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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know the trunk seal gets glued to the lid on a 55. I also know there are many different opinions of how it gets oriented. I have seen the tech sheets of the big suppliers also. But......
I was wondering if I could lay my seal like I show in the picture and glue the top surface and glue a length about 6-8 inches at a time and close the lid to locate the seal to the lid and follow the same procedure until I get all the way around.

Am I adding to the confusion here?

I know some just glue it to the body like I show in the picture but I would rather have it on the lid.

Any suggestions? Thanks


Don
 

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The seal goes on the lid not the opening. You'll have problems if you do it the way you're proposing.

The are diagrams of how the seal is oriented on both Danchuk and Eckler's sites.
 

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I highly suggest you get a couple of friends to help you remove the trunk lid. First mark the bolts on the hinges. Then lay the lid upside down and glue the gasket about 8 -10 inches at a time. Use a good quality glue like 3M Super Gasket and Weatherstrip Adhesive (don't get in a hurry). Make sure you put it on the right sides toward the lid and body. Let it set overnight, then re-install it carefully observing the marks you made on the hinges. Be sure you don't contact the edges and chip the paint. It will not close all tight right away, so back off the closing adjustment to allow the gasket to settle down. Then every couple of days adjust it a little closer. Eventually it will close all the way. Good luck and be patient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I knew I did not explain this well. I am not gluing it to the body. I was suggesting using the idea of gluing the top flat section shown in the sample picture. Then closing the lid and transferring the seal to the lid.
Working opposite directions about 8" at a time. On the straight areas maybe a foot at a time.
The idea being that the groove in the seal will be located exactly on the body lip where it belongs.


Don
 

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I did not remove any thing . Mine is a '57 and I had the factory holes and seal with plastic pins.
The trick is to apply cement to trunk lid and seal and let dry per instructions, 15 to 20 min. and then match the two together. Works like contact cement.
Jim
By the way, your pic looks wrong to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got it done.

Thanks
 

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Did you take video? Would like to see how you did it. bowtie-trifive :gba:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you take video? Would like to see how you did it. bowtie-trifive :gba:
No I didn't. I thought about it after I was half way done. I was so caught up in how it was working I was always looking for the big "show stopper". But it worked out well and only took about a half hour.

The seal lines up perfect on the body lip and the trunk lid closes normal. I think I created a new process to help a poor design.

Now I will try something new with the fuzzies. They leave a lot to be desired also.

Don
 

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The idea being that the groove in the seal will be located exactly on the body lip where it belongs.
But where you show it is not where it belongs. The seal "seals" against the flat bottom of the u channel in the opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
But where you show it is not where it belongs. The seal "seals" against the flat bottom of the u channel in the opening.
But I do not want to trap water in that flat channel. I believe that flat channel should allow the water to run in like it is going to anyhow. Then flow down and out the bottom without getting trapped under the seal.

There is no way that water can get into my trunk. It would have to flow "up" over the body lip and get around the compressed seal then flow down on the other side.

I will give it a water test when I get it back together and move it outside sometime.


Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
But where you show it is not where it belongs. The seal "seals" against the flat bottom of the u channel in the opening.
There are several versions of trunk seals on the market. I guess if you work with them on a regular basis you can select the one that works best for you.

Looks like some seals may contact the bottom channel. The one I have does not except for the trunk pan area. The body lip at the trunk pan area is only about 3/8" high vs. the rest of the lip up on the quarters that is between 1/2-5/8.

I have both diagrams here; The first from Danchuk and the second from Eastcoast chevy. The third picture is mine.

The first, Danchuk seal does not even show a "half circle" channel. But it may compress enough to seal the U-channel on the tailpan but I doubt it will compress enough 1/2-5/8 to seal the U-channels up on the quarter panels.

The second, East coast chevy diagram may touch the bottom channel if the "half circle" portion is deep enough. Doesn't look like it though.

The third picture is the seal I have. As you can see it will not compress enough to seal the bottom channels up on the quarter panels which are 1/2-5/8 high. And the seal I have has a much deeper "half circle" channel than what East coast chevy shows.

I am starting to see why so many people have problems with trunk seals.

And if you are going to show a diagram, I hope it is representative of the one you sell.

Thought I would share this so when someone has a seal problem it may not be "operator error".

Don
 

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