Chevy Tri Five Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so.. my starter does this. It's the old style pointy starter the bolts to the flywheel housing.

I have different brushes in it and it spins every time now, but it's having problems engaging. Does anyone know what that part is so I can buy a replacement? I don't wana chew up my flywheel :p3:

thank you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
I hear your solenoid engaging. New brushes, great, but the armature may need a clean up w/ crockus cloth or fine wet dry. I suspect the brushes are being insulated by arc deposits where the brushes contact the armature.
If that looks clean and shiny then start checking for 12 v at the large cable at the starter. If low, clean all ground strap connections, ck bat voltage and any corrosion on the bat cables.
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I hear your solenoid engaging. New brushes, great, but the armature may need a clean up w/ crockus cloth or fine wet dry. I suspect the brushes are being insulated by arc deposits where the brushes contact the armature.
If that looks clean and shiny then start checking for 12 v at the large cable at the starter. If low, clean all ground strap connections, ck bat voltage and any corrosion on the bat cables.
Jim
I taken it all apart and cleaned the contact areas... this was the before pick.

It wasn't spinning consistently before I swapped brushes from another starter and cleaned the connections. So now she spins like a champ now ;-)

I just gotta figure out the grinding. Maybe the bendix?
 

Attachments

·
Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
Joined
·
25,793 Posts
That sounds like the ballast resistor may be open. It's trying to start in the start position but dies as soon as you put it in the run position. Jumper 12 volts directly to the coil from the battery and see if it starts. At the end of the video, it sounds like the starter engaged and it fired for a second.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That sounds like the ballast resistor may be open. It's trying to start in the start position but dies as soon as you put it in the run position. Jumper 12 volts directly to the coil from the battery and see if it starts. At the end of the video, it sounds like the starter engaged and it fired for a second.
yes... car is running now.. I just cut that part out because the grinding is what I wanted to focus on. Ballast is tested and good.

I'm trying to fix the starter so it doesn't chew up my flywheel. :character0029:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Bendix is engaged by the solenoid. There’s a big steel slug that the solenoid sucks in. Plunger and core could be gunked up and slow to engage, but seeing your pics I suspect you’ve already cleaned that. Nice block by the way, Maybe components are worn and binding.
In any case here’s what I have observed.
Solenoids need an air path for the escape of compressed air created by the slug in the core. I’ve seen slots in the slug or vent holes in the base. Dirt and or wear Manifest in slow actuation which would delay engagement and grind or sometimes delayed release.If that’s all clean and mechanically free to operate (not worn and binding), we need to look at gear mesh clearances. I’ve never had to check so maybe someone else could chime in on shimming. If you can get any pivot in the starter bolt pattern I would try to increase the clearance. As previously mentioned all electrical connections need to be 100%.
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Go to your local auto part store and buy a remanufactured starter (with solenoid/Bendix). I just got one from O’Reilly’s for under $60. They had to order it but arrived within 4 hours. Direct fit 3 bolt bellhousing mount nose piece.

You time and parts rebuilding your own is not worth $60 😊
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top