused0006:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it were me, I'd just turn the pipes down ahead of the rear or exit in front of the rear wheels.
What do most TriFivers do with theirs? (Exhaust that is) When running the leafs on the inside of the frame.:confused0006:
 

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I was thinking of doing the flip and move the perches to the inside of the frame for more tire clearance. The main reason I did not was the fuel tank. I'm using an f-150 tank mounted between the rails so there's no room. I have fenderwell headers and the exhaust will dump in front of the rear tires, so that wasn't an issue.

If you are just looking for more tire clearance (and possibly lowering the rear as well) the pocket kits out there would be the easiest and quickest way to go. You wouldn't have to address the exhaust unless they made it go right under the rear frame, then it would require new tailpipes. And you wouldn't have to change the tank and tire well.

I guess it just depends on what you are looking to accomplish. Good luck with your project.

Later,

Mike
 

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My spring hangers are custom (homemade) at the front. they have three positions for ride height/ pinion angle adjustments. As for the exhaust it all depends on where the mufflers are. Mine were between the springs and the driveshaft but I moved them forward for clearance issues (3 " flowmasters). The angle of the shocks is intended (from the factory ) to help control body roll. try to duplicate the angle. I was launching mine on a 175 shot and you can see the results in my avatar. I tested my homemade anti roll bar this weekend at the track and the car leaves dead even and goes straight.
 

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The angle of the shocks is intended (from the factory ) to help control body roll. try to duplicate the angle.
The original shock angle is poor with respect to aiding in reducing body roll. Orienting the shocks more vertical will improve control of body roll since the shock will be more aligned with the direction of movement, as well as moving them outward will help. I can't think of any modern vehicle with shocks inclined like a '55-'57.

I added an anti-roll bar to mine too but it'll be a long time before I get to try it out. Still on 4-stands for quite a while.
 

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I have my springs mounted inside the frame rails. The exhaust dumps infront of the rear axle so thats not a problem for me. I also have the original gas tank mounted in the stock position. As far as shocks go i have a coil over crossmember from a 1971 chevelle mounted to the frame. That was from years ago when we tried a 10 bolt coil over suspension. I am looking at the pocket kit mainly to get the rear of the car to sit lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys for all the info. It really helps to hear from people who have done it or are doing it. Please chime in with any of your experiences with your modifications to your leafs, shocks, gas tank, exhaust or sway bars.
 

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The original shock angle is poor with respect to aiding in reducing body roll. Orienting the shocks more vertical will improve control of body roll since the shock will be more aligned with the direction of movement, as well as moving them outward will help. I can't think of any modern vehicle with shocks inclined like a '55-'57.

I added an anti-roll bar to mine too but it'll be a long time before I get to try it out. Still on 4-stands for quite a while.
when my car was original (spring location) including all spring bushings i used to race it with 9 x 28 slicks on a 15 x 7 rally wheel. a tight fit but once you get it up in there it was fine with my 12 bolt rearend and traction bars. The shocks were mounted in the stock upper location and the traction bar had a plate where they mount. no rubbing issues. floor pan started to bust in the trunk so i took the old front motor mounts and bolted them in place DIRECTLY above the shocks and ran them straight up. tires would rub in turns after that. changed it back and it went away.
 

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If you move the springs to the inside of the frame rails, you'll have to remount the gas tank to center it between the frame rails, and you won't have room to run tailpipes to the bumper. The only way would be to put the tank in the trunk.

You are going to lose roll resistance too. A sway bar will help, but you're very limited in how to mount one, since the springs are pretty much in the way.

If you do a pocket kit, you still lose roll resistance, but it's only half what you lose by moving the springs inside.

Also with a pocket kit, you'll need to center the gas tank if you want to run tailpipes to the bumper. Difference is now there's room for them beside the tank.

Hellwig has a sway bar to use with a pocket kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you move the springs to the inside of the frame rails, you'll have to remount the gas tank to center it between the frame rails, and you won't have room to run tailpipes to the bumper. The only way would be to put the tank in the trunk.

You are going to lose roll resistance too. A sway bar will help, but you're very limited in how to mount one, since the springs are pretty much in the way.

If you do a pocket kit, you still lose roll resistance, but it's only half what you lose by moving the springs inside.

Also with a pocket kit, you'll need to center the gas tank if you want to run tailpipes to the bumper. Difference is now there's room for them beside the tank.
So there is no room for the tailpipes if the leafs are on the inside of the frame or just really tight? We have a local shop that can make any custom exhaust, but he has to have room! :confused0006:
Hellwig has a sway bar to use with a pocket kit.
 
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