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Discussion Starter #1
when I allow power to get to my rear taillights I have a short which makes the breaker on the light switch pulsate and thus my tail lights- I have made a jumper so I can take the current directly to the tail light from the switch terminal and I still have that amperage draw- so it is not in the wiring between the switch and tail lights - is it possible that the taillight itself has short in it- it is a new replacement switch as I thought that was the original problem- it wasn't- has anyone had this occurance or is there something else going on here- the headlight side works with out pulsating it is when I attach the to the tail light side that I get this draw. I can't figure out what I am missing here- frustrating- as you can imagine I HAVE SPENT TOO MANY HOURS ON THIS AND CAN'T DRIVE MY CAR- frustrating:confused0006:
 

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:hello: hi jddon and welcome. good to have you here. what happans when you remove the bulb?
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Welcome to TRI-FIVE!!!
Which rear light is shorted? Both tail lights and the license plate lights are all connected together. How are you removeing the wires from the tail light when you go directly to the tail light? As Carl mentioned, the wrong bulb can short out the socket.
 

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WELCOME

:sign0016:to trifive:wavey: :anim_25: with the project... Later, Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Electrical problem

:hello: hi jddon and welcome. good to have you here. what happans when you remove the bulb?
The rest of the lights that isolated by now so whenever we have current draw back there we end up overloading the circuit - so I am thinking there is a current draw some where else in that circuit that in itself is not large enough to pull that much current but when the taillight is added there is. I do have each taillight side isolated now as well. Don
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome to TRI-FIVE!!!
Which rear light is shorted? Both tail lights and the license plate lights are all connected together. How are you removeing the wires from the tail light when you go directly to the tail light? As Carl mentioned, the wrong bulb can short out the socket.
Either side can create the overload- I have them isolated now so I can tell what happens any time I allow current to go to either bulb- this tells me that I must have a large but not downright short draw in the circuit that has nothing to do with the taillights but have not been able to find it !- the lights don't start blinking immediately it takes a while for the load to build up and start the switch breakers to release. I am going to put a voltage meter on the dome light next as I don't see it being in th dash light which are the third set of light in that circuit. I hope it is not in the wiring loom itself~ Don
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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You can have a high resistance short which could cause the symptoms of adding load to the thermal breaker causes it to open or open faster. And it can be in the harness.
Heres how I would trouble shoot. Remove both tail light bulbs, license plate bulbs, and the dome light bulb. Disconnect the plug going to the rear harness near the drivers kick panel. Measure the resistance of the black wire in the rear harness to ground on the lowest ohm scale. Then do the same on the orange wire. If you have any resistance, it indicates a short to ground. Make sure the ground meter lead has good contact with the body.
 

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make sure you have the two terminal dome light bulb it gets power from the switch as well . :eek:
 

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Check the plastic inserts with the wires and springs on them. They can be installed backwards in the taillight housings. The pins on them are slightly off 180 degrees.
Jim
 
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