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Discussion Starter #1
I'm completely rebuilding the front suspension in my 57 Corvette and I started on the drivers side . The kingpin won't budge . I removed the caps , retaining clips and the center pin. Tried to hammer it out with a steel rod and put it in my press . It won't budge . I am understanding from what I have read that it is a slip fit and should slide out fairly easy . Years ago I used to change a lot of kingpins on the old trucks and never had any problems but they weren't over 60 years old at the time . Should I be using some heat on them or will it damage something ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
MIB....Did some searching on the net and found this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/4220622-stuck-kingpins.html

Hope it helps.

PS...I also sent a PM to DZAUTO (Tom Parsons), asking for help.
Thanks , i have been talking to Tom earlier on the corvette forum . I need all of the help I can get . I talked to two different shops today about removing and replacing the kingpins since my 20 ton press won't budge them and they both said that they no longer have reamers to do the job but the service manual says it is not necessary to ream anything .
 

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Did you ask Tom about applying some heat with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch?
 

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My 39 had them seized up. The welding/fab guy used a torch, and a 50 ton press.
If he allowed the heat to drop, even a little, the press would stall.
Just an idea of what it may take....GL.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My 39 had them seized up. The welding/fab guy used a torch, and a 50 ton press.
If he allowed the heat to drop, even a little, the press would stall.
Just an idea of what it may take....GL.
I tend to agree that heat and a bigger press is probably the answer to this one . For something that was originally a slip fit , it's hard to imagine how tight these can get . Thanks
 

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I've never removed a king pin yet. But I do remember as a little boy, watching my uncle trying to bang one out. Don't recall the vehicle. He wasn't doing well at all until he used heat from an acetylene torch. I recall seeing the area cherry red and then he banged them out. Glad I have ball joints lol, Carmine.
 

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There is ONE reason, and ONE reason ONLY why the kingpin is stuck.
A previous owner(s) FAILED to adequately grease the 2 grease fittings on each spindle bushing area!!!!
If these frontends are not greased regularly, then moisture will accumulate between the spindle/bushing/kingpin. The result is seizure of the kingpin in the bushing as well as siezure of the bushing in the spindle bores!!!!
I personally DO NOT like to apply heat, but it sometimes is the only option.
USUALLY, but not always, a good press will break the kingpin loose from the bushings.

I keep these on the workbench for "show and tell". These kingpins were seized in the spindles from severe rusting. This is probably what yours looks like.



This is a worn-----------------BUT WELL GREASED kingpin.



EVERY joint in these early frontends is metal-to-metal, and if not greased regularly, the next pictures are examples of the damage which will occur------------COUNT ON IT!!! But if greased regularly, these frontends will last a lifetime.






This big gap between the lower-outer shaft/bushing is the result of not being greased!!!!!!!!!!!



This is the article I put together a few years ago on rebuilding 49-54 pass car and 53-62 Corvette front suspensions.
 

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My 39 had a straight axle, and the pins were rusted in the bore, in the axle. The bushings were worn, and that was the reason for the r&r.
My 48 Ford coupe had the same issues.
 

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I've removed a lot straight axel pins in industrial trucks and we would put the axel in a press and put the pin under pressure and then heat the pin housing and the pin would slowly come out. this would be done after we soaked the pin down with magical mystery oil. we had also cut the center section out and then use a torch and cut the center section out of the pin and then use a small saw blade and cut the pin in half and then drive the pin out.
 
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