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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening all
I ordered a TKX which has just arrived. In addition to the trans I ordered the full install kit to include the clutch assembly and the hydraulic bearing setup.
My intention was obviously to switch to the hydraulic setup however after looking the equipment over I didn’t like the mounting options therefore am electing to keep the mechanical clutch setup and also keeping the 10.5” clutch setup.
I have a very mild 327 and removed a 4 speed.
I’m open to any and all comments on my plan.
Thanks
338648
 

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what was so bad about the hydraulic clutch mounting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what was so bad about the hydraulic clutch mounting?
I will post some pictures of it later today.
I did not like the way the master cylinder in reservoir fit on the firewall.
I also did not like the angle of the push rod for the master cylinder the way it would hook up to the pedal.
 

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I will post some pictures of it later today.
I did not like the way the master cylinder in reservoir fit on the firewall.
I also did not like the angle of the push rod for the master cylinder the way it would hook up to the pedal.
Take a look at the Modern Driveline hyd. unit I used it when I had a t56 in my car but if the mechanical linkage works I'd probably use it also. With the hyd. setup I never felt that I could leave the throttle to the mat & grab a gear as I liked to do with muncie's & mechanical linkage. Really like the looks of that trans hopes it shifts as well as advertised I'm trying to convince a friend to buy one for his 502 powered 70 chevelle currently running a super T10. He doesn't treat it as I would or it would already be in pieces.
 

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Good evening all
I ordered a TKX which has just arrived. In addition to the trans I ordered the full install kit to include the clutch assembly and the hydraulic bearing setup.
My intention was obviously to switch to the hydraulic setup however after looking the equipment over I didn’t like the mounting options therefore am electing to keep the mechanical clutch setup and also keeping the 10.5” clutch setup.
I have a very mild 327 and removed a 4 speed.
I’m open to any and all comments on my plan.
Thanks View attachment 338648
Keep us updated on the install. I'm especially interested whether you have to cut up the trans. tunnel. Looking to do this swap next winter. Thanks.

Larry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Here are some photos of the hydraulic system I bought. It was difficult to get accurate photos of the angle the slave cylinder would be at if placed in the locations the instructions say to use. Further the firewall is not flat in that area and spacers would look obnoxious.

This location also put the unit very close to the headers. Heat kills everything and I didn’t think this was a good idea.

The other option is to move the unit to the other side of the brake booster. I don’t like the angle the push rod would connect to the pedal and the various degrees the rod would move on during operation would creat excessive wear.

I also did not like the pedal position for the returned clutch pedal. I have also attached photos. The pivot bolt (as sent in the kit) hits the brake li switch bracket preventing the pedal from a full return. Either the bracket or bolt could be modified but I still don’t like it. I want the pedal in the full return position as they are supposed to look.

I will keep everyone posted as I go. I will also try to answer everyone’s questions if there are any.
I will also take plenty of photos.
Thanks
Nick

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I agree with 56LS406 regarding the mechanical clutch linkage. I'v had four '55 Chevys and all have had manual transmissions. The mechanical linkage is very reliable and positive. If you're using the existing bell housing and have the mechanical linkage I'd continue to use it as is.
 
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