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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everybody its been awhile since I've posted so I figured I would update what im working on. My mom picked up a 56 210 delray this last winter with a fuel injected 350 and 4l60 trans. well it is still running the stock steering box and drum brakes so since the engine has the powersteering pump on it with the serpintine belt system I ordered a cpp 500 box off of Ebay and lines from Speedway plus a chrome tilt column from Ebay with coupler. so Im going to start installing all that tommorrow and also putting 70 chevelle discs on the front since a friend of mine gave the whole kit minus the calipers for nothing. i am trading for a booster and master cylinder with proportioning valve from a friend that doesn't have the brackets for the firewall but Summit had a set of brackets for 13.50 that puts the booster straight on the firewall not angled up like most of the brackets I have seen. I will add pictures as soon as i get home and start taking off the front clip to get at all the stuff I'm changing
 

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Cocke County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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Hi Everybody its been awhile since I've posted so I figured I would update what im working on. My mom picked up a 56 210 delray this last winter with a fuel injected 350 and 4l60 trans. well it is still running the stock steering box and drum brakes so since the engine has the powersteering pump on it with the serpintine belt system I ordered a cpp 500 box off of Ebay and lines from Speedway plus a chrome tilt column from Ebay with coupler. so Im going to start installing all that tommorrow and also putting 70 chevelle discs on the front since a friend of mine gave the whole kit minus the calipers for nothing. i am trading for a booster and master cylinder with proportioning valve from a friend that doesn't have the brackets for the firewall but Summit had a set of brackets for 13.50 that puts the booster straight on the firewall not angled up like most of the brackets I have seen. I will add pictures as soon as i get home and start taking off the front clip to get at all the stuff I'm changing
You may want to find the manufacturer of the tilt column, there are some potentially deadly ones out there which can break an leave you with no steering at all. I forget which are the good ones, hopefully someone will chime in.
 

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your a good son, can I adopt you? :tu
 

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Most booster brackets are angled upwards to keep the pushrod at a 90 degree angle to the booster when the pushrod is dropped 1" on the pedal. But that drop is not always necessary. It's usually done to reduce "touchiness" with a boosted system.

More than likely, all the proportioning valve will do is needlessly reduce pressure to the rear brake circuit. I'd skip it completely, and then if the rear brakes lock up prematurely, install a manual valve.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well it was a semi-eventful this weekend after I helped my friend install the fleetside bed on his 56 chevy/ 91 chevy caprice rat rod pickup. I got the front clip off and took the drum brakes off and cleaned up the spindles removed the steering column and tryed to get the pitman arm off the steering box with no luck and a broken puller. I mounted the 500 box and figured out the U joint I bought for the connection between the box and coulmn is way too long so the column wont even come thru the firewall, then got the brakes installed on the driver side after the stock washer that holds the bearings in on the 55 are too big for the Chevelle rotors causing the dust cap not to go on. Oreillys Auto parts had help hit with a nut a washer and cotter pin that saved my butt. I test fit the booster and the bolts front booster hit the top bolts on the firewall where the stock master cylinder bolted so need to trim the bolts down a 1/4" on the booster since there is 1/2" sticking out past the nut. well here is a few pictures and hope all of your weekends were great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
here is the one with booster
 

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It's best to use a rag joint, not a u-joint, between steering column and box. A u-joint will transmit pump noise up into the car. Ask me how I know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's best to use a rag joint, not a u-joint, between steering column and box. A u-joint will transmit pump noise up into the car. Ask me how I know!
I didn't even think about that because I am running a manual box on my 55 with an ididit tilt with a ujoint to connect them with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
:sign0020:

your mom is going to be rockin behind the 56 :tu
Thanks I hope she enjoys it cruising around and going to a few local cruise nights and shows. The body is a long way from being done but the drivetrain will be solid now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well finally got the brakes put on all the way the linkage adjusted for the booster and the steering done after waiting on parts for a few weeks. I still need to bleed the brakes a bit more and put the fenders on and radiator. Hopefully I will finish putting it back together enough to take it down town Thursday night for our local cruise night where the city let's us block off 2 city blocks from 6:00pm to 9:00pm every second Thursday of the summer months
 

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Dumb question...but shouldn't the caliper be rearward of the spindle...not forward as in the picture....at least every brake system I've seen has been that way....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Dumb question...but shouldn't the caliper be rearward of the spindle...not forward as in the picture....at least every brake system I've seen has been that way....
Speedway has 2 ways you can get their kit if you use the metric calipers they go on the back and if you use the Chevelle calipers like I did they go on the front. You have to put the right caliper on the left and visa-versa. I have the same kit on my 55 and have never had any issues.


here is what speedway says: "Just what's needed to update your classic Tri-Five Chevy! Eliminate those archaic ball bearings and gain first class stopping power all at once with this front disc brake conversion kit. Rotors and caliper brackets bolt onto your original spindles with no modification or machining required. Calipers mount to the front of the spindle.

This disc brake kit will increase the total front track width by 1-3/4" (7/8” per side).

•Uses 11" rotors and 1969-72 GM calipers (7/16"-20 inlets)
•May not clear some 14" wheels
•Bolts onto stock '55-'57 spindles with no machine work
•Includes rubber brake hoses
 

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Dumb question...but shouldn't the caliper be rearward of the spindle...not forward as in the picture....at least every brake system I've seen has been that way....

That wasn't a dumb question. You & I learned something...that was sharp to notice it...:shakehands:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 
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