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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone make a kit for this? I've done my homework and figured the ride is already going to be pretty rough on my '55 so we're going to go with solid bushings to stiffen it up further. But so far I haven't found a complete kit. My shop suggested we could piece one together from the local race shop but if we can buy a complete set, that'd be a lot easier.
 

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Does anyone make a kit for this? I've done my homework and figured the ride is already going to be pretty rough on my '55 so we're going to go with solid bushings to stiffen it up further. But so far I haven't found a complete kit. My shop suggested we could piece one together from the local race shop but if we can buy a complete set, that'd be a lot easier.
Stiffen? Moroso has them. Not certain of the quantity in the kit so you may have to purchase two kits to do a complete car. You can purchase the hard units from Energy Suspension and they will perform very well.
 

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I'm not sure what a solid body bushing is and don't know what a body bushing have would do with the quality of the ride.
Jim
 

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danchuk and others sell body mount sets. :)
 

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I believe it would increase the noise level a lot more than it would affect the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stiffen? Moroso has them. Not certain of the quantity in the kit so you may have to purchase two kits to do a complete car. You can purchase the hard units from Energy Suspension and they will perform very well.
Thanks Nick. I'll check out Moroso. Does Energy Suspension make solid body mounts or just poly?


I'm not sure what a solid body bushing is and don't know what a body bushing have would do with the quality of the ride.
Jim
Rubber is going to isolate noise and vibration more and allows the chassis to twist independent of the body. The idea of solid is to unify the body and frame more to tighten up the car. That has pros and cons but I figure I'll try the roughest ride and switch to rubber if I can't handle it.

The rubber/poly/solid body mounts have been discussed/debated a lot over on pro-touring.com.
 

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I changed out my rubber body bushings to the energy suspension poly bushings..could not tell any difference in noise or vibration but it did stiffin up the road / driving feel of the car:)



 

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Can`t see how the solid ones would be any stiffer or different from the poly ones. I installed the poly ones on my 57 from www.p-s-t.com and they don`t seem to add anymore noise to it.
Terry
 

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Everyone is missing the point I think. I am looking for them also because I want to minimize body movement under a hard 8500 rpm launch on my 56. I could care less about the noise or the ride quality. It only lasts 10 seconds. But I am tired of re tightening bolts and replacing distorted urethane bushings.
 

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Everyone is missing the point I think. I am looking for them also because I want to minimize body movement under a hard 8500 rpm launch on my 56. I could care less about the noise or the ride quality. It only lasts 10 seconds. But I am tired of re tightening bolts and replacing distorted urethane bushings.
The poly ones are very stiff. Can`t see how they would give any. ;)
Terry
 

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Thanks Nick. I'll check out Moroso. Does Energy Suspension make solid body mounts or just poly?




Rubber is going to isolate noise and vibration more and allows the chassis to twist independent of the body. The idea of solid is to unify the body and frame more to tighten up the car. That has pros and cons but I figure I'll try the roughest ride and switch to rubber if I can't handle it.

The rubber/poly/solid body mounts have been discussed/debated a lot over on pro-touring.com.
Just poly. I understand your need. I think building them similar to stock unit but reversing the order of assembly by having the larger unit with the spud on it on top. Made from aluminum, and a thru hole of say .406 should hold the body in check from fore/aft movement but the only drawback I see besides the single shear is stock rubber or poly replacements have a large enough hole in the central tube to allow for misalignment. If Moroso units are available still for trifives, they may have a pretty big hole and some shift may still be realized, certainly better than poly or rubber trying to be cut in half. As mentioned, I can build to order if needed. One of the resident engineers here will have more accurate info relative to design and then you can go from there.

Stock Units or poly image below.
 

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I see the point the OP is trying to get across here, but the fact of the matter is the tri-five chevy body is kind of a limp noodle. In the late eighties I spent 3 days on a lathe making interlocking solid mounts for a 55 2 door sedan. in the end it did not help the car 1 bit, 60 foot time did not change at all, the only thing that happened was over a years time the door gaps went to crap, the back window nearly popped out and the windshield cracked. this was a car raced about every 3 weeks. this was a mid 10 second car, nothing fancy just a 396 and a th400 with a transbrake. eventually we put polyurethane mounts back in it and a serious cage designed to stiffen the chassis, that helped. 60foot got a little better and the car was more consistent, best of all the windows stayed in and the door gaps stayed put.
 

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I think I should forget all this Nostalgia crap and build it like a real race car with the body solidly tied into the roll cage. And try the Urethane. The rubber ones are about like hard black mud after a couple years.
 

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I think I should forget all this Nostalgia crap and build it like a real race car with the body solidly tied into the roll cage. And try the Urethane. The rubber ones are about like hard black mud after a couple years.


Agree!


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I think I'll try the Urethane. Let the suspension do the work and not have to depend on body mounts to absorb shock and vibration.
 

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An 8500 rpm launch seems to indicate a fairly serious race car or a shocking lack of mechanical empathy. Assuming the former, a cage tied to the frame is the answer, for safety and function.
 

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If you had a front subframe car (like a Camaro) these would help (along with subframe connectors).

You would be better off stiffening your frame and using good poly mounts that are short so they lower the body closer to the frame.

The aluminum solid mounts you are considering for your full-frame car will not give you any real gains and actually give you more NVH grief than you think.

Are you making a 100% track car ONLY....for professional auto-x?

I have a good amount of experience on protouring type cars and this is probably a bad idea for you.

Steve
 

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