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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I managed to finally get access to my mates garage and lift, and we pulled out the PG and put in the TH350 last night. Everything went pretty smoothly, just had to do some minor grinding of the 350 bell-housing to attach the mounts from ecklers, and we had to cut of the kick-down cable bracket from the chassis.

I have access to the lift tonight, and still need to finish the last few parts. My questions are:
1. Trans cooler lines. My buddy said to buy new lines (5/16) one 3.5ft and the other 4ft. He also said they need to have one side with female connector and the other with male. Any idea where I can buy these? I need somewhere like autozone/NAPA etc. where I can collect on the way over tonight....

2. What size sheet metal screws do I need for the TH350 inspection cover?

3. What size vacuum line (rubber and metal line) do I need for a proper installation for the vacuum modulator?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I'm just guessing here, because we don't know exactly what you have. The 5/16 steel brake tubing will be 48" in lenght/ with male flair fittings. You will need 2 pipe thread female adaptors to go in the trans. If you are using the cooler at bottom of rad., you will also need 2 fittings there. I believe the trans cover screws are # 10 or 12. Probley 3/16 tubing and hose on the vacumn. I believe all original starter bolts are the same. You should be able to get everything from AZ, Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA, etc. Sorry I couldn't be more specfic. The parts store man should be able to help also. :anim_25:
 

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Hi everyone,

I managed to finally get access to my mates garage and lift, and we pulled out the PG and put in the TH350 last night. Everything went pretty smoothly, just had to do some minor grinding of the 350 bell-housing to attach the mounts from ecklers, and we had to cut of the kick-down cable bracket from the chassis.

I have access to the lift tonight, and still need to finish the last few parts. My questions are:
1. Trans cooler lines. My buddy said to buy new lines (5/16) one 3.5ft and the other 4ft. He also said they need to have one side with female connector and the other with male. Any idea where I can buy these? I need somewhere like autozone/NAPA etc. where I can collect on the way over tonight....

You can get line and adaptors at any auto parts, it will matter what radiator you have on what you need.

2. What size sheet metal screws do I need for the TH350 inspection cover?

It depend on year of tran, cover is not mandatory, I have driven 100,000 miles without one. Some years cover is tin, later plastic. My Th350 is Blazer is 3/8 bolts and Aluminum. They may be SAE or metric dependent on year.

3. What size vacuum line (rubber and metal line) do I need for a proper installation for the vacuum modulator?

Get some 1/4 steel brake line and a foot of rubber for ends.

Thanks in advance!
 

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The parts store man should be able to help also.
:sign0020::sign0020::sign0020:
I went to Oreilly's yesterday to get a ft and a half of vacuum hose for the brake booster to the intake on a SBC. What yr? I gave him info for the engine, couldn't find it then what brake booster? aftermarket, he wasn't very happy. I went to the spools of tubing, picked out what I thought would work, and was right (3/8). Best to get your info here and then go in and tell them the sizes you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey just wanted to update this thread.

We ended up just cutting and re-flaring the old tranny cooler lines, as they seemed in OK condition. These took a bit of convincing but ended up fitting well.

The reman starter from Advance Auto bolted up ok, but required some shimming to get to fit right. I still haven't tested it yet so I'll update again when I do.

One problem that I came across was with the tailshaft. It's too long by about 1 inch. When I measured the PG vs TH350 it looked like they measured the same (or the TH was about 1/4" longer). However when I put in the tailshaft now, I need to push the yolk in all the way, and am still just too long to fit the rear uni. I never noticed, but the yolk must have been pushed in the entire way into the PG. Also, with the car on the lift and the rear end low, the tailshaft now hits the park-brake assembly. Again, not by much but still concerning. All the angles look ok.

So still need to shorten the tailshaft, add the vacuum line, inspection cover, adjust the shift linkage and refit my exhaust. Will have to wait until the weekend now.
 

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Hey just wanted to update this thread.

We ended up just cutting and re-flaring the old tranny cooler lines, as they seemed in OK condition. These took a bit of convincing but ended up fitting well.

The reman starter from Advance Auto bolted up ok, but required some shimming to get to fit right. I still haven't tested it yet so I'll update again when I do.

One problem that I came across was with the tailshaft. It's too long by about 1 inch. When I measured the PG vs TH350 it looked like they measured the same (or the TH was about 1/4" longer). However when I put in the tailshaft now, I need to push the yolk in all the way, and am still just too long to fit the rear uni. I never noticed, but the yolk must have been pushed in the entire way into the PG. Also, with the car on the lift and the rear end low, the tailshaft now hits the park-brake assembly. Again, not by much but still concerning. All the angles look ok.

So still need to shorten the tailshaft, add the vacuum line, inspection cover, adjust the shift linkage and refit my exhaust. Will have to wait until the weekend now.
Hi Stezza, Had the same issue with my upgrade. Just be sure you research before you cut the tail shaft. The type of yoke you have makes all the world of difference. I gave up and procured the correct 1310 joint yoke.
Be aware the yoke i originally had was a Heavy duty factory yoke from a 55' The reproduction STRANGE yoke is the same and they are 1/2" longer than standard, you will have to mod the shaft if you go this route.

My issues were answered for me on my thread http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101764
post on page 3 post 23 was the answer on the yoke. Hope this pick will help

Hope this helps you.
 

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Hi Sean I'm glad to see you are making progress on the 57. Are you sure the driveshaft only needs to be cut an inch? How long is it now?
 

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My driveshaft was about 53 1/2 inches long from center of u joint to center of u joint and it seems like when installed I had about 3/4 inches of yoke sticking out of the transmission. My car has a rear axle out of a camaro and I'm guessing you still have the original 57 rear axle. Maybe that's the diffrence in driveshaft length. That yoke came from a friend of mine. I don't know what it came out of,but it looks identical to the yoke in my 71 chevy truck.
 

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Looking at the prices of yolks, and the $60 locally to shorten the shaft I think shortening will be the best way to go. Considering I could buy another yolk and still not solve the problem. What do you guys think?
I think that's true. Before you go to the driveshaft shop you need to sit the car back on all 4 wheels and get a measurement from the rear axle pinion yoke to the rear of the transmission and give that measurement to the driveshaft shop,along with your driveshaft. Tjat way they can make sure you have proper endplay at the transmission yoke.
 

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If you have everything else that just bolts up but the tailshaft is slightly longer get the tailshaft shortened & balanced :anim_25:
 
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