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1956 4dr Wagon. 2009 Corvette
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I rebuilt my entire front end and went with CPP +5 upper control arms. I am trying to do a very base alignment setting in order to get it down the street for a real alignment when the weather breaks. I have positive camber on both sides. Very slight on left side and just a tad more on the right. I just started messing with it but for now I have almost maxed out the number of spacers I can fit in. I’ll look at it closer tonight but what are your thoughts? I can’t really say where the camber was before the overhaul. Tires are not worn bad though. Right now I am only using a small level that fits just right across the face of the wheel where the hubcap sits.
 

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My fix:
Score some standard grade 8 bolts in the length required, weld a tab on the bolt head so it will not turn in the frame.
 

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1956 4dr Wagon. 2009 Corvette
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Discussion Starter #5
Good news updates. Good weather day here in MI. Was able to get the car off the lift and outside to roll around a bit, try out the new power steering and settle the suspension. Was able to obtain a slight bit of negative camber on both sides. The right side took 5 large shims but they fit and by my level, put it in slight negative camber. Hopefully will set to zero when aligned.
I did a little thinking and noticed that the 65 year old rear springs have some sag to them - well a lot... I used a jack at the rear and leveled the car by raising the rear just enough to put the car at a zero bubble or level. Just raising the rear of the car to level provided even more negative camber up front. I will be replacing the rear springs before the alignment. Still not sure why I ended up with all the positive camber buy I feel comfortable that a good alignment will be possible now.


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Better to add a lot of shims than run out, which is a far more common problem. Those CPP control arms probably have offset shafts which will give you more camber. Looks like you have a little more wiggle room on the driver side.
 

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Cocke County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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You may want to adjust the caster at the same time if you aren't already.
As for why? Maybe your car got the recommended frame "stretching" to fix the problem and wouldn't have needed the +5 arms? That's how mine is. I "stretched" the frame myself and maybe went a little too far. It worked out though with a lot of shims and the nuts at their limit. I could add longer bolts if needed.
If I recall correctly, only the lower arms take a beating when hitting potholes and such, the uppers will still be OK with the longer bolts.
 

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1956 4dr Wagon. 2009 Corvette
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Discussion Starter #8
Interesting and good info. I’ll have to do some research and figure out how to get a basic caster setting. Thanks
 

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Car should be @ ride height, vehicle weight on the tires before the A-arm cross shaft bolts are tightened.
If you have installed the recommended .9 taller upper BJ's which will relocate the front roll center under the vehicle center & alter the camber curve in bump & droop to enhance handling then use different camber settings. LF +1/2*, RF +1/4*.
Luck
 

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I have installed the same arms on two different cars both had the same results needing additional shims to get to 0 camber one required quite a number more than the other likely just difference in 65 year old frames. Both were able to be aligned using specs. listed on the site when installing aftermarket Power Steering (CPP 500 box or others). Great improvement in steering feel on both cars.
 

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1956 Chevy 210 2dr sedan
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Just curious Jfiely, did you loosen the cross shaft bolts when you installed the a-arms? I have the same CPP a-arms and I loosened the bolts before install. Then I tightened them once the car was on the ground. CPP used loc-tight on the treads. I actually used the previous hardware and lock washers on the cross shafts.
 

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I've run into the opposite issue, and removing all shims still wasn't enough. Those were very tough fixes as it required cutting and welding the mounting points further out to fix the issue.
 

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1956 4dr Wagon. 2009 Corvette
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Discussion Starter #13
Just curious Jfiely, did you loosen the cross shaft bolts when you installed the a-arms? I have the same CPP a-arms and I loosened the bolts before install. Then I tightened them once the car was on the ground. CPP used loc-tight on the treads. I actually used the previous hardware and lock washers on the cross shafts.
Yes, everything loose then tightened with wheels on the floor. I also noticed that the bolts were tightened and had to be loosened. Thanks
 

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1956 4dr Wagon. 2009 Corvette
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Discussion Starter #14
Update. I installed new rear springs this weekend. Raised the back in almost 2 inches. Had to moved to camber around again. Got the alignment set up using a level and tape measure. Car drives like I suppose it would have when new, what a difference. So I have replaced or rebuilt everything in the suspension minus the rear shocks which seemed to be working fine for now. The PS makes all the difference in the world. Now new tires and a real alignment.
 
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