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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my turbo 350 out due to the front seal leaking, but I also have a muncie 4 speed that is available waiting for me to make a decision. Are these the same length? I don't want to go into moving the welded in crossmember or changing the driveshaft.

This muncie is out of a another '55 and has already been rebuilt, it will come with the stock bellhousing and "most" of the parts; hurst shifter, clutch fork, linkage, z-bar, etc... I will need to purchase a flywheel for a 1 piece rear main and a new clutch for my ZZ4 motor and a install a pivot onto the frame for the z-bar. I already have the correct pedal assembly for under the dash install.

Just trying to decide if the 4th gear is worth it...


Thanks,
 

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I have my turbo 350 out due to the front seal leaking, but I also have a muncie 4 speed that is available waiting for me to make a decision. Are these the same length? I don't want to go into moving the welded in crossmember or changing the driveshaft.

This muncie is out of a another '55 and has already been rebuilt, it will come with the stock bellhousing and "most" of the parts; hurst shifter, clutch fork, linkage, z-bar, etc... I will need to purchase a flywheel for a 1 piece rear main and a new clutch for my ZZ4 motor and a install a pivot onto the frame for the z-bar. I already have the correct pedal assembly for under the dash install.

Just trying to decide if the 4th gear is worth it...


Thanks,
A 4 SPEED :happy0030:
ONLY WAY TO GO :tu:tu
 

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It ain't a hot rod if it doesn't have three pedals! Love my four speed, wouldn't have it any other way! Go for it!

Don
 

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I have my turbo 350 out due to the front seal leaking, but I also have a muncie 4 speed that is available waiting for me to make a decision. Are these the same length? I don't want to go into moving the welded in crossmember or changing the driveshaft.

This muncie is out of a another '55 and has already been rebuilt, it will come with the stock bellhousing and "most" of the parts; hurst shifter, clutch fork, linkage, z-bar, etc... I will need to purchase a flywheel for a 1 piece rear main and a new clutch for my ZZ4 motor and a install a pivot onto the frame for the z-bar. I already have the correct pedal assembly for under the dash install.

Just trying to decide if the 4th gear is worth it...


Thanks,
55 Chev; I'm getting ready to do the same thing, and I'm following your post here to see if anyone can answer your question about the transmission length difference or if the driveshaft will need modification. Any information will be greatly appreciated.....Bill
 

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If I remember right, they are the same and also use the same mount. My 55 wouldn't have it any other way. It loves having a 4 speed in it and that won't ever change
 

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If you have a short tailshaft TH350 (most units that originally came in a car are), they are the same length. They also use the same driveshaft yoke, and if you have a crossmember and mount under the TH350, the Muncie will bolt right to it.

That's assuming you have a Muncie made from 63 to sometime in 71. Later ones are the same length and yoke spline as a TH400.

All you'll need besides what's already discussed is a clutch pedal and linkage, and a bellhousing and clutch assembly.
 

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Saginaw 4 speed?

I have a 4 speed Saginaw on the shelf with the Hurst shifter, should be OK behind my stock 265, No? My car has it's original three on the tree.

Also I understand that these 4 speeds do not require cutting the floor except for the shift lever? I also have a T-5 which would require reworking the floor.
 

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you should have no problem i the the same thing but in reverse and now kicking myself for doing it but one day i'll make things right iam always on the look out for what i need. this will happen one DAY.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replies... I really wanted to do this before I set the body on the frame last year but didn't have the time and was just ready to get it on the road. Now is the "second" perfect time to change over since it is out, just looking at the price point now with Christmas and insurance renewal due on the '55. May have to take this mod slower than I am used to doing.

Here is what I brought home today...
M-20 4 speed, completely rebuild
Hurst shifter already setup on transmission, this is the one bent for the bench seat from a '55
Shifter Fork, Bellhousing, z-bar, bellhousing bracket and fork linkage

Got up in the attic and dug out the 3rd pedal ! clutch pedal rod and linkage hardware.

Need to purchase flywheel ($90), pilot bearing and clutch kit ($300). Bushings for pedal assembly and a small spacer. Clutch return spring and frame bracket for z-bar. New z-bar (the one I was given has been hammered and welded a few times) ($120). New shifter boot and lokar brake/clutch pedals to match the accelerator. ($100)

*I hope all goes well on the install, will keep everyone updated as I move along this journey. I DO SEE ONE problem so far; installing the clutch pedal in the assembly will be a major PIA due to the raingear wiper motor placement. Looks like I may have to remove gauge cluster and brake booster to get the entire assembly off to install the pedal into the cross-shaft. I will also need to relocate my driver side a/c vent that is bolted under the dash. May be a days work just inside the car disassembling only to reassemble.

I can only hope that the bottom side buttons up easily without any modifications other than the frame pivot mount installation.
 

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4-Speed, in my opinion is the way to go.:tu
Yes, sir. I love four speeds. Whether it's a driver or a hot rod, it's a four gear or no gear for me. :happy0030:
 

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Automatics:stupido2: are for Cadillacs:boring: and old women:confused0062:. If you can't shift it:love:, why drive it:sign0020:.
 

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To me, there's not much difference. First gear ratio is essentially the same and the final ratio is the same.

Since it's already set up for the TH350 automatic, I'd stay that way.

