Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 103 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1957chevy said:
Thanks, what's it from? Pages 455 through 469 (or is it 470) from what manual? Just curious.
It's from an old Motor's Repair Manual published in 1959...

Is the firing order correct? I know there's some controversy about the firing order as published in the shop manual.
I guess you're asking about the position of the wires in the distributor and not the firing order 18436572, that's where I've always found them on old Chevy engines...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
Most all Chevy V-8's are the same firing order. 18436572. #1 is usually the front wire to the left side of the cap unless someone didnot reinstall the distributor in the original position. Left side cylinders are front to rear 1,3,5,7 and right side are 2,4,6,8. The sides are determined from the drivers seat of a vehicle while crankshaft rotation is from in front of the engine.
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
A few years ago I did a cam, lifters, and timing chain with gears at work. When I installed the dist I reached in the window and tapped the key and the engine fired right up. My supervisor looked at me and said "just lucky". I've always felt that it was skill to be able to do that. I don't work for him any more.
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,678 Posts
I agree with you Dave it ain't "just luck" when you've been taught to do something, whether by someone or just through everyday experiences.
My Dad was a shop foreman and I spent a lot of time around a shop growing up. I picked up a lot of stuff that I had forgotten due to not using it, but now that I've been hangin out around you guys a lot of it seems to be coming back. Hope it don't go away when I need it, (you know what they say when you start getting older)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Hey guys...I was wondering if anyone knew if the 265 can be bored 30's over.
I want to keep it all stock if possible but if it needs it i just want to know if its possible. I had some ridges at the top of a few cylinders that i removed and I am going to have it hot tanked and magnafluxed for cracks. I'm going to have the crank journals checked to see if I can use it again and just replace the all the bearings. Any info would help.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Hey 55 hard top! The 265, and other earlier engines were blessed with generous cylinder wall thickness. The 350's etc employ "thin wall casting techniques" which saves weight and material but can limit what can be done, machine wise, once the engine becomes tired. The 265 with a bore of 3.750" can indeed be bored to +.030. Or to +.060, +.090 and it can go to +.125" if you really want to. With a +.125 over bore you are looking at 3.875", the bore of a 283. Since the stroke of the 265 and 283 are the same at 3.000", the +.125 bore in the 265 will yield 283 CID. The 283 can likewise be bored +.125" to 4.000" giving you the infamous 301. The Z28 of '67-'69 used the 4.000" bore of the 327 (350 also) and the 3.000" stroke crank from the 283. This gave the Z28 the advertised 302 CID engine. The 350 engines of the mid '70's and later are the thin wall beasts and can "ususally" only be bored to +.030". To bore them more than this, the block should be "sonic checked" to determine wall thickness. Wow---probably more than you wanted to know but I guess I just got wound up a little! I love this stuff!! Bill's 56
 
1 - 20 of 103 Posts
Top