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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I have a stock 454 that I want to build what are your recommendations... I want something nice that get up and goes but I am not racing or any of that stuff. If you were in my shoes what would you have done... Thank you

Semper fi
 

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I have a 454 bored .060 over in my 57 Nomad but i would need to know more info about your motor to make valid recommendations. what year is the block, casting number off heads,two or four bolt mains, forged or cast crank? These are things that are needed. FYI a rule of thumb given me by a very good engine builder is with a big block less than 600 hp and less than 6000 RPM a cast crank and two bolt mains will live just fine. i am assuming that you are not looking for a street beast, just a warmed over 454.
 

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I had a lot of fun with a 70 SS 396 Chevelle that I put a 76 Chevy 1/2 ton truck 454 with 40K in it. This had an early set of the very small peanut port heads with intake very small intake runners, I went ahead and put a high lift marine hyd cam and a early tall cast iron intake with a Holley 65o spread bore double pumper and headers. At the Super Chevy show my 14.0 ets were equal to some nice LS-5 cars. Sold this car when I started the frame off on my 56.
 

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Octane?

I tend to start with octane choice and go from there. Your ultimate piston and cylinder head combo, and susequently cam choice depends greatly on intended fuel quality.

If you just want to cruise, keep the compression ratio low. You have enough cubics to make your car pull!
 

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first thing i would do, is check the compression, and check the cam specs. 510, 520 lift will you give you close to 5500 rpms. which will give you inthe viscinity of 500 ft lbs of torque. cuz essentially that's what you are after with a stock 454...is the torque. a nice edelbrock intake if it has the stock cast iron 100 lb intake. some headers that don't restrict the exahaust. peanut ports will still give you low end torque but a set of oval port 781's or 049's have bigger runners, a little more top end out put in stock form. if you change the cam, check the cam to spring spec. ain't nothing like bottoming out the valves with a cam that is too big for the stock head springs.

what i have in my car. hydraulic cam 510 lift. square port heads...188's, came with the motor. with 2.19 intake 1.88 exhaust. 8.75 compression. had a dual plane, running a dart high rise with a 750 double pumper now. had a quadrajet, it ran good. doug nash 3.28 first gear 2.15 second gear on 3.50's in the rear. has enough torque to smoke the tires in second gear from the stop light. currently building a 427 bbc with a tunnel ram, 560 solid lift. 990 heads domed pistons.
 

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If the motor is still in the car...
A good cam and lifters, dbl roller timing set, headers, and a 750 Holley will get you started making some real power.

If the motor is on an engine stand....
You might as well build from the ground up. Pistons, new and better heads (or at least bigger valves and other head work), complete rebuild, plus the above stuff will get you even more power and longevity.

BBC's will really wake up when the right parts are added. Be careful after though because they can put your car in the ditch if not controlled right.
 

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The worst motor home long block, if it's in good condition, can make impressive power with (HEI), carb, intake, headers and MILD cam.
Next might be some old small chamber heads with better valves and springs to get some compression back and handle a little more cam.
Once you go beyond that, building a BB gets very expensive very fast.
And you will need to put a lot of money into the rest of the car to handle the power.
Then it's go to a race track or got to jail.
What is considered big power today cannot be legally put to use on the street.
(Say that, Granny!)
Just my thoughts based on what you said. A 350-400hp 454 can be a lot of fun and waste a lot of tires quick, even though it doesn't sound very impressive compared to the current $5-10K big blocks.

[Oh, nad427 beat me to it]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thx for all the help

This is my list:

aluminum pro comp heads


holly 850 double pumper


edelbrock victor jr intake


edelbrock water pump


Msd


Comp Bbc Chevy 396-454 Big Mutha Thumpr Thumper Camshaft Cam Lifters Timing Set


BBC DOUBLE ROLLER PROGEAR CHEVY TIMING CHAIN SET


Sealed Power L2465F - Speed-Pro Powerforged BB-Chevy Pistons


ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 55 56 57 CHEVY BEL AIR 3 ROW 10" ELECTRIC FANS INCLUDED


Am I on the right track also what the best place to purche from
 

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You will be close to overkill for the street. Do you know what the stock heads on the motor are? These things develop tons of torque at low RPM and torque is what gets cars down the road. The single plane manifold and large rectangle port heads will kill low end grunt. design the motor to operate withing the RPM range you plan to use the most. i guess what I am saying is that bigger is not always better with big blocks unless you are at WOT. JMO BTW I would bet money that NAD427,No show, and i have all built at least one big block chevy in our time. I have built several and learned these lessons over the years.
 

