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1956 Nomad
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 56 nomad that was restored through the 80s and 90s. The car was painted with Dupont single stage paint in 1988 in South Dakota. The car was moved to Virginia in 1992 and about 4 years later once all the side moulding was installed it began to spiderweb and crack all over the place. The painter says he may have messed up the mix or there was something on the metal that kept the paint from sticking properly.

My dad has let the car sit for a while since he has no time for fixing paint, so I have moved it to my house and will start taking it apart and getting it stripped and repainted.

What is the best method for stripping off this old paint? I was thinking aircraft stripper, some scrapers, and 3M pads. I want to get this down to bare metal and primed as quick as possible to keep the surface rust from forming.
 

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I've used Aircraft stripper and it works good. Take a DA sander and some 80 grit to the finish first to rough it up, it helps. Now that it's summer, you can ever cover the stripper with saran wrap to keep it from drying out. I like to use razor blades on one of those window scrapers to scrape off the mess. Do, for example the roof, get it all cleaned off, scrub it good with soapy water. Dry it well, wipe down with wax & silicone remover then get a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. Then move to the hood or some other "top" area, save your vertical surfaces for last. :anim_25:
 

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I've used Aircraft stripper and it works good. Take a DA sander and some 80 grit to the finish first to rough it up, it helps. Now that it's summer, you can ever cover the stripper with saran wrap to keep it from drying out. I like to use razor blades on one of those window scrapers to scrape off the mess. Do, for example the roof, get it all cleaned off, scrub it good with soapy water. Dry it well, wipe down with wax & silicone remover then get a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. Then move to the hood or some other "top" area, save your vertical surfaces for last. :anim_25:
That's what I done on my 57 to remove 2 original coats of Imron DuPont and a coat of Sherwin Williams sunfire 421. OH and Howdy Neighbor , I think your the closest Tri-fiver to me. Welcome
 

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I've used Aircraft stripper and it works good. Take a DA sander and some 80 grit to the finish first to rough it up, it helps. Now that it's summer, you can ever cover the stripper with saran wrap to keep it from drying out. I like to use razor blades on one of those window scrapers to scrape off the mess. Do, for example the roof, get it all cleaned off, scrub it good with soapy water. Dry it well, wipe down with wax & silicone remover then get a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. Then move to the hood or some other "top" area, save your vertical surfaces for last. :anim_25:
the above method works very well. if you don't like chemicals you can use a heat gun and the same razor blade scraper mentioned above. while it is much slower it does work. just won't get you as clean of metal and will require a final sanding to remove the last bits primer.
 

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I too have a Nomad. Gotta love them cars!!! You have to make a decision on how far you want to go on this repaint. Are you going to change colors? Take off the trim? How are you going to strip the paint ,sand ,chemicals or blast. You got a lot of choices.:anim_25:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I too have a Nomad. Gotta love them cars!!! You have to make a decision on how far you want to go on this repaint. Are you going to change colors? Take off the trim? How are you going to strip the paint ,sand ,chemicals or blast. You got a lot of choices.:anim_25:
The trim is in the process of being removed now, my dad had started removing bumpers, trim, etc. before stopping work on it. We will be keeping same colors, but most likely go with a base/clear paintjob.
 

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The trim is in the process of being removed now, my dad had started removing bumpers, trim, etc. before stopping work on it. We will be keeping same colors, but most likely go with a base/clear paintjob.
If you have a two paint job, make sure you know where the break in colors are.
 

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If you have a two paint job, make sure you know where the break in colors are.
Angs is right. It very important for the lines to be right. Also,if you are going to remove the stainless around your back/side windows you'll have to remove the inside trim, window brackets and windows. It is a big job on its own, but be very careful not to break the curved glass.Take PLENTY OF PICTURES FOR YOUR REFERENCES. Document each part that way you will know where it goes. When you reinstall get new seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We will have to look at condition of the paint around the windows and such. I have a feeling that the india ivory is the color that started the paint issues. The roof and hood are fine, but anywhere that has both white and green, or all white (tailgate) is falling off. I am pretty sure the painter just painted the white, then taped it off to paint the green, so there is alot of white under the green. I am hoping that the windows can stay in and be able to do a decent paint job without pulling all that trim.
 

