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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now here is a pic of the rt front frame assy that supports the front bumper. I new when I purchased this was there. Its ok, as it is hidden under the lower radiator splash panel, but, in the next 2 photos I found some bad news.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now, here is a shot of the rt side lower control arm. Once upon a time, this beauty must have taken a shot to the rt front. The lower control arm bolts have been welded in as you can see here, not a bad job actually. The car actually drove straight and was able to be in alignment as well, but here's my dilemma in the next pic.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Heres the under side. As you can see the studs are good. They were very tight and I got them loose with fracturing the weld. The two rear came right out. The rear of the cntl arm is off, but the front seems seized on here. Now, I dont want to damage this, but want it off. any ideas are welcome here. I am gonna soak them for a few days and try a light air chisel. Maybe after a few days I'll tackle it again, but Im at a standstill right now. The other side will be fine. It took 3.5 hrs to get this far.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is my last post. Im even wondering if some of the weld ran into the bolts. If so, can I get new bushings on this side lower without taking it of??? IDEAS?
Thanks all. I hope you can click on the photos to see them bigger. Talk soon.
Phil...
 

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I seriously doubt that some of the weld ran down. My thinking would be more toward the bolts being just a little bit off square to the bolt holes therefore causing a wedging effect. This area is also prone to tearing out, especially if disc brakes are added to the front. I built some reinforcement pieces for this area myself.
Terry
 

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rebuilt the front of the 150 a couple years ago, the Bel Air is very due...

...and this thread has me psyched to do it :D
 

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This is my last post. Im even wondering if some of the weld ran into the bolts. If so, can I get new bushings on this side lower without taking it of??? IDEAS?
Thanks all. I hope you can click on the photos to see them bigger. Talk soon.
Phil...

(Quote)can I get new bushings on this side lower without taking it of??? IDEAS?

I dont think so, it took some serious work to get mine off the a-arm shaft, due to the fact that i didnt have access to a press. Those bushings latch onto the arm pretty tight.


It looks like a big hammer might rattle the a-arm off of the bolts. From the picture it looks that way.

Keith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good news! Got it off this am by aiming top down with my little home depot 14.99 air chisel! Terry, you were correct. There was a little weld bead around the lip about a 1/32 that the chisel rammed through, but when I got it off, the two bolts that were welded in are in fact crooked, getting it back on will be a b---- but I am going to weld a brace on. Do you have any pics of yours for ideas? Keith, you were also correct, theres no way I would have gotten the bushings in. Luckily, we have a press at work so I should not have a problem now.
Also, I am getting new uppers that add 5 degrees of caster. Should I put new lowers??? To save 400.00 I thought I'd just refinish them since there kinda hidden. Will new lowers add the the overall ride quality?
Phil...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is what was under that lower cntl arm. Can you belive I was driving this! Talk about the rt wheel tearing off. Now please look at the next pic also...
contl arm 1.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now, Terry, still waiting to see pics or hear your ideas, but here's mine. If I cut some steel stock, say the size of this cardboard template, and drill two or maybe even three holes through it, weld it to the lower cntl arm support on the bench, and bolt it to the frame by reach in that hole there, wont this help. Of course I will only use hardened hardware. Waddaya think guys?
cntrl arm 2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Please tell me if Im getting too carried away with all these pics. Thought it might be helpful for others sometime.
Phil...
 

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fiftee6,
Keep the photo's comming! They are a huge help when discussing specifics. Have you tried to contact Steve in the "metal Fabrication" area? He may have experience in this area also.
As far as lower arms go.......I would purchase both arms, upper and lower, from the same manufacturer. Most companies engineer them to work with each other. I know it's a matter of economics for most of us. I would do them both now..........knowing I have the winter to work on it and pay for it! Good luck.

Tom
 

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Yep, the photos are great.

Liking the template you made for reinforcement, looks like it will work.

I was thinking of the tube a-arms sometime later down the road. I would do the same thing, buy a complete kit (uppers & lowers).
 

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I seriously doubt that some of the weld ran down. My thinking would be more toward the bolts being just a little bit off square to the bolt holes therefore causing a wedging effect. This area is also prone to tearing out, especially if disc brakes are added to the front. I built some reinforcement pieces for this area myself.
Terry
Hey Terry
Do you have any pictures of your reinforcement pieces. I just put front disc on and would like to see what you did.
John
 

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On my reinforcement piece i cut it t o fit on the upper part of the crossmember and the had it welded all the way around and on the underside to the crossmember. I cut it out of 1/4" steel and then ran the bolt through it. MikeKy55 had a pic of one ripped out so thats why i did mine.
Terry
 

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Hey Phil
I just finished my front end and asked the same questions about control arms. I was told if you are using power steering then us enew uppers but there is no advantage to use new lowers except they look good.
John
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