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I'd just take the alternator to one of the chain auto parts stores and have them test it if you think it might be questionable. If it was altered to be a one wire, I've always seen a rubber plug in where the two spade connectors were, or if externally altered we'd see the plug in place, and one wire (the excitor) going to the main battery hot terminal. So it appears it's not altered.

Wiring in temp wiring to run the engine takes a few minutes, but altering, or partially wiring the harness to test the engine could be trouble. If you plan to use the harness whether the engine is good or bad, I'd simply wire it all up like it should be, and then hit the key to test the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Looks like I found my OEM turn signal harness... :|

You can see in the pics where the chopped end matches the end hanging from the column. At least now I know what the original connector looked like [sigh]:
 

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That makes it a lot easier, and once you've matched up wires, spliced, soldered and heat shrunk them; it should be a plug in. But make sure you check the plug against what's in the kit first, so if it is different you can buy the correct connector, and just pin your wires into what fits.
I had to do that on my '63 Falcon as I used a '95 Camaro tilt column, and it wouldn't fit the harness connector. Just pulled the wires out one at a time to keep the order, and plugged them into a new plastic body that fit the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It's up where the OEM one was. This truck's huge, so there's plenty of space there to work. I've been studying the installation instructions, and it's slowly starting to all make sense. I'm trying to determine if I want to brave today's Delaware heat wave and start wiring things up.
 

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I've found it's like eating a whale. You just pick an area to start with, and take it a little at a time. Once you start knocking out wires one at a time, you soon figure out you've got less and less wires left to deal with.
At some point along the way you'll see wires labeled for devices you might not use, like AC, power windows, power antenna, etc. I set those off to the side by putting a wire tie through a spare hole or whatever, and simply pushing those spares I know I wont use through the tie. Eventually there's a small group of spare circuits I can later use for anything I might want to add. Separating out circuits and wires I know I wont use makes the process simpler, and keeps bundles going to various areas down to smaller wrapped looms.
Get yourself some black cloth tape also, so you can wrap groups of wires before pulling them to their final destination. It's way easier to wrap a group before routing, than it is to try and come back and wrap it afterwards. Just don't wrap any farther than what you need to get out of the truck's cabin.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, here are my observations on this kit so far. These aren't complaints by any means, just notations for anyone looking to use this kit in their tri-five truck:

1. the wiring for the 3-prong horn relay does not reach the oem relay, as the relay on this type of truck is outside of the firewall

2. the turn signal connectors are not compatible- I was pretty much aware of this going in, but wanted to make sure others were aware

3. I haven't totally dived in on it yet, but there are alot of intermediary connections that need to be crimped/cut etc., and the associated pieces and where they are for the connection is not clear at all- I have to figure out how to interconnect wiring for the 12v from the starter to the harness via a bag of misc connectors, fuses, etc.

Again, not complaining at all- and to BB427's point, that's definitely pretty much what you have to do: process of elimination on the parts/wires/etc.

One "good" point (at least from a wiring perspective): a prior owner must have removed the neutral safety switch, as I do not see one on the PG housing anywhere, and no wiring for it inside. So, at least I can bypass that one item for now.
 

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The horn relay issue is easy. Just move it to where the wiring reaches, then a single wire to the horn. Easier than lengthening all the wiring.

As for the turnsignal connections, I'd say I've found it easier to change steering columns and end up with a nice later tilt column, than to try to make the old column, and unknown condition wiring inside it work. I can pull a tilt column from a Chevy pickup at the wrecking yard and get it for $45. Then install it, and just use DD shaft to connect to existing box, or a new box. Saves headaches, and upgrades the column, wiring, and steering. You'll also gain 4 way flashers with a newer column.
If you do want to maintain the stock column, then I'd suggest you locate the stock wiring diagram and determine what each wire color is on your panel. Then you'll know how to strip that connector, and correctly re-pin the wires of the Speedway connector into the panel's connector, so it remains a direct plug in.

I've not found any questions on any of the wiring connections that didn't sort themselves out as I wired the system. It doesn't come with all the sockets, and end devices because it's a universal GM. So you do have to splice it out at the end devices. It does come with headlamp sockets, so those are not a problem.
The instructions are very detailed, plus a lot of notes in the descriptions to tell you how it goes together. I just went to their site to see if instructions had changed since I bought my last kit about 5 years ago. They appear to be the same, or maybe even slightly better.

