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Discussion Starter #41
Found what I needed!! In the below 2 videos, the "pre-terminated" connectors were my issue:

You see the connectors at approximately 2:10:

You see the connectors right at the beginning:
 

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i still am not sure why they added those connectors to the harness for the large red power wire, and exciter wires? No reason I'd ever want to unplug them, so I'd make them permanent splices myself. The connectors will probably be fine, but I prefer less connections that can maybe go bad later.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Well, those 2 connectors are now assembled, soldered, and heatshrunk. I will try to continue forward more tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
My ignition switch arrived in the mail today. I might have to see if I'm nuts enough to wire it up and try starting this thing tomorrow! We'll see..
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I thought you had a Chevelle ignition switch you were going to use?
You are correct, I was going to use it initially. But after thinking about it, I decided to go with a new unit.

The Chevelle ignition was in my '66 when I first got it back in 1997. So already, by then, it was 31 years old. Then I used it for a little while, until a parts car came along that had keys that matched for the ignition and the doors. So, I took it out. It's been sitting in my toolbox since then, and now it's 2020. :) That said, I figured after all of the effort that I have put into the wiring, a little more money for a new ignition switch would be a good move.

This is the one I bought- I'm a bit irked bc it's advertised as "Made in the USA" (which is why I picked it over another). Then it arrived, and right on the side it says "Pollak-Taiwan". Lol.


It's a generic switch with only 4 studs, that are easy to wire up. I also found a harness lying in the truck when I got it, and had one of these same types of switches in there, so the design has apparently been around for a while. Of course the old one not only does not have the key, it also reads "Made in USA" on the side >:|
 

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I like those stud connections. They're very reliable when used with ring connectors on the wiring. And it should work well with the stock steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I got everything wired up, got a new battery and even a new battery cable (the orig has a nice electric tape tourniquet on it from a prior owner). I unfortunately ran out of sunlight and the mosquitos started their flight pattern, so I never got to fire it up. At least I got a pic of the new ignition in the dash:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Tried starting the truck today, nothing happened at the starter. My wife said she saw a "brief spark and pop" near the starter when I turned the key, but that was all. Starter is brand new Jegs mini starter, wiring is new, battery is new, ignition switch is new, I'm pissed. Guess I'll be pulling the brand new starter and testing it with jumper cables, as I'm not comfortable jamming a screwdriver in there to jumper it while installed.
 

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Well take it one step at a time, and don't get ahead of yourself. I'd grab my remote starter switch and hook it between battery terminal and S terminal on the solenoid, and push the switch to see if it pulls the starter in and cranks. If it does, then check the start circuit from the ignition switch. If it doesn't then likely a bad solenoid, or starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Just a brief update, I ran out on my lunchbreak and poked my head under the dash, just to make sure that the purple wire hadn't come loose from the ignition switch, or gotten pinched or damaged anywhere. It's perfectly fine.

I will be removing the starter later today and checking it with a separate battery outside of the car. I'm sure it will be a good thing to do, as I have an old oem starter that I can also test, and if they're both good, maybe I can use the oem one as a backup. Stay tuned.
 

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Sometimes the solenoid and starter will work perfectly fine off the vehicle, but break down under load of cranking. Especially so if it's the main battery stud contact ring in the solenoid. So I'd test it on the vehicle first with the remote push button switch. Might save you doing it twice, and the remotes are cheap at Harbor Freight. Good thing to have anyway, to be able too bump or start the engine while standing next to it.

 

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Discussion Starter #53
Sometimes the solenoid and starter will work perfectly fine off the vehicle, but break down under load of cranking. Especially so if it's the main battery stud contact ring in the solenoid. So I'd test it on the vehicle first with the remote push button switch. Might save you doing it twice, and the remotes are cheap at Harbor Freight. Good thing to have anyway, to be able too bump or start the engine while standing next to it.
I can't tell if my local HF has one in stock, but Advance Auto does. I'll see if I can get there after work.

Question: once I have the switch hooked up on the starter in the car, do I leave the key in the "off" position inside? I am guessing that this would actuate the starter gear while the key is in the off position, and therefore, the engine would not attempt to fire. The engine would only try to start if the key were turned to "on", correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Well, the votes are in....

I went and bought the remote switch, hooked it up to the new starter, made sure the battery was connected, and hit the button, and................................. nothing.

I have no clue how, but this starter's no good. It's brand new, and has been sitting in a box for 3 years. I have my invoice, but have no clue if Jeg's will exchange it or not. I also tried an old OEM starter that I had lying around, and it does nothing either. With the old starter though, I was using a battery that only had 11V on it. I figured that would be enough to at least make the mini gear pop out. Nothing.

Guess it's time to buy (another) starter.
 

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I'd doubt anyone would take a 3 yr.old starter back on warranty. That's always an issue on a build that takes some time. I have had parts I bought from Speedway that were nearly a year old, and they took them back for a credit, or if missing pieces they sent me what I was missing. But most places wont warranty anything after one year.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Well, you'll love this one.... after I posted the above, I ordered a new starter online. I go out afterward and remove the current starter, so that I can start fresh when the new one arrives. For giggles, I hook up jumper cables to the starter while it's out... First I put the red on the solenoid tab, and the gear pops out like it should.. I'm like wait. WHAT? I then move the positive end of the jumper cable to the starter motor stud (NOT the battery stud). The thing starts whirlin and churnin. I go grab the remote switch, I hook up the hot jumper cable to the 12V batt stud, I connect the remote starter to the solenoid tab, I stick the other end of the remote starter on the red end of the jumper cables, and squeeze the button and...... the starter activates!

That said, I scrambled back inside to cancel the order for the new starter. Now, I just need to figure out where the disconnect is when the starter is mounted IN the truck. But, at least it works!!
 

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Most likely it's a ground situation, or poor ground. I'd start at the battery and make sure you've got good connections to bar metal, and a solid attachment point everywhere the cable ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
After work I'm going to reinstall the starter, and add a crapload off grounds. I'll lick my fingers and hold the wires together by hand if that's what it takes to start this blasted thing, lol.
 
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