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I'll make some comments on your list, things to consider.
If you get aluminum heads, you're probably better off with oval ports, not rectangular ports for the street. Pro Comps have gotten a bad rep for quality control issues, so if you decide on them, get them from a USA company that assembles them here with better parts, and fixes any problems they find.
A Holley 850 might be a little bigger than needed for what it sounds like you want to build. The Victor JR is also (even more so) too much.
A 750 (or 830, or 850) Holley on an Edelbrock RPM or RPM Air Gap would perform well in a more streetable RPM range, depending on your cam and compression.
The Comp Thumpr cams are designed to get the sound of an old school really powerful motor, but without the big power.
A hotter (flat tappet) cam will have more high end and less low end power, where a milder cam will have more low end and less high end power.
A thumpr cam has less low end AND less high end power than you would get from other modern hot street or street/strip cams.
But they sound more radical than some of the better performing (genuinely hotter) cams, so there's your trade off.
An Isky 280 (or similar) would sound not as radical but great, and make much better power.
A notch or two milder on the cam would actually feel more powerful in normal driving, because the power would be there at a wider range of engine speeds.
If you post more specific questions (and do some searching) you'll start getting a better idea of what trade offs you want to make, and how to tie them together.

(Damn, I must have started typing an hour ago, ADD I guess...)
 

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There's some solid advice from these guys for you here. Here's mine...

1. The newer Edelbrock oval port heads flow just as well as the old iron rect ports do, without the low end loss.
2. Running a single plane intake on the street is tough. It CAN be done but works best on cars with really deep gears or really big inch motors, or both.
3. The cam......well, I'll leave that one alone except to say that there are much better choices.
4. The 850 will work if you really want it. You could run a 1250 Dominator on the street if you operate it right, but stomp it at 30mph and watch it stumble. A Holley 3310 750 will do the motor right though.
5. The pistons are a good choice, with reasonable compression.

Not putting down your dream choices, just providing some advice based on experience with bad choices I've made before and learned from. At first I thought you wanted a sorta mild motor, but after looking through your choices it became apparent that you want a real hotrod motor with some balls. Carefully pick out your parts and you'll have a real screamer.
Do your research on cams though, it'll pay off in the end.
 

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There's some solid advice from these guys for you here. Here's mine...

1. The newer Edelbrock oval port heads flow just as well as the old iron rect ports do, without the low end loss.
2. Running a single plane intake on the street is tough. It CAN be done but works best on cars with really deep gears or really big inch motors, or both.
3. The cam......well, I'll leave that one alone except to say that there are much better choices.
4. The 850 will work if you really want it. You could run a 1250 Dominator on the street if you operate it right, but stomp it at 30mph and watch it stumble. A Holley 3310 750 will do the motor right though.
5. The pistons are a good choice, with reasonable compression.

Not putting down your dream choices, just providing some advice based on experience with bad choices I've made before and learned from. At first I thought you wanted a sorta mild motor, but after looking through your choices it became apparent that you want a real hotrod motor with some balls. Carefully pick out your parts and you'll have a real screamer.
Do your research on cams though, it'll pay off in the end.
I like the opinions expressed here I would suggest an Edelbrock Performer Airgap intake and maybe a 425 HP 427 Cam. Esapecially a 3310-1 carb the 4150 style.
 

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Didn't want to get real deep on the cam issue but USA1 just gave you a real good piece of advice with his pick. That cam is fantastic and one of my 3 favorites.

A really good copy of it is made by Lunati, part no. 30111003 (old no. 20203). It's very powerfull and a real thumper

You'll notice that it has a wide 112 Lobe separation angle (LSA), that means that worries about pistons hitting valves is less. Go 110 or below and you for sure will have to cut valve clearance notches in the pistons, which lowers the compression.

Here's a link to it...http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2091
 

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Where to buy?

Thx for all the help

This is my list:

aluminum pro comp heads


holly 850 double pumper


edelbrock victor jr intake


edelbrock water pump


Msd


Comp Bbc Chevy 396-454 Big Mutha Thumpr Thumper Camshaft Cam Lifters Timing Set


BBC DOUBLE ROLLER PROGEAR CHEVY TIMING CHAIN SET


Sealed Power L2465F - Speed-Pro Powerforged BB-Chevy Pistons


ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 55 56 57 CHEVY BEL AIR 3 ROW 10" ELECTRIC FANS INCLUDED


Am I on the right track also what the best place to purche from
Rico, I have read all the posts and there are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this forum. You have a lot of advise. I would like to recommend to you that you contact Tom Miller at 559-627-6135. Tom has built many BB Chevy motors. He has helped me with mine and I believe if you want some good honest advise as to what to purchase for your motor you would be under wise counsel to talk to him before making any final decisions. If you buy from Tom he will be able to give you the proper parts for the style of driving you plan to do and will guide you through the process. He is a good man with a lot of integrity and you will be very glad you talked to him. I hope you will take the time to contact him. He is in Visalia, CA, just up the road from you about 3.5 hours. If you want to talk further please contact me at my email address, [email protected]
Larry From Tulare
 

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I'm going to echo what was said about the intake and cam. Use a nice dual plane like an Eddy Performer or similar and a stockish grunt cam. This is the best performance for the street. Trust me.

I built my '66 Charger 440 this way and it was a BEAST on the street. Tons of torque from idle-3500 rpm: where you need it. Really fun to drive.

My '55 has a 396, super radical cam with single plane hi-rise intake, etc. etc. It sounds awesome but has almost NO power under 3000 rpm. Above that, it's an animal, but I almost never run it past 3500 rpm.
 
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