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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guy's,

I know that both of these questions have been answered before, but I can't seem to find them again.
First off, I had originally thought of doing a pocket spring kit on the 57 I'm building, but lately have thought of just moving the springs inboard. One of the gentlemen I spoke to on here had said the he had to remove the spare tire tub for clearance. I would like to stay away from cutting the car (body) up if possible.
What are the ins & outs of moving the springs inboard? Is it just as safe and handle just as well?

Next, I was running numbers on Chevynuts spreadsheet in order to find the max width wheel/tire combo I could run.
How accurate is this spreadsheet, and how much clearance is needed on each side of the tire?
From what it says, if I move the springs inboard and have the rear cut to 57" I can run a 10" wheel with up to a 305 tire and still have 1/4" clearance on each side. Would that be sufficient clearance?

Thanks for your help,
KK
 

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The spreadsheet is accurate if the numbers in it are accurate. The numbers for a stock car are average or nomimal, few cars are on the money. So you need to measure your car and plug those numbers in.

On the pocket kit, you can't run tailpipes out to the bumper without getting rid of the spare tire well and centering the gas tank.

I would recommend 1" clearance to the fenders, 3/4" to the springs, as a goal. You might be able to live with 1/2" clearance in some areas but not to the fenders.
 

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Something to think over.

If you have 1/2" clearence to the fender lip and a tire with any sidewall to them it is very possible for the tire to compress, the sidewall bulge and contact the fender.

I'm just as quilty as anyone in younger days I too ran wheels/tires that were TOO close the lip on the quarter panels and a bump in the road caused the tire to contact the lip.
:eek:

Who hasn't see someone with wider tires on their car the sidewalls were all scraped up from this very thing happening to their car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Back when my Dad drove the car in the early 60's he and one of his friends rolled the fenders with a wooden baseball bat.
I'm not exactly sure how much more room this gave me, so I'll have to get out the tape and see.
I don't think that I would want to go with the 305 tire and the 1/4" clearance, but a 295 would leave .44" clearance on both sides, (according to the spreadsheet) and that's before the extra room from the rolled lip. As long as it didn't rub the frame I think that I would be in good shape.

Also, on Chevyuts spreadsheet it says that tire height doesn't matter, but I have seen cases where it has changed the overall width of the tire drastically. (I believe that it effects every tire that way but not sure)

KK
 

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KK is the rearend still stock width? If so the 295 is going to be a tight fit even with rolled fender lips. I have aftermarket 15x8 rallys on mine with a 295-50x15 tire on them. The aftermarket rally has 4 1/2" backspacing. The driver side has about 1/2-5/8" clearance to the quarter panel, with no rub issues showing. My springs are in stock location and i have 1/2" between them and the tire sidewall.
Terry
 

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that I would be in good shape.

Also, on Chevyuts spreadsheet it says that tire height doesn't matter, but I have seen cases where it has changed the overall width of the tire drastically. (I believe that it effects every tire that way but not sure)

KK
That's why it says to input your actual tire section width if you have it. The spreadsheet only converts the metric size to a nominal inch width. For example, it converts a 275 tire to 275/25.4 = 10.83". If your 275 tire is wider or narrower, use that width.

As Rick said, the spreadsheet is only as accurate as the numbers you put into it. The math is pretty simple and is exact. ;)

As for clearances, I see no need to run much clearance to the leaf springs. The tire can't move relative the the leaf, so I would think 3/8" or so clearance would be fine.
 

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I did a spring pocket on my last frame under my 55. It was easy to make all the pieces and did mining tubs. If you do a decent job on your tubs it hard to tell it was ever done. If you want wider tires I would highly recommend the tubs. I also remember clipping a few spring in the rear seat and tacking with the MIG to fit the tubs Either way your spare tire well will have to go and gas tank moved to the center. I don't think I would even consider moving the springs inside the frame rails :eek:

Hope this was some help :confused0006:
Good luck :tu
 

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Like Tuned55 said.
If your going to move the springs, Do the tubs as well.
It just goes hand in hand. Heres a few pics that might help.
_______________
Mike









 

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Laddyboy,
What size tire are you running in this pic you posted?

I've been lurking on this post and have looked at numerous cars that had this mod done and have one question: does the part of the inner fender well in front of the bulkhead really need to be done? I've seen a couple of cars that they didn't and they were running a 335 tire, no problem.
 

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Laddyboy,
What size tire are you running in this pic you posted?

I've been lurking on this post and have looked at numerous cars that had this mod done and have one question: does the part of the inner fender well in front of the bulkhead really need to be done? I've seen a couple of cars that they didn't and they were running a 335 tire, no problem.

The tire size is 325 - 28"tall x 15

And yes there is room in the front of the inner fender well but it
was easier to do the whole tub.
___________________
Mike
 
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