If I had an opportunity to get an overdrive and a lower first gear that pretty much all overdrive trannys (be it auto or manual) would give you, then that would be worth a change.
 

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My first 55 chevy 6 cyl. powerglide to v-8 muncie m-020 was a bolt in swap. The stock driveshaft is the same length and you only have to change out the front yoke to a fine spline for the m-20. I bolted in my ball stud to the frame with long 5/16-18 bolts and nuts. I bought a hurst competition plus bench seat shifter for it and it installs easily. I made up my own adapters for moving the radiator back behind the support. Jim
 

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Muncie

I think that if you placed "Free Help Needed, 4 muncie Swap" in your post
you would be swamped with help.

I would always select a Muncie over any auto !!! That's a major point
in having a TRI-5. Well, at least a manual Tranny over an Auto....

There are many choices with manual Tranny's these days, and
great clutch set ups as well.

I have, over the years, completed several auto to manual tranny
swaps. No one I ever helped was disappointed with going to a
manual tranny.

I've forgotten most of the "Little" items that must be changed -
But it is well worth the effort. The toughest is installing the clutch
pedal, not a big deal - But,, seems that you have that done.

If your car was a manual prior, you might have an acceptable
rear end ratio.

I've read much of the replys and comments. So your in good shape
there. As it was mentioned there are autos with different tail shaft
lenghts.

So, worse case would be a drive line change, which is not a big deal.

Now that I said what was worse case. I recall teaching my wife to
drive a four speed in a muscle car. She never would drive the Vette,
but she was so excided about driving a Nova we bought.

I picked up this Nova as a part trade. The owner was moving east
and had to sell her. She was a Black '69 SS with a Hot 427 and M22
with 4:11's. She made us [a friend of mine] get in the back seat,

She drove a 4 speed car, but this was her first experiance behind
the wheel of a powerfull light muscle car. After trying to start out
4 or 5 times without applying any pedal and stalling the engine
[ we were roaring with laughter in the back seat].......,,,,,,

She finally desided to give her a little gas [pedal]. It would have
been a great video.

She rev'd her up to about 4 grand and dumped the clutch and
stood on the pedal. She did a fantasic burn and kept going.

It took a few times to shift gears smoothly. You should have seen
her smile, she loved to drive that Nova !! She's been a Hot Rodder
every since, and endured my love of cars, TRI-5's, Vettes, a Z-28
and the Nova, miss that Nova..

Word from the Wise, Get your S.O. [significant other] Involved,

Keep us posted on your SWAP.....

Michael....
 

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Wow. I am surprised about all these comments that Tri Fives "should have" manual transmissions. Why? The all could be had from the factory that way so that's not it. I just don't see it. Nothing wrong at all with it. It's just a matter of preference.
 

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My BelAir came with a 700R4 overdrive auto. It worked fine but it was 25 years since i had a "stick" car so i took it out last winter and put in a Richmond Super Street 5- speed..just cant beat that cruising in 3rd gear at 2200 RPM..right in the "fat" of the torque curve..gearbox singing:)



 

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I think that if you placed "Free Help Needed, 4 muncie Swap" in your post
you would be swamped with help.

I would always select a Muncie over any auto !!! That's a major point
in having a TRI-5. Well, at least a manual Tranny over an Auto....

There are many choices with manual Tranny's these days, and
great clutch set ups as well.

I have, over the years, completed several auto to manual tranny
swaps. No one I ever helped was disappointed with going to a
manual tranny.

I've forgotten most of the "Little" items that must be changed -
But it is well worth the effort. The toughest is installing the clutch
pedal, not a big deal - But,, seems that you have that done.

If your car was a manual prior, you might have an acceptable
rear end ratio.

I've read much of the replys and comments. So your in good shape
there. As it was mentioned there are autos with different tail shaft
lenghts.

So, worse case would be a drive line change, which is not a big deal.

Now that I said what was worse case. I recall teaching my wife to
drive a four speed in a muscle car. She never would drive the Vette,
but she was so excided about driving a Nova we bought.

I picked up this Nova as a part trade. The owner was moving east
and had to sell her. She was a Black '69 SS with a Hot 427 and M22
with 4:11's. She made us [a friend of mine] get in the back seat,

She drove a 4 speed car, but this was her first experiance behind
the wheel of a powerfull light muscle car. After trying to start out
4 or 5 times without applying any pedal and stalling the engine
[ we were roaring with laughter in the back seat
].......,,,,,,

She finally desided to give her a little gas [pedal]. It would have
been a great video.

She rev'd her up to about 4 grand and dumped the clutch and
stood on the pedal. She did a fantasic burn and kept going.

It took a few times to shift gears smoothly. You should have seen
her smile, she loved to drive that Nova !! She's been a Hot Rodder
every since, and endured my love of cars, TRI-5's, Vettes, a Z-28
and the Nova, miss that Nova..

Word from the Wise, Get your S.O. [significant other] Involved,

Keep us posted on your SWAP.....

Michael....

I would laugh, but I know what it was like when I first started driving the '70. Never really had a problem with stalling, or not shifting smoothe. But I would give it some throttle and let the clutch out too fast. I had the car bucking like a bronco a few times. :sign0020:

Now that I can drive one half way well I won't have it any other way. :happy0030:
 
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