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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The initial issue has bee solved Please refer to page 2 for new issue Thanks

Hi All, This may not be the correct forum to raise this question, If so please redirect to correct forum thanks.
Due to Australian engineers being not so flexible to steering mods I have a question regarding a standard steering box.
I have read many threads regarding steering set ups and the posts regarding factory fixes for the standard box leaking.
I have my steer box disassembled and found very little lube and some pretty cruddy 50+ year old grease. All components are in exceptional shape considering age and condition of box.
The factory fix i have found, was to fill the steer gear with wheel bearing grease.
This is fine except the instructions in the manual state to fill with gear oil.
So with that said i need to ask What do i reassemble and lube the ball block with?
If grease, would that not bind the balls and stop them flowing through the block?
If oil then fine, except when the rest of box is filled with grease and the oil drains out would they not have lube?
If dry like the book says how does the grease get in to lube them?
The obvious mod would be to re rig for power steering like a 500 or 600 steer box and new column however at this point in time i do not have the funds for the conversion let alone the engineers fees.
Anyone know how to combat my dilemer?
Thanks in advance David
 

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Mouse: You are correct, the factory did switch the recommendation lube from gear oil to wheel bearing grease after many complaints of leaks. I would suggest after cleaning everything up to pre-grease all the bearings with a coating of a good brand bearing grease prior to assembly. After assembly fill the box almost full of the same grease via the filler plug. You can even install a zerk grease fitting into the threaded fill hole, as many have done.

I have been running my 57 for over thirty years with just bearing grease and no problems.

Keep in mind there is only a little rotational movement inside this box and it is relatively slow compared to a wheel bearing; which by the way lasts for many years using the same lube.

Ken 57bowtie-trifive
 

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Has anyone used the after market ball bearing idler arm on a standard steering car? If so, did it significantly improve the ease of steering.
 

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David the original idea was that the oil would remain in the steering box, but after due course they leaked and of course not repaired or re filled.

The grease option would be better as it will remain in the steering box. Because of what the grease is made of you`ll find that it will lube all the components as it will soften up (liquefy) depending on the exterior conditions.

Like grease on the bearings & racers of the front wheel bearings the grease can liquefy depending on its application.
 

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David, Chevrolet changed from oil to a grease type lube in Jan 57, there was a technical service change issued at that time. GM no longer makes that lube but the best substitute is a product made by Penrite called Steering Gear Lube. Penrite is an Aussie company so you should easily find it. Use it to lube the parts as you assemble the gear, then fill up the case with it after assembly.
 

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Has anyone used the after market ball bearing idler arm on a standard steering car? If so, did it significantly improve the ease of steering.
I know you didn't mean to hijack this thread, but it's better to start a new thread for different topics.

Idler bearings have pros and cons. If you have manual steering (no power steering of any variety) it does help with low speed turns like parking etc. Speeds above that it really has no effect. But you do lose one component of steering return when you eliminate the rubber bushings, which have a torsional value when the wheels are turned, helping the steering linkage return to center.

Installing the bearings on a car with power steering has no advantage.
 

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I apologize for the hi-jack. I am new here and did not intend it. I thought the question I asked was relevant since the thread was related to standard steering issues.

Sorry, I will be start a new thread next time.

Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BTT

Hi All Bringing this back to the top for another issue i have found and would like some input on, Should i post in a new seperate post ? Or if req Can a mod please correct for me Thanks.
History
I have followed the feedback and have successfully stripped,cleaned,serviced and reassembled my steer box with i feel 100% success.
My issue now is when i went to install the pitman arm, i find the ball with a bit of unusual wear.
So i have now Measured the "Ball" and found it to be slightly out of round however within specs.
I then turned my attention to the drag link (Relay rod) and found the ball seats also to have a considerable amount of wear. No issue, i think to myself just purchase a repair kit for it, cant find one within the vendors inside or outside the forum. OK lets see what i can do, so back out to the garage for further inspection (F fill in the rest:) ) INNER SPRING IS BROKEN.
What to do now?
Does anyone do a repair kit including the springs ?
I have found the outer cover and seal only.
Will i have to procure a new pitman arm as well ?
Will i have to purchase a complete drag link (relay rod)?
Keep in mind the relay rods i have found do not appear to have the seats and springs included

Please help
I am now in sulk mode and do not want to play anymore, all i wanna do is take my bat and ball and go home :(
 

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The drag link kit I bought had socket or cup halves and springs. The problem was the surface finish on the sockets was very rough. Not usable in my opinion. I only used the springs out of the kit.

Regarding the ball, member Stoned1964 in Bendigo has made some replacements. I bought one and appears great quality. I've not used it as mine is fine, just purchased as a spare for future RHD drag link repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The drag link kit I bought had socket or cup halves and springs. The problem was the surface finish on the sockets was very rough. Not usable in my opinion. I only used the springs out of the kit.

Regarding the ball, member Stoned1964 in Bendigo has made some replacements. I bought one and appears great quality. I've not used it as mine is fine, just purchased as a spare for future RHD drag link repair.
Hi Matt,
Where did you get the kit ?? Thanks David
 

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Hi Matt,
Where did you get the kit ?? Thanks David
I bought it from Mutton Hollow. But I have to stress I'm very happy with Mutton Hollow and their products. This was only one item out of approximately 60 part numbers I had any issue with. Given our distance it wasn't worth following up. Between it and my parts I had enough bits to put mine together.
 

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David
I'm sure Danchuk carries the rebuild kit, but cannot find it in their online catalog. A quick ebay search shows a few, ranging from $39.85 up to about $75. Best price is from Mike's Chevy parts - ebay item # 370647072419. Mike's ships down here and is good to deal with. That kit is all you need to repair inside the drag link, and one of stoned's new balls if you need one.
Cheers, Des
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE

Purchased this kit, It arrived today Very happy i can now update the steering for new parts thanks Guys

Thanks also to Mike chevy parts he combined the postage for me with some other gear i purchased. Could not be happier. Now to sort my exhaust issues. :)
 
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