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pretty sure you can get the governor out by first pulling the dist cap & rotor so they don't hit the firewall make sure the fan doesn't get near the radiator use a big long screw driver the kind you would use more for a pry bar than actual screw driver once you remove the crossmember you should be able to get on it from the bottom & tap it out but i'm not there looking at it either good luck
 

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Some shift kits delete the kickdown cable if they're manual shift kits. I have a full manual Transgo kit in my th350 in my '37 Austin with SBC. I simply pulled the cable out as the instructions mentioned when installing the kit.
It's possible if somebody simply chopped it off, that they may have gotten it stuck at full pressure and it needs to drop the pan and fix the issue. If you don't find governor issue, I'd drop the pan and look at the arm for the TV cable connection to see if it's hung up.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Today I removed and disconnected the kickdown cable. I was able to exercise the link in the tranny to know that it was returning to off as it should. Will do more inspection on getting the governor out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So i cut a hole in the floor and got the governor out. It looks perfect. Plastic gear is good and piston moves up and down as it should. I was sure hoping that was the problem. What next?
 

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If I'm remembering correctly, pull the vacuum modulator and poke a philips screwdriver in the hole (in the trans) to feel if the valve can be pushed in and comes out under it's spring pressure. It should move smoothly. If that already feels good, I'd pull the valve body and make sure all valves are free and slide very easily. A tiny piece of dirt can jamb a valve pretty easily.
 

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If I'm remembering correctly, pull the vacuum modulator and poke a philips screwdriver in the hole (in the trans) to feel if the valve can be pushed in and comes out under it's spring pressure. It should move smoothly. If that already feels good, I'd pull the valve body and make sure all valves are free and slide very easily. A tiny piece of dirt can jamb a valve pretty easily.
There isn't a spring behind the valve on a 350 unless someone put one in but it's not a bad idea to pull the vacuum modulator reach in with a pair of small needle nose pliers & make sure the valve will move freely in & out
 

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There isn't a spring behind the valve on a 350 unless someone put one in but it's not a bad idea to pull the vacuum modulator reach in with a pair of small needle nose pliers & make sure the valve will move freely in & out
Is the vacuum modulator new?
 

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You might also unless the modulator is new remove it & using a mighty vac look inside it & make sure the plunger inside the modulator moves when you pull a vac on it, also at the modulator hose end check vacuum with the engine running (before you remove the modulator!) makes a big mess otherwise. Really after everything that you have checked after the above items then likely there is a internal issue maybe in the valve body & likely it wasn't shifting when you bought it who knows what was done to it in the past. The valve bodies on these 350 aren't that hard to go through but catching something someone else has done or incorrectly done can trick even experienced trans builders if you attempt to find a problem in the valve body just pull one valve out at a time to determine if it is assembled correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes but cutting a hole wasnt a big deal since the interior is out anyway and both front floors had patch panels. Easily welded back up.I am going to wait until I can find someone with experience to inspect the valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Found my problem. The old vacuum line was stopped up and the modulator was not getting any vacuum. Shifts fine now but took a pro to find the problem.
 

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That was the reason I mentioned checking vacuum at the modulator hose I once had a power glide out of the car twice trying to find a similar no shift problem could have kicked myself in the butt once I found it. This seventy something Nova was still under factory warranty at the time.The Nova used a formed metal line from the fitting at the manifold to the modulator with a couple inches of hose on each end. I pulled the hose off at the modulator & could hear vacuum so I thought that wasn't the problem. It turned out to be that at the manifold end the hose it was folded over on itself restricting the volume of the vacuum to the modulator boy when I fixed it I really felt stupid. Another lesson learned the hard way I had many through the years.
 

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I know they came from the factory with a steel line and rubber on each end, and I've heard many times to use the steel, don't run a rubber vacuum hose all the way, but... I ran a 3/16"? FUEL hose for the vacuum line. No problem in 7+ years.
 

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I know they came from the factory with a steel line and rubber on each end, and I've heard many times to use the steel, don't run a rubber vacuum hose all the way, but... I ran a 3/16"? FUEL hose for the vacuum line. No problem in 7+ years.
That's what I run without any issues but the original set ups most always had a steel line that necked down in size on the manifold end & the smaller end fit into the manifold fitting with the rubber hose over both
 
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