 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks. My biggest issue right now is this bayonet connector. The big end, what I guess is the female end, is already on the 12v wire, as it came that way. For the other wire coming to that connector, you need to match up the connector pieces from the parts bag. Since you have worked with this kit before, can you tell from my pics if I have the matching connector set up correctly? It's as close as I can get to what's displayed on the diagram:
 

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Where are you using that connector? Obviously not on the steering column connector, since it's multi pin. Not sure what you have there? Looks like a female spade connector, but that could fit numerous applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
It's to be used in 2 places:
1. the main power feed wire going from the fuse block to the batt terminal on the starter (the wire # is 2A on the instructions)

2. there is a 2nd connector that requires it for the wire going to the alternator
 

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Not sure on your setup, but on mine neither took that type of connector. The wires to the alternator took a large ring terminal for the battery lead, and a two pin connector to the excitor circuit. The starter terminals are all 3 ring terminals. One large to the main battery terminal, and two small #8 to the solenoid start terminals.
This is pretty common to every GM built car I've ever wired.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Not sure on your setup, but on mine neither took that type of connector. The wires to the alternator took a large ring terminal for the battery lead, and a two pin connector to the excitor circuit. The starter terminals are all 3 ring terminals. One large to the main battery terminal, and two small #8 to the solenoid start terminals.
This is pretty common to every GM built car I've ever wired.
You are correct, those connectors are at the one end of the wires. Basically, the wires in-question are in the following fashion:

1. there is a red wire that would go from the fuse block to the starter- however, it's split into 2 pieces, by design. The first one coming off of the fuse block has the female connector I mentioned. The second piece (which would have the ring on it that you mentioned at its endpoint) has nothing on the other end. It's designed that way, so that you can run that second length into the engine compartment, and then trim it up as-needed prior to connecting it to the female end connector that's inside of the vehicle. I will post a pic from the instructions.
 

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That wire may or may not be used with that connector. Some wires have end devices to use on particular models, which may need to be removed in your case. The main red lead has a fusible link at the end that hooks too the starter battery terminal. I'd hook it there, and then route it towards the alternator, and see how close it gets. It might reach, and just need the #10 connector crimped on the end. Mine always have.
If you look at page 5 of the instructions it shows how one red wire goes from solenoid to alternator, and another goes from solenoid to fuse block main feed. So you've got two red wires, and they should be marked. Both have fusible links to protect them where they start at the solenoid. 2a should hook to 2b which is the main feed to your fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thanks for the help (and patience). I will review it all again and report back with updates.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
OK so since I am currently working from home, I was able to run out to the truck :)

The red wire with the blue fusible link is definitely installed correctly. I have the blue fusible link and connector on the starter, and will be adding a connector to attach the other end of that wire to the alternator. The funny part is, pg 5 states to "run the red 12v battery wire with the blue fusible link to the battery stud on your alternator, this wire will then run to the BAT stud on your starter". I think they have it reversed, bc that infers that the fusible link goes on the alternator side, not the starter side. The picture then shows the blue link on the starter, so, go figure. :)

So here's where I'm grappling, and maybe you're dead on about removing unneeded connectors: the other red wire (identifed as 2A), with the BROWN fusible link, is supposed to connect at the starter stud (via the brown fusible link and round connector on that side), and then that wire is supposed to travel up to the "main power feed from starter" connector, which is the boxy, female-oriented connector I've been referencing. That same red wire, 2A, is also referenced on page 3 of the instructions. Does this mean that:
1. I can cut that clunky black connector off and simply splice the 2 ends together? Or,
2. do I need to use the respective parts and pieces in the parts bag, to connect the end coming from the starter, to this clunky black connector?

And just to further complicate things, that same type of connector is what I'm supposed to connect the brown wire to that is coming off of the VR on the alternator. So, if I can cut those black connectors off, I think I'd be good to go.
 

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If you notice the wiring diagram shows the red wire with blue link going from starter to alternator. Then it shows the red with brown link going from starter to the fuse block. So ignore what they wrote, and wire as the diagram shows.
The red w/brown link wire goes to the fuse block. If there's a connector in the kit that allows you to crimp it on the end of the wire to plug it to the 2a wire, you can use it. I'd prefer to either use a twisted/soldered connection, with heat shrink, or a butt splice. There's no reason to ever unplug that connection, so why make it a possible problem connector for the future?

The alternator should not use that type of single point connector. The alternator uses a two pin connector, not single pin. So somewhere in the kit there should be a two pin alternator connector.
I see the diagram shows how to wire the two pin to make the alternator work without an exciter lead by jumping from batt. terminal to pin 2. It appears your alternator is a two wire, so it will need to use the two flat pin connector in the kit. Usually a white connector that fits the plug on your alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks for the updates. There's a vid out on youtube of a guy installing this harness in a C10 pickup, I'm going to look at that for pointers as well.
 
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