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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Several years ago I got a great deal on a set of inside door handle/window cranks.
at least at the time I thought so. Not so sure now. I can not get them to lock onto the
operating stubs.

I did some measurements and show them in the drawing below.
Most of the dimensions are the same or close enough not to effact
the operation of the units.


Font Parallel Circle Diagram Science


The location of the slot is the problem. It is .028 closer to the end of the hub
than on the original units. Has any one tried to open the slot width up towards
left end in right view above of the hub? If this were done the only adverse
thing I can see is that the unit may be loose on the stub (axially) but the spring behind it
should take Care of that and if not 2 springs will fit and should make it snug.

Counter boring the hub would be dicey at best due to it being cast and it may break through
due to the thinness of the material at the bottom of the bore to the outside.
 

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I seem to recall this is (or was) a well-known problem with non-original door handles & window cranks. Not sure if later reproductions addressed and corrected the issue. I experienced it myself a few years back and ended up re-using my originals (which admittedly after cleaning weren't that bad).

They are still on my 56 today.
 

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I went through this aggravation a few years ago. Tried multiple versions of the reproductions. They looked nice but they all roundly sucked in terms of working. Turns out the castings these are based on are a later design (I want to say like 1960s chevy) and the slot is positioned incorrectly. A couple of guys here have messed with changing/enlarging, lengthening the slot, but I am fairly certain no one has come up with a solution that is actually workable and works. I did what kbuhagiar did, I went through my originals and some spares I had and picked out the best versions. Cleaned and polished them up, installed them and they work perfectly. Btw, no one, and I mean no one, notices that my door handles and window cranks are less then perfect.

I also went through this same exercise for my son's car. We collected all of what I had left, grabbed a few pieces from a friend, and purchased a few more in the swap meet at the trifive nationals in 2019. Cleaned them and plolished them up. I just don't want the aggravation that a lot of guys around here have had with the reproductions.

With the advent of really crappy off shore reproductions, and other parts that just dont fit or work, we appear to be headed back to a time when there were no reproductions and you used the best original parts you could find and that was that.
 

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As I recall the repo handles work well with repo regulators.

On an OEM regulator the length of the post past the notch for the retaining clip is longer.
This keeps the repo handle from seating deep enough for the clip to fit in the notch that holds the handle on to the post.

My fix was to file the end of the post down until it fit.
Doesn’t take much, did it with a hand file.
You want a tight fit.
Takes a little trial and error.
.
 

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As I recall the repo handles work well with repo regulators.

On an OEM regulator the length of the post past the notch for the retaining clip is longer.
This keeps the repo handle from seating deep enough for the clip to fit in the notch that holds the handle on to the post.

My fix was to file the end of the post down until it fit.
Doesn’t take much, did it with a hand file.
You want a tight fit.
Takes a little trial and error.
.
What he said ^^^. The original shaft has a little tapered end to it, presumably to spread the clip as it goes over the shaft. I just ground that tip down a little with my angle grinder and all is good.
 

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I think I have photos in one of my build threads. I'll check tonight and see.
I did mine with a flat hand file.
Didn't take much off as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
By my calculations - the slot in the new handles misses coming into alignment with
the groove of the stub by about .025 - .028 thousandths.

My question is - could I widen the slot's in the handles (towards the left in the drawing
by .025 - .028 thousandths.
This would allow the clip to move to the left to align with the groove in the stub.

If you want, I can make a drawing to illustrate what I'm trying to say here.
 

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Bill, I tried that and for whatever reason the door handle fit loose. That was when I noticed the end of the regulator shaft was bottoming out in the repro handles. The last one I did I used a belt sander. The one below I just touched it a bit on the side of the grinding wheel. I know, don't grind on the side of the wheel.

Wood Gas Rim Automotive wheel system Metal

Table Wood Flooring Hardwood Gas
 

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Ok, couldn't find the original pictures so I just took a handle off for show.

Took a flat file and worked the "point" down a bit.
Remove just enough for the handle to go on deep enough for the clip to find the notch on the post.
Not enough and the clip won't hold the handle on.
Too much and the handle will be loose and strip out when you crank it.
Finger Automotive exterior Vehicle door Wood Gas

You can just see the "splines" in the handle.
Kitchen utensil Tool Musical instrument Wind instrument Cutlery

And the slot where the spring goes.
Tints and shades Automotive exterior Electric blue Automotive lighting Household hardware

A close up of the "point".
File it flat a little at a time.
Eye Human body Amber Circle Wood

File a little then test fit with the clip in the handle.
A good firm smack with the palm of your hand on the face of the handle.
When the post gets short enough the clip will find the groove and snap into place.
Again, the tighter the fit the better.

Edit: Just remembered that at least one of my regulators had paint all over the post and this was enough to keep the handle from fitting right.
Be sure to clean the splines on the post.👍

I like to clock my window handles so that they are all in the same position when the windows are rolled fully up.
( 3 o'clock is my favorite)
 
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By my calculations - the slot in the new handles misses coming into alignment with
the groove of the stub by about .025 - .028 thousandths.