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As far as using paint strippers goes the aircraft stripper works pretty good. Even easier is a spray on stripper , look for a stripper that has methylene chloride and ammonia with a plastic bottle hanging on the side of the can This is the most aggressive. Spray the a paint remover on then let it set for a bit then check it with a bondo spreader and when it goes down to the primer,scrape it. Respray it scrub it with scotch brite pad nutralize with plenty of water. Now the most important part, After it's dried off wipe it down with Metal prep with zinc you won't have to worry about flash rust and metal we'll have a zinc phosphate film and won't rust for a year indoors So you don't have to rush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the added input. Will look into the metal prep because I have a feeling that is what doomed the current paint job.
 

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Excellent advice. When doing the whole car, I have found that of you do a small section at a time (a fender, hood, door etc.) makes it real easy to keep up with the process. Down to bear metal, repair, epoxy primer, then on to another section. Plus, it is not so overwhelming.

Good luck.
 

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That paint will fly off when you hit it with a Dual action sander (DA) and 220 grit paper. You'll most likely use a box of paper. I would strip off all bright work before starting job. :anim_25:
 

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That paint will fly off when you hit it with a Dual action sander (DA) and 220 grit paper. You'll most likely use a box of paper. I would strip off all bright work before starting job. :anim_25:
On my '57 I used a DA with 80- grit paper. Worked real well. I have used paint stripper in the past though.

 

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I've used Aircraft stripper and it works good. Take a DA sander and some 80 grit to the finish first to rough it up, it helps. Now that it's summer, you can ever cover the stripper with saran wrap to keep it from drying out. I like to use razor blades on one of those window scrapers to scrape off the mess. Do, for example the roof, get it all cleaned off, scrub it good with soapy water. Dry it well, wipe down with wax & silicone remover then get a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. Then move to the hood or some other "top" area, save your vertical surfaces for last. :anim_25:
I would caution you about the use of soapy water due to the fact the body has been chemically dipped in its past. AVOID ANY USE OF WATER ON THE BARE METAL OR NEW PRIMERS AT THIS POINT. Wax and silicone removers are not water base. The dry (NO WATER) method is your best(and only option in my view) at this time.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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if you use a chemical stripper on metal it must be washed with soap and water. nothing but water will neutralize the stripper.
every car that is blasted here gets washed with dawn soap and water then rinsed very well. it is the only way to get rid of the media and get it clean .

keep in mind that metal prep is an acid etch . many products will not adhere to it. clean metal with an 80 grit anchor pattern is all that is needed.
 

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if you use a chemical stripper on metal it must be washed with soap and water. nothing but water will neutralize the stripper.
every car that is blasted here gets washed with dawn soap and water then rinsed very well. it is the only way to get rid of the media and get it clean .

keep in mind that metal prep is an acid etch . many products will not adhere to it. clean metal with an 80 grit anchor pattern is all that is needed.
I completly agree in normal situations. However Andrew contacted me with a PM and informed me the body and panels were stripped in an emersion bath, to remove paint and rust. This now has left a residue IN the metal. Using more water on the metal will only re-activate the chemicals trapped in the metal. I have had too much experience with this process and it's inherent problems.
For this reason I have highly cautioned him about the use of water, or anything water based to be used on the project. He needs to seal the metal at this point in time.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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did not see anything about dipping . i only saw chemstrip .
i too have danced with the dipping process over the years. imho it should be against the law . unless it is a top shelf company that does it right and ecoats when done . not sure what you will seal with . i will no touch a car that has been chem dipped or soda blasted.
 
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