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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any ideas on putting a fusible link in the positive cable running from the battery located in the trunk to the starter? Solenoids would require a seperate wire from the alternator to the battery. What are your ideas?
 

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I have a battery disconnect switch between the battery and starter, but not a fuse. I do have a fuse in my primary wire (at the battery) that runs to my main post on the ignition switch, it's a 60amp, but low and behold, as smart as I thought this idea was, I've popped that fuse a couple times (during hot starts, pulling lots of amps) so since it's actually not necessary and everything is on it's own fuse, I saw no harm in bypassing it since I was the one who installed it in the first place. Also, other than a disconnect switch, I'm not aware of any fuse capable of pulling the amps on a #1 or #2 cable running all the way to the front, which means it's going to draw more amps during start-up, that's my experiance, good luck.
 

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Been running them for years. I use a cutoff switch and a trickle charger for years. Never had a issue. Tech did give me a little grief when I did not have my battery box in the car.

If you do want a high amp fuse take a look here.

http://store.solar-electric.com/infubr.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Trunk mounted battery

Thanks for the tips. I will ensure that the cable is well insulated in specific areas. I am planning on using the Double OO Welding cable. It is more flexible and can make the bends a lot easier.
Thanks again.
 
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