My question is - could I widen the slot's in the handles (towards the left in the drawing
by .025 - .028 thousandths.
This would allow the clip to move to the left to align with the groove in the stub.

If you want, I can make a drawing to illustrate what I'm trying to say here.
Hey Bill,
I wouldn't mess with the splines in the handle or on the post.
They are made to fit hand in glove.
Any variation, or wear, and the post splines will "eat" the splines in the handle.
You want the most surface area for the splines to engage that you can get.

On a side note, clean and lube the window tracks and rails.
The less torque needed , the longer the handle will last.
 

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1957 210 2-Door Sedan
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Several years ago I got a great deal on a set of inside door handle/window cranks.
at least at the time I thought so. Not so sure now. I can not get them to lock onto the
operating stubs.

I did some measurements and show them in the drawing below.
Most of the dimensions are the same or close enough not to effact
the operation of the units.


View attachment 377035
I’ve got nothing to add except I can appreciate a quality AutoCAD drawing.
The location of the slot is the problem. It is .028 closer to the end of the hub
than on the original units. Has any one tried to open the slot width up towards
left end in right view above of the hub? If this were done the only adverse
thing I can see is that the unit may be loose on the stub (axially) but the spring behind it
should take Care of that and if not 2 springs will fit and should make it snug.

Counter boring the hub would be dicey at best due to it being cast and it may break through
due to the thinness of the material at the bottom of the bore to the outside.
I’ve got nothing to add, but I want to take a moment to appreciate your AutoCAD drawing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, couldn't find the original pictures so I just took a handle off for show.

Took a flat file and worked the "point" down a bit.
Remove just enough for the handle to go on deep enough for the clip to find the notch on the post.
Not enough and the clip won't hold the handle on.
Too much and the handle will be loose and strip out when you crank it.
I’ve got nothing to add, but I want to take a moment to appreciate your AutoCAD drawing.
You can just see the "splines" in the handle.
View attachment 377092
And the slot where the spring goes.
View attachment 377091
A close up of the "point".
File it flat a little at a time.
View attachment 377090
File a little then test fit with the clip in the handle.
A good firm smack with the palm of your hand on the face of the handle.
When the post gets short enough the clip will find the groove and snap into place.
Again, the tighter the fit the better.

Edit: Just remembered that at least one of my regulators had paint all over the post and this was enough to keep the handle from fitting right.
Be sure to clean the splines on the post.👍

I like to clock my window handles so that they are all in the same position when the windows are rolled fully up.
( 3 o'clock is my favorite)
====================================
see TheUSA - Great photos - understand what you did
Thank you!
================================
Hey Bill,
I wouldn't mess with the splines in the handle or on the post.
They are made to fit hand in glove.
Any variation, or wear, and the post splines will "eat" the splines in the handle.
You want the most surface area for the splines to engage that you can get.

On a side note, clean and lube the window tracks and rails.
The less torque needed , the longer the handle will last.
==========================================
see TheUSA - not planning on modifying the slpines at all.
Thought a second clip would take up the space if I widened the slot in the handle.
================================================
I’ve got nothing to add, but I want to take a moment to appreciate your AutoCAD drawing.
=======================================
ehrawn - Thanks for the plaudet - 20 years of CADAM, Micro CADAM and Helix - never used AutoCAD
======================================
 

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Chattanooga TN
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==========================================
see TheUSA - not planning on modifying the slpines at all.
Thought a second clip would take up the space if I widened the slot in the handle.
================================================


Ah, I see now.
That would allow the clip to find the groove.
If the splines in the handle came out farther that would work.

Working the point down allows the post splines to move deeper into handle and engage more of the splines in the handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK Guys - I give up/Surrender/capitulate/quit - going to use an old set, that clean up fair but are usable.😠

👍👍👍see The USA - you did a great presentation of your solution - your photos explain it all clearly - I appreciate your help and thank you!
I like your wagon - looks GREAT!!!!👍👍👍

I'll post photos in a couple of days.
 

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OK Guys - I give up/Surrender/capitulate/quit - going to use an old set, that clean up fair but are usable.😠
Well, Bill, I had heard of the misgivings of the repos handles/cranks and used my originals. As I was having my bumpers and some other items rechromed, I decided to put them in the mix. I did have to remove the plastic on the cranks, then retapped and reinstalled the crank handles after polishing them up.
Material property Fixture Gas Auto part Fluid
Wood Gas Auto part Metal Table
Font Rectangle Gas Auto part Fashion accessory
Door Wood Gas Household hardware Circle
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, Bill, I had heard of the misgivings of the repos handles/cranks and used my originals. As I was having my bumpers and some other items rechromed, I decided to put them in the mix. I did have to remove the plastic on the cranks, then retapped and reinstalled the crank handles after polishing them up.
View attachment 377211 View attachment 377212 View attachment 377213 View attachment 377214
Bill - Great job!
Did you consider using a shoulder screw (more expensive) to not destroy the bearing material with the threads or were you able to save the sleeve in the knob?
 
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