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Not the number of grounds that's important. But the size of the cable, and the quality of the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
So, I have updates!!!


1. Cleaned up existing grounds, added extra ground from starter to frame.
2. Tested starter with remote starter while in car, it turns.
3. Checked alignment with flywheel, it's good.
4. Key ignition now works.

Engine turns but does not yet fire.
 

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Is it trying to fire? If it's not trying to fire you need to make sure you've got 12v. to the ceramic resistor, and then to the coil, and that it stays hot when you crank. I've seen guys get a 12v. reading, but have the ignition switch wired such that when they turn the key to "start" the 12v. drops off the coil. So check it while someone is cranking the starter to make sure it's wired correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Yeah, I ran out of sunlight. It didn't try to fire, or even push air back out of the carb. I also have a temp gas can hooked up to the fuel pump, and when I removed the line to close up for the night, it did not appear to have sucked up any fuel. I pulled the wire going to the HEI and when the key was in the start position, the wire read 12.4V. I guess it's possible that there's voltage drop, but like you said, I'll need to recruit the wife.

I will start next time at popping the cap and making sure the timing is roughly where it should be. So dang close!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Well here's today's update: I ran up to the parts store to grab an inline spark plug tester. Hooked it up to the #1 plug, turned the key annnnnnnd, no spark/light. So, I guess next stop is:

1. new coil
2. new module

My God, this is like auto Tetris.
 

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You're jumping ahead of yourself again. You still need to be checking to ensure it's got power to the coil during cranking, and also that the power is at the correct terminal of the HEI.
Don't go buying all sorts of parts, and then find out you still have the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You're jumping ahead of yourself again. You still need to be checking to ensure it's got power to the coil during cranking, and also that the power is at the correct terminal of the HEI.
Don't go buying all sorts of parts, and then find out you still have the same issue.
Thanks- the power is definitely going to the "BAT" terminal of the HEI, not the "Tach" terminal. I ordered an HEI kit from Summit that includes both the coil and module, and while it's on the way, I'll check that possible voltage drop issue tonight. I can always return the kit if I don't need it.

I'm just really glad there's no "electronic spark control" on this engine or truck. I watched a vid yesterday of a guy troubleshooting a van that had not run in 8 or 9 years. He bypassed that stupid spark control module, and the truck fired right up! All of this electronic crap is for the birds!! I would have been pretty po'ed if I were that van owner!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Voltage to the HEI wire drops from 12.3v to 10.4v when someone turns the key. Is that bad? If so, how do I fix that?
 

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I'd expect voltage to drop when you're cranking the starter, so going to 10.4 vdc is not unusual. But I'd also disconnect the lead to the "S" start terminal when checking the coil voltage, so it wont try to crank the starter and pull the voltage down. No way to know for sure if the voltage drop is current draw, or resistance if the starter is trying to crank the engine.

And you should be able to pull one spark plug and ground it to the block and then check for spark while cranking. Then you'll know if there's 12v. to the ignition coil, and if it's getting spark to the plugs.
 

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What Vall said is correct. When the stater is engaged and cranking the motor over it pulls more than anything else in the truck.
 
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