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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I'm starting to put things back together on this old 265 4-barrel. The original carb was missing, and after sitting for 45 years in my Dad's garage, here is what I had to work with:



Notice tube from distributor to missing carb. Also notice tube from exhaust manifold to missing carb.

Found three Rochester 4-barrel carbs in the back of my dad's garage (none original to this car) and a mechanic friend put the best one back together. But, here's the problem I now face--- there is no provision on the carb for the vaccum line for the distributor in that location. Here's a shot of the new carb on the manifold:



Close-up of the carb and tube end:



Here's a shot of the other two junk carbs, but look at the bottom of the carbs... the one on the right has a square threaded plug, and the one on the left has a 1/4 male slip fitting. Both appear to be in the same place that the original distributor tube ended up. Both are in sad shape, and the butterfly valves in those carbs are totally frozen, even after soaking in solvent.



So..... do I need an adapter plate for the "good" carb? Run the distributor line to the PVC port on the back of this carb (both the bad carbs have plugs in this location). Other suggestions? Not having the original carb on hand, I'm just guessing at this point what that tube hooked up to.


Also, the exhaust tube to the choke was bent and cracked at it's mounting point when I got the car, it snapped off the manifold with just a touch. The remains of the tube are still in the manifold. Was this line press-fitted in place to the exhaust manifold, or threaded? The tube is (now) longer than needed, seeming to mean the choke on the original carb was higher than this one is from the manifold. (am I missing an adapter plate for the distibutor vaccum line port, which would raise the original carb?) I figured I better ask before I drill out the hole and go the wrong direction to hook up a new line. Here' a close-up of the area in question:



Lots of questions for such a simple problem. Thanks for any pointers on this.:p3:

My shop manual didn't really have a good picture of what this distributor line hooked to. Rats! I was REALLY looking forward to getting the old girl running today.....
 

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you can remove the exhaust manifold and drive out the broken piece of pipe. New replacements are available.

As far as vacuum goes see if there is a port in the bottom of the front or rear of the carb you intend to use. If so just route it to the distributor, you can use hose. If none is there they make a hollow carb mounting stud that is commonly used in one of the rear carb mounting holes in the manifold for a vacuum source to supply the distributor and powerglide transmission on some model. I have it on my 1960 Corvette


Don
 

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As you can see, one of your "other" carbs has a pipe plug in the base plate at the approximate location where your vacuum tube would go. I guess it's possible to use that base plate, but I woudn't bother. There should be another vacuum port somewhere, or you could drill and tap one in the manifold.

You can only use that hollow stud that wraplock suggests if the hole for the stud extends into the manifold passage, many have blind holes.

If the hole in the manifold is the same size as the choke tube, just pull the old piece out and slide your tube into the hole. It's not a tight fit.
 

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get a gallon of Evapo-Rust from your parts store, lots of them carry the stuff now. take the carbs apart enough to access the insides, base, body and top, and dunk the pieces in it. You will be really surprised at how it comes out. I did it to a couple of single bbls and a 57 clock and was amazed.
 

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I am also with every body else. there should be another source for ported vacuum on that carb. if all else fails, hook it up to full vacuum on the manifold or other port on the carb for the time being to get the motor started.
 

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The broken off choke tube in the exhaust manifold should not be more than 3/8 inch long. Many times you can take a self taping screw and screw into it and it will turn as you do this, then it will come out. If not take a drill that is the same size as the OD of the tube and drill it out. The inside end of the broken off tube is maybe 1/2 inch down. It goes into a heat chamber cast into the manifold. THIS IS COMPLETLY DIFFERENT THEN THE STYLE USED IN 57 IN THE RAMS HORN MANIFOLD. You can not just drive it in further, you need to get it out.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, gang. :tu Drilled out the tube remnant left in the exhaust manifold, and took the carb down to the auto parts and got the pieces needed to re-route the distributor vacuum to where the PVC valve on the carb was located. Used some fittings on the carb, and 3/16" rubber hose snubbed up to a shortened portion of the distributor's steel vacuum line.

Should work, at least on paper.:sign0020:

In other news, I went down to pick up the radiator just after I posted this thread. I had taken it down last week to have it pressure checked so I didn't have any surprises when I get the engine running. Good thing I did, it was full of pinholes scattered all over the core from sitting full of water for so long. It looked like an aquarium’s "air fizzle rock" in the guy's work tank.

There goes another week's allowance for getting the old girl going. :banghead:


Oh well.... better now than in the middle of Resume Speed, Nowheresville, eh?
 

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I am also with every body else. there should be another source for ported vacuum on that carb. if all else fails, hook it up to full vacuum on the manifold or other port on the carb for the time being to get the motor started.
All vacuum sources used in these older engines were full manifold. Ported vacuum arrived on the scene when the emissions standards were imposed on Detroit in the 60's and later.

paul
 

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Thanks, gang. :tu Drilled out the tube remnant left in the exhaust manifold, and took the carb down to the auto parts and got the pieces needed to re-route the distributor vacuum to where the PVC valve on the carb was located. Used some fittings on the carb, and 3/16" rubber hose snubbed up to a shortened portion of the distributor's steel vacuum line.

Should work, at least on paper.:sign0020:

In other news, I went down to pick up the radiator just after I posted this thread. I had taken it down last week to have it pressure checked so I didn't have any surprises when I get the engine running. Good thing I did, it was full of pinholes scattered all over the core from sitting full of water for so long. It looked like an aquarium’s "air fizzle rock" in the guy's work tank.

There goes another week's allowance for getting the old girl going. :banghead:


Oh well.... better now than in the middle of Resume Speed, Nowheresville, eh?
Your getting there, baby steps :anim_25:
 

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Thanks, gang. :tu Drilled out the tube remnant left in the exhaust manifold, and took the carb down to the auto parts and got the pieces needed to re-route the distributor vacuum to where the PVC valve on the carb was located. Used some fittings on the carb, and 3/16" rubber hose snubbed up to a shortened portion of the distributor's steel vacuum line.
You should be able to find a nipple fitting to fit the distributor.

paul
 

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🐔County, TN. 55 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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sucks sad part is I only ever hit new just get caught when one is opened back up sometimes
The ONLY way to stop it is to get verticalscope to get rid of the stupid suggested threads, and I don't think that's going to happen. The more posts, relevant or not, the more money they make.
 

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Your old "junk" carbs can be fixed. I have removed many stuck throttle shafts from carbs that have been discarded. The 3 you show in the photo are most likely one of the originals. The high choke carb you're using is at best a 283 carb, could be from a 327 or 348, if the butterflies are larger than the holes in the manifold. The jetting on a 56 265 carb is different from a 57 283 even though the venturii are the same. The vacuum demand is different, Yes the 283 will run, but why not make it run its best.
 
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