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I have a customer's 1956 Bel-Aire that was complaining of the steering feeling loose. Besides some front end parts worn, we found one of the steering gear bolts broken, and the other one was beginning to pull through the frame as you can see in the picture. The car does have a power steering conversion kit, but not sure what company. Any suggestions for repairing the frame? Does anyone make a patch that can be welded in? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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This is likely from the use of the Chinesium bolts that come with the aftermarket power steering boxes. Not sure about Borgeson and some others but the bolts that come with the CPP 500 box are only good for a paperweight.
What would be a good fix for where he is at now Bruce?
 

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I had a Jeep one time the frame horn rusted where steering gear was bolted. just got some steel plate and welded a plate on side and on top of frame and drilled and used longer bolts. worked fine. probably overkill but used 1/4" steel LOL
 

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I would suspect it is likely the third bolt hole is damaged also.
Repair depends on what is found on the inside bolt holes.
If none is found a plate on the outside is the best repair and maybe the easiest.
A plate on the outside though would be met with scrutiny as possible frame issues if the vehicle was sold.
The use of what are beveled washers as shown in a previous post, the size needed and welded into the 3 indentations on the outside of the frame with welds finished would not even draw attention.
I would look inside the frame as best I could to rule out rust as the reason.
 

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Glad you brought that up. They should make a huge difference. Frankly, I don't know how you "lose" them.
Me either. Some folks can tear up an anvil with a banana! 😁
 

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From what I see, the flat washers used from the beginning were too small. Barely covers the diameter of the factory tubes.
You could get a replacement section from a donor car, but would be time-consuming and pricey. The easiest fix would be welding, and a steel plate outside the frame as mentioned.
I would also check to see if the steering column is properly anchored at the bottom, either inside ... or outside the firewall
 

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It's likely the bottom bolt broke and after time allowed the box to flex up and down until it weakened the other bolt hole area until it cracked and pulled through. I would find something like these >>>> Safety Retaining Washer for Rod End Bearings - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies and weld them into the recesses. Bolt it back together with some grade 8 bolts.
Pops idea is good and make sure the tubes (Spacers) are still there for all three bolts to prevent bolts from loosening over time. Also might want to tac weld spacers or washers in place to prevent loss (or forget to put back) when working on the unit.
 

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I had just noticed last week crawling under my car that the lock washer like you have under the bolt head wasnt squished on one of my bolts as well. another one was just loose.

werent the original bolts really carriage bolts? Im thinking about putting the original ones back in, provided they are long enough, i mean i guess i used new bolts supplied with the kit because they were shiney and new.
 

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The original bolts were carriage bolt style, and there was a square opening in the frame for them. But they were fine thread and probably heat treated, possibly to grade 8 hardness - unlike a hardware store carriage bolt which is not as hard and is coarse thread. A nut was used to complete the bolted joint. There is a sleeve or tube inside the frame to prevent crushing it and each hole is in a recess on the outside of the frame. Welding a steel plate over the holes may not work out well, as there will be voids under it, and the plate may not end up square to the bolts.

The CPP steering boxes have threaded holes, eliminating the nut. They supply hex head bolts, the square hole for the carriage bolt head isn't needed or used. I don't know if you can drill out the threaded holes in the steering box, probably can, but two wrenches will be required to tighten the joint.
 
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